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Discussion Starter #1
Can't see any leaks on the ground, and the service history shows all 4 legs replaced in the last 2 years. Before it goes on the lift and gives me a hard attack any tips? I was thinking I would have the CH14 Pentosin totally replaced, much like we do the brake fluid every 2 years.

UGHHHH
 

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Can't see any leaks on the ground, and the service history shows all 4 legs replaced in the last 2 years. Before it goes on the lift and gives me a hard attack any tips? I was thinking I would have the CH14 Pentosin totally replaced, much like we do the brake fluid every 2 years.

UGHHHH
Hi!
I would suggest you check the wiring loom above the rear subframe, it passes through the body there and is forced in a pretty sharp bend+ there is some movement in the wiring loom as I understand.
Not so long ago there were pics posted in here on the matter....

MVH
Sakke
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I read that. Is that situated near the right rear subframe bushing? I need the subframe bushes replaced too. So when they replace the bushes, they need to unwrap the loom and look for breaks?

Ughhh....this was not on the list or in the repair budget, but now it's front of the line.
 

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I had this problem every time I drove my ///M when I first purchased it from the previous owner in Dec. 2003.

He had his local dealer check out the system (apparently) - who gave the EDC System a clean bill of health.

Turned-out that for my car, the EDC control box under the back seat had failed.

Fortunately at the time the car was still under BMW Warranty - so a big bill was avoided.

Worth having checked, tho' - in addition to the wiring loom weakspot previously mentioned.

Other possible issues could be the EDC sensors - for steering wheel movement, and lateral acceleration.

Do a search on this subject on the board and you'll find much information.

TK.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
well, flying off tomorrow to the grandparents in florida for spring break. thanks for the tips. I am going to have to stew and guess what it is and how much for a week...good thing I'll be on the beach getting buried in the sand by my sons 6 and 3.

until then
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Report pending today. So far first claim is that leveling fluid is wrong? I have never touched it, so this fluid is from UK and Charter of London. What would you guys put in that my guys wouldn't...I put chf11 pentosin in my 530iT.

lower rear bushes toasted, upper fine. Looking to order replacements, the PN for both here in US is the same, but the lowers show different from uppers on my car...correct? BMWNA says the same, and my guy sees it differently.

I know details are sketchy, and I will post the written report when I get it in my hands....worst report is rust near brake lines....but if IRRC from my under carriage pics it did n't look too serious. Just a wire brush and some treatment I thought.

more later

and no, I am not ripping out the rear suspension
 

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CHF 11S / Pentosin is the only fluid suitable.
Its colour tends to give it away = Green.
It stinks & is yuk to work with.

I can't see anyone putting anything else in there as the reservoir cap has
CHF 11S pressed in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
CHF 11S / Pentosin is the only fluid suitable.
Its colour tends to give it away = Green.
It stinks & is yuk to work with.

I can't see anyone putting anything else in there as the reservoir cap has
CHF 11S pressed in it.
first reports indicate someone topped it up with atf fluid as it was a brown (red + green) color, and the accumulators may be shot as they are collapsed and covered with it. I am hoping the valve isn't gone too.

Who would have done that?
 

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Hello.
This is unfortunate which is an understatement.
I have seen this occur once before in the UK very recently.
It beggars belief & is borne out of total ignorance of the vehicles
systems & how they work.
Break down & recovery agents men are reputed to do this sort of thing on occasion.

"If" this prove to be the case, everything will be contaminated & likely need replacing
including both rear accumulators, rear dampers & ride height accumulator.
The seals will be contaminated & not hold pressure.
This may not be immediate but will develop.

Add to this, the potential damage to the steering box, which may exhibit a
groaning / graunching noise similar to if the system is running dry.
The steering box can be flushed through & may yet survive.

Personally, I hope the above prognosis is wrong.
I wish you the best & am very sad for you & the car that this may have
occured.:sad1:

Farrell
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
both accumulators are toasted. I will need some help in drilling down on the number of hours for repair
here is the repair letter.

I will delete after farrell and others have read it. A 20 year friend who owned this repair shop just sold and I don't really know the new owner Len, but my guy gary is still there and he could very well be a farrell in disguise or acolyte someday.

[deleted]

pm to [email protected] if you still want to read it.

thanks, geoff
 

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Hello Geoff.
I would suggest that they are on the right track.
Very sad & disapointing indeed.
The HP lines will all need replacing anyhow.
As soon as you touch any union nuts, they crumble.

The dampers..
Sounds like they are gooing to run with the existing.
"If" it were my vehicle, I would probably take the view that the damper internal hp seals
were also contaminated.
They may not fail immediately but...
If left insitu, they remain as contaminated parts of questionable durability &
potential re-contamination of the system.
However, as an owner, I also appreciate the cost of the parts.

When you find someone like Gary, who knows the "Why" & "How", support him
& stick with him.
He sounds like a man that your car needs:)

On an OT note..
Interesting comment on the Rear sub-frame bushings = estimate !
No one I know will even "quote" on replacement.
Estimate anywhere from 4-10 hours dependant on whether the centre of the
bush & support sleeve has broken away from the outer face of the bush
contacting the sub frame.
When the puller will not work due to climate, corrosion & neglect, burning, cutting
swearing etc are all thats left as below.

Good luck
Farrell
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I admit I am crushed to say the least. What an initiation. I had set aside funds for wheel and roof rail refurbishing and sirius radio and all the euro bits put back on, along with sunshades and other upgrades that will now sit in their boxes for an eternity. If only I had an under hood nanny cam to catch the weasel who poisoned my sls I could exact my revenge.

I will have to make some hard decisions about the car now. I may be fixing the car for someone else's dream

rats
 

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Geoff
Get angry.
Have a beer.cherrsagai

Then, like many of us in Europe who have taken cars off the road
to remedy proper thorough repair, you will resolve & revel in owning
& driving something that is still pretty unique in Europe, let alone
"Texas, the Lone star state"
How many Tourings exist in Texas ?

It's just going to take a little longer.

:cheers:
Farrell
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Geoff
Get angry.
Have a beer.cherrsagai

Then, like many of us in Europe who have taken cars off the road
to remedy proper thorough repair, you will resolve & revel in owning
& driving something that is still pretty unique in Europe, let alone
"Texas, the Lone star state"
How many Tourings exist in Texas ?

It's just going to take a little longer.

:cheers:
Farrell
There are tons of tourings and one black M5T in Houston. I had $1400 saved for the 57 chevy...vintage air and power steering and a date correct steering wheel. I had a $1000 saved for wheels refurb and tires for the M5T and $500 for AC and twisty seats and bushings etc. I think I will be lucky if the car gets to 95% mechanically for $3000.

Do you think I can flush the rear dampers and live with it. They are barely 2 years old.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Indy wants $98/hour. I am going to have to pick up the car with just the ac repaired... and look for a cheaper alternative. Bottom line is I can't pay full boat for someone's first attempt at an EDC accumulators repair job. It is different than a 530iT accumulator repair right?

ugh
 

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Changing accumulators is not that hard, provided you have a lift, patience and good tools. Do not try without a lift, though.
Then, dump the rest and go 540i with S227. Expensive, but you'll NEVER worry again.
 

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Changing accumulators is not that hard, provided you have a lift, patience and good tools. Do not try without a lift, though.
Then, dump the rest and go 540i with S227. Expensive, but you'll NEVER worry again.

What, me worry?
You do have to change shocks on a 540i suspention also...

Sakke
 

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There are tons of tourings and one black M5T in Houston. I had $1400 saved for the 57 chevy...vintage air and power steering and a date correct steering wheel. I had a $1000 saved for wheels refurb and tires for the M5T and $500 for AC and twisty seats and bushings etc. I think I will be lucky if the car gets to 95% mechanically for $3000.

Do you think I can flush the rear dampers and live with it. They are barely 2 years old.
THe accumulators are the same for all E34 if I`m not mistaken.
I fiolled in ATF by mistake 5 years ago , and noticed that first some months later. Flushed the system with Pentosin (motor running, filling in correct fluid so that the outcoming fluid is clear by some margin) and the shocks are still Dry and functioning(original shocks 212000kms(appr.130k miles)
So go for it.

Sakke
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well, I am choosing to fix the accumulators (spheres) hydraulic lines and buy extra pentosin to flush the entire system. He has a set up to flush each side, and though he can't guarantee that both spheres are collapsed internally, he has seen in about a 100 sphere replacements that when filled back up, one or both might not be destroyed. I am going to replace them both regardless, but we'll know one way or the other. The best thing for the car is to not drive it as driving on collapsed dampers will cause hydraulic shock on other parts. In my 530iT it was the main valve back there. In EDC it's the rear dampers themselves, so it became too apparent that this was the highest priority. The bushings will have to wait. He's already changed the expansion valve and recharged the ac, so we'll know sometime near Friday how the EDC system fares.

I still can't for the life of me figure how ATF got in there. I picked the car up at the importers in Oakland and parked it at the Presidio for one night in San Fran, and then drove it home to Texas over the next three days. I had Sayther's change the oil in Austin when I got home, but those guys are too versed in Pentosin use and prices to put ATF in there. Could moisture cause Pentosin to go brown? I will see if I can't take a picture of the offending fluid. I am going to see the car today when it's on the lift and give my indy Gary a digital camera to take a few snaps for me. I keep a cheap brookstone digital camera in my glove box for accident recording just in case. In most cities in Texas, it's the law to move all wrecks to the side of the highway, and your causation evidence get's moved with it.

luck
 
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