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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Before I post more pics and the more detailed installation text I thought I would check to see if there is interest first from the board. And, it may have been posted and I missed it so please let me know if it's already been done so i don't repeat it with more pic's and an even longer text post!

This install makes the V1, which is mounted in the traditional location above the rear view mirror, totally stealth in terms of its display and audio alerts. :)

Brief summary - will post more pic's and a longer write-up later if warranted. :lightbulb:

I was not aware of the remote audio adapter for the V1 until I got my V1 and read the manual. Page 25, option #2 shows the remote audio adapter and concealed display (one board member showed a nice install of the concealed dispay in the ashtray). So I ordered the remote audio adapter (already rec'd the V1 and concealed display).

Remote Audio Adapter
audio remote mounted.jpg

Concealed display with ashtray cover open
Con disp frm driver.jpg

The remote audio adpater allows you to turn the V1 on and off, and adjust the volume of the alerts, and the alerts sound through the little remote box that is part of the audio remote (and you can plug another remote speaker into this and further move the alerts to a more concealed location).

I wired direct power from the cigarette lighter down in the passenger footwell - not the overhead console.

Cover in place
Cover.jpg

Cover off after removing the five screws that hold it in place
cover off.jpg

Power spliced in on green wire with black stripe
power splice.jpg

V1 Power module fits in an empty slot and will tuck out of way in here
where to put the power module.jpg

I mounted the concealed display in the ashtray (per the suggestion of another board member - thank you!) - I modified that area to allow the wiring to the display to connect to the display through the side of the inner frame of the ashtray holder so the display is recessed perfectly in the ashtray area. (Can be done with a drill or dremel tool. When the ashtray insert is re-stalled if you take the remote display out some day you will not see the modifications.)


Concealed Display - you can positiion it at just about any angle that will work for you one you create the opening on the left side where the cable exits.
Con disp frm driver.jpg
(note - black plastic wire tie is not left in place when done :))

I mounted the remote audio on the left side of the center console area - about inline with the shifter - but on vertical surface of the console so on/off - volume control is facing up and is right by my right hand when you shift. You can mount this remote audio anywhere - this is where I'm trying it first.

audio remote mounted.jpg

I mounted the V1 above the rear mirror as most people have done.

This pic is from the passenger seat - the V1 is mounted above the rear view mirror. Note the way the power cord is routed on top of the V1 and under the clip that holds the V1 - the cord is then dressed directly into the headliner. This is the end of the new 15ft cord noted below.
V1 cable.jpg

I bought a 15 ft. long black telephone cable, $6 from Radio Shack (note - this is a straight through wiring, not a cross over like some computer modem telephone cables) - this connects to the remote audio adapter which is on the left side of the console as noted (the ones supplied by Valentine are 8ft long). So this 15 ft cable is dressed along the headliner, down the A pillar, under the dash via the cover that is removed to get access to the power, and then under the center console to reach the remote audio adapter.


The remote audio adapter then connects to the power module with its own telephone cable - so two cables are plugged into this remote audio adapter. The concealed display also connects to the power module with its own telephone cable. So no direct power is plugged into the V1 - it gets its power from the remote audio adapter - that's why the remote adapater can turn the V1 on and off and why two cables are connected to the remote audio adapter - power goes in from the power module, and then is switched on/off and routed to the V1 via the 15ft cable. The concealed display, when plugged in, tells the V1 its there so the V1 shuts off its own display on the V1 so it is stealth. The remote audio delivers the alerts so the V1 is also now in audio stealth and does not sound. The V1 just sits like a dark brick above the mirror - it does flicker when turned on so you know it's working.


Except for 2 inches of wires that lead to the remote audio adapter on the left side console all wiring is hidden.

The carpet section under the console slides back about 1/2 inch and then pops out. Three metal clips hold it in place.

This picture shows the carpet section flipped over so you can see the clips.
backside of carpet slide.jpg

Wires are "snaked" under the center instrument area - not hard - used a long plastic wire tie - can use a straight solid wire...you slide the snake under the console, tape the telephone wire one at a time onto the snake, and carefully pull the wire to the other side. Takes about 2 minutes per cable.

Right side with all three cables coming out - two on their way to the power module (one from the audio adapter, one from the concealed display), and one coming in from the V1 above.

all 3 wires on right out.jpg


Left side with the cable from the V1 and the cable from the power module
wires for RAD left.jpg

With some work, this audio remote adapter or just its switch might be mounted in the panel below the light switch where some board members have installed the Blinder LED and on/off switch...it will be easy to move later if this proves to be a better design.

Hope this helps someone who is considering a detector but does not want all the lights and buzzers going off so noticeably. The concealed display will also keep people behind you from seeing your detector and hitching a ride. I like the remote audio's easy access to mute it or turn it up or down as well. :1zhelp:

The remote audio adapter - one more time...
audio remote mounted.jpg

Total install time was about 2.5 hours the first time - would estimate about 1.5 hours or less now that I know the flow.

Bob
 

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Pics please. Sounds intersting, but hard (for me) to visualize.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
drewzMMM said:
I would blow up my M by accident if I tried this...
Is that more fun than doing it on purpose? :blabla:

Seriously, it's not that hard - if you or someone else wants to tackle this I can supply more detailed information on the install. It does seem to work really well - you can leave the ashtray cover closed unless you get an alert, and then just pop it open to see the display while you need to.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Indy_M5 said:
thanks for the pics!
You're welcome. There may be a better quasi-concealed place to mount the "concealed display" that looks more factor like. I want to live with the car and this install for awhile before moving to that step. I found a picture of a car that had it mounted in the A-pillar headliner material...

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Zeke013 said:
Does the Jaric Stealth adapter not work on the e60?
The E60 / M5 is not offered on the selection list to order this unit from StealthOne - it appears to interface to the older display units - it's a neat idea for sure - perhaps they will come out with an update sometime in the future.

Bob
 

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Great install. I looked at all the options presented on the board and I went with your variant with a twist. I used a ultra-flat telephone cable that literally took 3 minutes to run around the window, a frame, and dash (* brand to follow). The cable was almost too thin. Connected as per your recommendations which I really liked because:

1) I didn't have to worry about messing with the rain sensor (I had it all opened up and felt odd about it)
2) Was able to t-splice into that cig lighter which does away will all of my concerns about inadequate guage wire and power (supply and overload).
3) If something did cause problem in the installation, I don't think BMWNA would be able to attribute an electrical problem to my install since I am on the cig circuit.
4) Having the power down low made the concealed display a cinch and I am working out a place for the audio adapter.
5) Virtually nothing (2 inches on the V1.. .2-3 inches on the concealed) exposed.

To run the concealed, I pulled the driver cover and snaked up the steering wheel space to get the display on the oil display side. I just too the car for a quick drive and this location is VERY natural. Close enough to catch peripheral vision and to quickly look down for bogeys. If you have not tried this location with the concealed, give it a shot, it is very effective.

Thanks again for the tips and pics, you description on how to remove the carpet section probably saved me a trip to "parts".
 

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Some pics of my install. I am trying to locate the ultra-flat wire in black but since it was SOOO easy to install, I didn't mind having to do it again and just ran the white for now (i'm an immediate gratification type of guy).

The wire is so thin, you can basically "floss" it through the panels.

Light blue lines are the wire path... red lines / circles are where wires are either completely exposed, or to show where I just have not completely pushed in the wire yet.

Note: all pictures are with the radar completely powered up. And it is completely visible when driving (concealed display)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
TireBurn said:
Some pics of my install. I am trying to locate the ultra-flat wire in black but since it was SOOO easy to install, I didn't mind having to do it again and just ran the white for now (i'm an immediate gratification type of guy).

The wire is so thin, you can basically "floss" it through the panels.

Light blue lines are the wire path... red lines / circles are where wires are either completely exposed, or to show where I just have not completely pushed in the wire yet.

Note: all pictures are with the radar completely powered up. And it is completely visible when driving (concealed display)
Tireburn - good alternative here - thanks! Looks like you have a clean install as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
pjconner said:
Thanks for the detailed instructions! I installed my V1 without remote adapter today in about 30 minutes.
Glad it worked out for you - I have installed V1's in all three of my vehicles now - don't leave home without your V1 !!
 

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I love this board... lovelove
 

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Do you think you could take a pic of the V1 behind the mirror on a straight angle, I am trying to get a visual. Thanks!
 
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