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Discussion Starter #41
Just a small update on the Egg. The first run of eggs have sold out so I did another production run. This time, I made some slight improvements. The Unicorn Egg v2.0 now comes anodized in Motorsport Blue and with a Unicorn laser etched for good luck. The anodizing process adds a hardened surface to the aluminum, eliminating the exposure to oxidation from the elements.



 

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Discussion Starter #43
And here's the follow up The Egg...Unicorn Nuggets. Now we can have a proper Unicorn omelette.

Solid billet shifter carrier bushings, also in matching Motorsport Blue. These bushings replace the shifter carrier bushings that mount into the transmission. Helps eliminate the slop at the shift lever while in gear. No added vibration from the solid bushings because at the rear of the shifter carrier is another rubber bushing that absorbs the vibration.





 

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Just wanted to drop a little note on my experience with Jed and the front diff bushing and I couldn't be happier. I received the bushing and (just like in the pictures) it looks and feels great. I was kind of sad that it's going to be going in such a dirty area of the car!

I rented the special tool and it made the job soooo easy. Popped the stock bushing out with ease. The bushing that was in there basically fell apart after I got it out, no wonder I could feel the driveshaft hitting the bottom of the car, haha. It was so bad that when the car was on a lift, I could physically lift the driveshaft all the way up to the bottom of the car where it was hitting...no bueno. The new bushing slid in perfectly and got everything all bolted up...WHAT A DIFFERENCE! I know part of it is due to the old bushing being completely worn out but now at least I know that I won't have to worry about that anymore. Gear changes are soooooo smooth now and I feel like I can actually get on it without slowly destroying my drivetrain. It's now one of my favorite parts on the car.

Next up is to replace the diff/axle seals along with the driveshaft bearing and guibo.

Thanks Jed!
 

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Received mine this week, installed it today. Went in easy peasy, took about an hour and that included making my own "special tool" to draw out the old bushing and pull this one in.


 

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I dropped the center exhaust brace and all 3 diff bolts also to get extra room. You can make your own tools, 60mm cup/pipe , 48mm spacer/washers and thread rod or long bolt. Considering the damage a broken subframe would cost and the weak overall oe design, i wished this was the fist thing i should have done along with Fresh oil change.
 

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Jed, how much are the nuggets going for? I think I need a set. Rubber is worn.
Any idea if the rear bushing for the shifter linkage is made aftermarket or the OE rubber is the only option?
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Jed, how much are the nuggets going for? I think I need a set. Rubber is worn.

Any idea if the rear bushing for the shifter linkage is made aftermarket or the OE rubber is the only option?


The Nuggets are $60 shipped. You can order them here:

https://www.einhornindustries.com/store/p6/Unicorn_Nuggets_-_Solid_Billet_Aluminum_Shifter_Carrier_Arm_Bushings.html


For the rear bushing on the shifter carrier arm, I’m aware of a urethane version sold by either ECS or FCP. I’ve only heard negative feedback regarding this bushing. Honestly you’re better off with a brand new OEM Rear bushing. You need some rubber on the linkage to absorb the vibration since you’re eliminating 2 rubber bushings up front when installing the Nuggets.
 

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I've got Jed nuggets and nipples in my e28 m5 and e60 m5 6mt.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Your online store doesn't like us from Canada or it's just not setup to ship here? :deal:



I can ship to the US but a shipment to my door is the preferred lazy way...


Sorry I haven’t set up International shipping yet. If you would like to order, you can PM directly and will get you an actual shipping quote to your door. Please provide City and zip code. Thanks!
 

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@M5 Jed

Hopefully you can alleviate a concern for me:

Explain how the front diff mount(AL sub-frame), that is already prone to breakage can cope with the additional deflection and twisting loads with a solid bushing installed? How is more force not imparted onto the aluminum mount?

Additionally do you think it is more or less a good idea to use the rear diff to lift the rear of the car(not on the aluminum cover) with the solid front bushing installed?

I know these have a proven track record and endorsement from respected authorities on the subject, honest questions.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Your online store doesn't like us from Canada or it's just not setup to ship here? :deal:



I can ship to the US but a shipment to my door is the preferred lazy way...


I received your PM the other day, I’ll respond back today. Been a crazy last few weeks here at the Unicorn factory.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
@M5 Jed



Hopefully you can alleviate a concern for me:



Explain how the front diff mount(AL sub-frame), that is already prone to breakage can cope with the additional deflection and twisting loads with a solid bushing installed? How is more force not imparted onto the aluminum mount?



Additionally do you think it is more or less a good idea to use the rear diff to lift the rear of the car(not on the aluminum cover) with the solid front bushing installed?



I know these have a proven track record and endorsement from respected authorities on the subject, honest questions.



Thanks


Very valid questions Kraut. The design of the front mount is weak to begin with, and when a worn out front rubber bushing is added into the mix, this allows movement. From the high torque forces from the driveline, the front of diff will want to move up and down. This movement of the diff creates undue stress to the mount itself. That is why the mount breaks. I’ve seen dozens upon dozens of cases where the diff mount broke because of the worn bushing. Replacing the worn bushing with a solid billet aluminum one eliminates the possibility of any movement of the diff, therefore eliminating any stress on the mount. The 2 rear diff bushings remain in OEM rubber so they do the work of absorbing any noise or vibrations that come from the driveline.

I’ve shipped out hundreds of Eggs in the past few years, and I’m happy to say no one has broken a front diff mount with a Unicorn Egg in place.

Lifting the rear of the car at the diff casing is never a good idea. You are essentially putting half the weight of the car on those 3 diff bushings. Best to lift the rear of the car at the proper jacking points.
 

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Very valid questions Kraut. The design of the front mount is weak to begin with, and when a worn out front rubber bushing is added into the mix, this allows movement. From the high torque forces from the driveline, the front of diff will want to move up and down. This movement of the diff creates undue stress to the mount itself. That is why the mount breaks. I’ve seen dozens upon dozens of cases where the diff mount broke because of the worn bushing. Replacing the worn bushing with a solid billet aluminum one eliminates the possibility of any movement of the diff, therefore eliminating any stress on the mount. The 2 rear diff bushings remain in OEM rubber so they do the work of absorbing any noise or vibrations that come from the driveline.

I’ve shipped out hundreds of Eggs in the past few years, and I’m happy to say no one has broken a front diff mount with a Unicorn Egg in place.

Lifting the rear of the car at the diff casing is never a good idea. You are essentially putting half the weight of the car on those 3 diff bushings. Best to lift the rear of the car at the proper jacking points.
Thanks Jed!

This is what I needed to know, I still have reservations regarding the diff being rubber mounted in the rear and solid mounted in the front. I will chalk this up to over analyzing the situation (a known bad habit of mine) and just install the bushing. Regarding lifting the car by the diff, I always suspected as much, I just wont.
 
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