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Done deal!

Parts received! I fired up the turn-a-matron and made a removal/install tool. Going for it this weekend. Hail Merry
Able to get this done without removing diff or sub-frame. Had to unbolt the driveshaft CV to make room but otherwise went according to plan

Thanks Jed!
 

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Can/has the egg been installed without a special tool or unbolting anything but the front diff mount itself? Looking for least involved install option.... sounds like maybe a rubber mallet does the trick?

Thanks!
 

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I don't recommend it

Can/has the egg been installed without a special tool or unbolting anything but the front diff mount itself? Looking for least involved install option.... sounds like maybe a rubber mallet does the trick?

Thanks!
You will have a great deal of difficulty removing the old/OE bushing with the sub-frame on the car without a proper tool to do so. This is after all a thin aluminum mount and pounding on it with any sort of hammer big enough to remove that bushing is a gamble. Not to mention you will have nowhere to swing it. The bushing can be installed easily by unbolting the rear drive shaft from the diff, loosening the sub-frame mounts and using some clever floor jack work to position things.
 

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Unicorn ordered. Has anyone tried to burn the old bushing out? It looks like the external is rubber? I learned that trick with subframe bushings from a BMW tech. Heat them up until they fall right out.
 

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Unicorn ordered. Has anyone tried to burn the old bushing out? It looks like the external is rubber? I learned that trick with subframe bushings from a BMW tech. Heat them up until they fall right out.
Annealing temp of AL is way lower the burn temp of propane. Don't do it. If you can press the new one in you can pull the old one out no?
 

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Annealing temp of AL is way lower the burn temp of propane. Don't do it. If you can press the new one in you can pull the old one out no?
Actually, without the right press it's hard to get a new OE one in then it is to get the old one out with a bushing press. The egg will slide in with a bit of persuasion w/o a press

But yeah, don't use heat if you can help it
 

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Just looking for an alternative to lowering the subframe. Maybe I’m wrong but it looks like the unicorn doesn’t need to be pressed in? I don’t have a tool specific to the job but have A good collection of bushing removal tools. Hopefully one of them will be close enough. Thanks for the heads up on the torch. I’ll stay away from that option.
 

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Subframe can stay where it is. threaded rod with washers and nuts will get you there in a pinch for getting the old bushing out.

The egg will start to seat without force, a few taps with a dead blow or similar will seat it all the way
 

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You were right. I was able to use my e39 rear ball joint tool to get the job done without lowering the subframe or driveshaft. I lowered the center exhaust support a couple cm's and was able to lower the diff enough to get the socket over the nut. I ground down 2 2" fender washers slightly and with a combination of the sleeves on the tool was able to pull it out. I put the egg in the freezer for a couple hours, greased it up lightly and it went in with a couple of medium taps. I never felt like I was going to break anything. Nice part!

I noticed my old rubber one was bad when looking for an off gas vibration in the drivetrain. Replacing it helped but its not completely fixed. Off gas in gear between 2000-3000 rpm there is a rumble in the mid-rear. It stops when pushing in the clutch. I am thinking driveshaft or center bearing? The guibo looks fine.
 

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I'd check the center exhaust mounts first, especially if they're the original orange ones. CSB makes a higher pitched sound (usually)

d/s usually fails at the u-joint, starts to make a 'tink' sound on slow forward / reverse. Not really noticeable at higher speeds.

YMMV
 

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Can the 2 rear diff bushings be replaced without dropping the diff? I saw a video where this was done with the rear diff removed. I think the right side is more difficult to get to than the left.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Can the 2 rear diff bushings be replaced without dropping the diff? I saw a video where this was done with the rear diff removed. I think the right side is more difficult to get to than the left.
Diff must be removed. Impossible to install the press tool to remove and install the rear bushings.
 

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Just trying to be lazy. I guess might as well remove the drive shaft and replace the CSB since I already have it.
What grease do you use for the drive shaft CV joint? Do you clean out the old grease first?
 
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