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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Can you use the old fashioned manual adjustment type for full anti-glare?
Regards,
Jerry
Old fashioned adjustment won't work, those are special mirrors and the glass I use just won't do it. It's really not a concern.. so far no one has complained about it.

would this work for all e39's? also it will only block laser but not detect it?
Yes pretty much any BMW can have this mod. In some cases we've had to change to an alternate BMW mirror but if you own a E39 your good.
 

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Old fashioned adjustment won't work, those are special mirrors and the glass I use just won't do it. It's really not a concern.. so far no one has complained about it.



Yes pretty much any BMW can have this mod. In some cases we've had to change to an alternate BMW mirror but if you own a E39 your good.
so the mirror face get's changed out but let's say i don't want to hide anything in the headrest or headliner can i just mount it to the window still?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
so the mirror face get's changed out but let's say i don't want to hide anything in the headrest or headliner can i just mount it to the window still?
Sure if that's how you want it installed - the radar detector can be placed anywhere you want it.
 

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V1 Rear View Mirror Mod for the E39 M5 / Headliner / Headrest

Decided to have my rear view mirror mod'd by Scott Wheeler (DFW Auto Club), get the remote audio adapter, and look into hiding the V1 into the headliner. Seeing as I live in VA where detectors are illegal, mounting on the windshield wasn't an option. Not everything went as planned, but in the end everything is hidden.

1) Rear View Mirror Mod - WIN! I purchased the V1 concealed color display on eBay (from fullcolordefense.com), and sent it off with my rear view mirror to Scott for the remote display integration. Scott was very quick with the integration, and let me know the progress of the install every step of the way. I installed the mirror no problem - and it looks AWESOME! Very professionally integrated, and I couldn’t tell where the remote was located in the mirror until I actually turned it on.

2) V1 Headliner Install - FAIL! OK, technically, the V1 did fit in the headliner (even with the RemoteLink), but I could not get the overhead map light unit back in. The map light unit is a little over 1" tall. If it were 1/2" tall or less, the entire V1 would fit nicely. As I read a little closer (and put a number of posts together), it appears the the V1 WILL fit in the headliner, but it'd have to sit behind the map light (not good), AND you'd have to get rid of the HomeLink.

Would be nice if there was a much smaller (low profile?) map light, as I really liked the idea of putting the V1 in the headliner. So instead....

3) V1 Headrest Install - WIN! I followed Scott's post, but did a few mods along the way. I also mounted the remote audio adapter in a real easy place to reach (console storage tray).

NOTE: I found out that while the stock phone cables that came with the V1 are of excellent quality, the 8' length just wasn't long enough (I tried mounting under the dash area, but it really wasn't convenient). So I opted to get longer phone cable. Beware; not all phone cables work, but primarily because of the crappy quality. I did my research, and found really good cables (the less resistance the better), the right length I needed, and with RJ11 connectors. Look for "modem" or "DSL" cabling, such as "Belkin High-Speed Internet Modem Cable, 15 feet, F3L900-15-ICE-S" (the ones I got).

Here are pics/details.


V1 Remote Display (this particular one from fullcolordefense.com) integrated within the rear view mirror.


V1 in the headliner.


I actually got the V1 to fit with the RemoteLink back in place.


But as you can see, the map light won't fit back in. Soooo......


Removal of the leather cover from the rear seat headrest.


Close up of the hooks on the bracket within the headrest, and plastic ridge sewn into the leather headrest.




After the headrest cover was off, I put the headrest back in it's mounts, put a level up, and drew a line where the V1 would go.




Remove the 2 retainer clips on the underside of the headrest, and the metal mounts slide right out.


Remove the internal plastic support.


A lot better than hand cutting, the electric knife made quick work (thanks Scott!).


I cut the plastic support bracket just short of the actual width of the V1, and then notched out the area for the V1. It fit nice and snug.


V1 mounted. I decided to remove both the front and back lenses from the V1 (removal of 4 screws on the bottom of the V1). I've seen others suggest removing the cover as well, but I didn't really see a need to.


I carefully cut out only the necessary foam so that the center piece would be level with the rest of the headrest. I actually put the leather cover back on, but it wasn't as level as I'd hoped. So I took the cover back off, and adding multiple strips of duct tape (both vertically and horizontally). That did the trick.



I installed the headrest, and routed the cable as others have, with the exception that I routed it to the center console, where I mounted the Remote Audio Adapter.


Remote Audio Adapter installed in center console storage bin. I had to remove the center console (plenty of posts on this already), and notched out the back of the storage bin to accommodate the cable.


All hidden.

Cheers! :cool:
 

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Very nice job! Thanks for sharing!
 
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