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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Crew.

As some may remember I wrote a review on the UUC Evo 3 shifter a few weeks ago. That thread is located here:

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=48168&highlight=uuc+evo

At the time I was not able to get the DSSR installed because I was having issues with the clip near the transmission. So - I drove the car with the stock shifter rod in place for a few weeks until I could get time to work on the DSSR install. This was actually informative as it allowed me to see the difference between the stock rod and the DSSR with the Evo 3 shifter.

The Install:

The clip near the tranny is a PIA to get off - especially using just ramps to get access under the car. I used Dave Z.'s trick of using the glove to push on the clip. I believed Dave! Yes - it finally came off - but I also used a screwdriver to pry open the clip somewhat. Some may come off easier than mine - but just be prepared and patient as it may take a little time. You can see the clip - and you can get access to it - so this is a DIY for those so inclined.

Once that clip is off - it is all of 20 minutes to get the rest of the rod installed - very easy.

The fit is PERFECT. Extremely close tolerances. One wonders why BMW didn't design the rod this way to begin with - it makes so much SENSE. When you compare the stock shift rod to the DSSR - well there really is no comparison. The design and build of each are at opposite ends of the spectrum.

The difference between the stock shifter and the Evo 3 was night and day. The difference with the DSSR installed is not quite as dramatic - but still a big difference. Shifting is even MORE precise and very solid. The shifts shoot from gate to gate with more precision and accuracy - it is an improvement you can definitely feel.

In conclusion - I would not hesitate to recommend this product. Anyone getting the Evo 3 without the DSSR is missing out on even more precision. I am glad I installed the DSSR as it makes a noticable difference in the shifting feel and accuracy. :byebye:
 

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I agree, the combo is a "must do" mod, night and day improvement. No rattles either!
 

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The EVO3 /DSSR unit is one of the best mod's for the money I've made.
The fit and finsih of this combo is far from none the best I've seen.
I highly recommend this setup for anyone tired of the notchy stock shifter.



Wrightsville Beast said:
Hey Crew.

As some may remember I wrote a review on the UUC Evo 3 shifter a few weeks ago. That thread is located here:

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=48168&highlight=uuc+evo

At the time I was not able to get the DSSR installed because I was having issues with the clip near the transmission. So - I drove the car with the stock shifter rod in place for a few weeks until I could get time to work on the DSSR install. This was actually informative as it allowed me to see the difference between the stock rod and the DSSR with the Evo 3 shifter.

The Install:

The clip near the tranny is a PIA to get off - especially using just ramps to get access under the car. I used Dave Z.'s trick of using the glove to push on the clip. I believed Dave! Yes - it finally came off - but I also used a screwdriver to pry open the clip somewhat. Some may come off easier than mine - but just be prepared and patient as it may take a little time. You can see the clip - and you can get access to it - so this is a DIY for those so inclined.

Once that clip is off - it is all of 20 minutes to get the rest of the rod installed - very easy.

The fit is PERFECT. Extremely close tolerances. One wonders why BMW didn't design the rod this way to begin with - it makes so much SENSE. When you compare the stock shift rod to the DSSR - well there really is no comparison. The design and build of each are at opposite ends of the spectrum.

The difference between the stock shifter and the Evo 3 was night and day. The difference with the DSSR installed is not quite as dramatic - but still a big difference. Shifting is even MORE precise and very solid. The shifts shoot from gate to gate with more precision and accuracy - it is an improvement you can definitely feel.

In conclusion - I would not hesitate to recommend this product. Anyone getting the Evo 3 without the DSSR is missing out on even more precision. I am glad I installed the DSSR as it makes a noticable difference in the shifting feel and accuracy. :byebye:
 

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dmz said:
I agree, best mod for the money so far.
I totally agree its an excellent mod. I did the Evo 3 shifter about 8 months ago. I added the dssr about three weeks ago. It seems that shifting from first to second gear is quite a bit harder you have to shift it like you mean it. otherwise it doesn't want to go in gear. Also Ive had the handle come off a few times while shifting.
Boz
 

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Question on the EVO3--my car has a UUC SSK installed in Dec 2002 by previous owner. I am thinking that was probably a previous version (EVO2?). Anyone have any knowledge of the difference? The one I have is great in my view.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Boz,

That funny - because I seem to experience the exact opposite now on my 1-2 shifts. :confused2 It fires out of first and into second like its on autopilot - faster and smoother than before....
 

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Boz M5 said:
It seems that shifting from first to second gear is quite a bit harder you have to shift it like you mean it. otherwise it doesn't want to go in gear.
I have the same thing...2nd gear needs to be firmly engaged, I've had it actually pop out of 2nd twice. Evo3/DSSR combo was installed a couple months ago, so I thought it would work itself out over time, but it is still the same. All other gears feel great, excellent even...but 2nd gear is a pain, and a real bummer when running up (or down) through the gears. My mechanic says that since this unit doesn't have any adjustments (the ball is fixed) there's really nothing for him to play with.

Rob, any ideas here?
 

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LBPDNNM5 said:
Question on the EVO3--my car has a UUC SSK installed in Dec 2002 by previous owner. I am thinking that was probably a previous version (EVO2?). Anyone have any knowledge of the difference? The one I have is great in my view.
From 12/02, it's the EVO2. EVO3 started shipping around 10/03.

The differences between EVO2 and EVO3 for the M5 include:

1) The self-adjusting primary pivot ERK which provides a permanently smoother and more precise action as well as super-aligning the linkage geometry.

2) Full-length interior vibration isolation material.

3) Oversized lower pivot bearings and altered design which aids installation .

4) Change from an aluminum upper sectio to alloy steel with a greater compensatory mass that smooths shifting.

Is it worth changing? That's a question for you to ask yourself, viewed in terms of the costs involved - a new shifter and installation. We do offer a $100 "customer loyalty" rebate program for trade-ups if do choose to get the EVO3.

There is a DSSR available for the EVO2. It's different, but the difference only has to do with the change in the lower pivot bearings. The functionality is the same, but the part is slightly different and comes with different bearing parts that update the lower assembly to an EVO3 style. Price is the same.
 

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buymenow00 said:
I have the same thing...2nd gear needs to be firmly engaged, I've had it actually pop out of 2nd twice. Evo3/DSSR combo was installed a couple months ago, so I thought it would work itself out over time, but it is still the same. All other gears feel great, excellent even...but 2nd gear is a pain, and a real bummer when running up (or down) through the gears. My mechanic says that since this unit doesn't have any adjustments (the ball is fixed) there's really nothing for him to play with.

Rob, any ideas here?
The BMW gearboxes have some variability from car to car. It's not unusual to see one car with a specific type of issue and another with absolutely no (or even opposite) similarity of behavior.

What we have found through the years is that the choice of transmission fluid makes a very big difference. Despite the discussions of "special" fluid that BMW recommends, in all reality the M5 gearbox is in the same design family as the earlier V8 and V12 transmissions and will respond the same way. Our recommendation is to use Redline D4 ATF (the "magic potion" for smoothing out BMW gearboxes) or a 50/50 mix of D4 and Redline MTL. Where there are other good combinations (including some recent ones that I will be trying in my personal car), the Redline products have repeatedly been the best choice in our testing.

- Rob
 

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I just completed an install of an EVO3 and DSSR. (Actually, yesterday- thanks Rob and Arjun)

I thought I would add my two cents- the tips here and elsewhere really helped in the install. Took me 2 hours, and I'd never been under my beast. THis is a one hour or less job for a skilled mechanic (who's done them before) and has a lift. IMHO

The UUC instructions have you remove the carrier. They also have you drop the back of the trans, take off covers, etc. Well, you can't get the shift carrier out without lowering the trans slighty- so (as others have pointed out) we just ignore that part.

The cut off allen wrench is the trick- I wrapped some black tape to make a 'handle' so my fingers had a better purchase. What you have is a 3/4" piece of the allen wrench with tape on all of it except the last 1/8". Then, when you 'load' on the little screw the tape that holds the screw lays nice and flat- some on the screw, some on the 'tape-handle'...

The clips were a PITA, but not impossible. I use nice mechanics gloves nowadays(COSTCO specials)... gloves are cheaper than skin... On BIG TIP (at least I thought so- and folks that have spent time on their back might agree) is that you need to move your body around to get your arms in the best position. I had to rotate through a 360 degree spin under the car to find the position where I could hold the pin AND push the clip on the end of the pin WITHOUT clipping under the yellow washer. (Note here, LOOK at the clip once you think you have it in position- it is possible to think the clip is on correctly, but the yellow plastic shim is not fully under the clip.) Often times the best position to apply force may NOT be the best one to view- grab the parts, scoot around, push it home.

the DSSR is just straight- the factory rod has a 'crook' in it to clear the driveline- you kind of wonder how the straight one will clear, but it does. There were no DSSR instructions with mine, but it looks like there is a difference in the ends of the DSSR with one end having a side cut- mount this end where the flange on the driveline is. (I think they can avoid the crook in the DSSR since the pivot point is moved upwards away from the driveline.)

The fit between the DSSR and the end of the EVO is close tolerance. Like zero. Like tight. It helped having a 12 yr old move the shifter once it was all lined up to slightly pust the bearing and bushings into the fork of the DSSR. Test the two parts on the bench- you'll need to line up both pretty well to get them in. I attached the tranny end of the DSSR first, then pushed that all the way forward (gear 2, 4or 6).. Then I had the helper push the shifter forward- he rotated the shifter as directed (well, this part was fun :)) and then, once aligned, pulled back gently on the shifter to pop the bearing into the DSSR fork.

Believe it or not, I used one single screwdriver for the whole job, plus two allen wrenches (the one supplied got cut down). (My tools were down in the shop and I was too lazy to go get them - I just figured I would stop and walk down when I needed something else.) Getting the old plastic carrier out, prying up the rubber boot, even putting in the circlip snap ring- a screwdriver. (I would heve used a long nose pliers if I had one handy.) Not sure if a mirror is considered a tool, but you cannot do it without one- well, maybe not if you've done a few, but for your first it make all the difference. Steal one from your daughter, wife, or girlfriend, or buy one that clips on and can be adjusted. It REALLY helps to see the front (tranny) clip prior to trying to lay hands on it.

Another pain was getting the rubber boot back correctly- there is an inner boot that fits onto the cup- you really just need to futz with it- push it all the way down and rotate the rubber (kind of rub it around the shifter) to get that inner boot around the cup- then the outside of the boot is just pushed under the metal lip of the tunnel pan.

This is not mechanically difficult- but it is tedious.

Oh, I recommend this as one of those 'big personal impact on how the car feels' upgrades. Shifts are so much more precise feeling.

Hope this helps those that cannot see $300 for someone else to slap this in... :)


Ard
 
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