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Discussion Starter #1
just took the plunge and did the ESS vt550 kit on the m5. im a complete noob to the whole FI world and looking for some info from the pro's out there... you guys know who you are :) been doing a bit of research on over the last few days and read that its a good idea to run a slightly colder plug. so yesterday a picked up a set of ngk bkr7eix iridium plugs, one range colder than the bkr6eix spec'd for the s62. installed and indexed them. also installed some new pre cat 02's.

just looking for any tips, info, do's/don'ts, what to look out for in terms of issues etc. i said from the start that one thing i wanted for sure was to maintain stock like reliability. not looking to go over the top or stress the engine too much. i don't plan on adding intercoolers or meth etc at this point in the game. maybe down the road if i was to rebuild the engine but not anytime in the distant future.

so a few questions,

1 fuel pump, the car has around 75k on her. been reading its recommended to replace the fuel pump when installing the kit. does the setup really stress the fuel pump beyond what a stock engine does? filter is new.

2 would like to install a boost gauge next, recommendations?

3 fuel recommendations, i assume the higher octane the better? boosters?

i'd also like some input from anyone running the vt550 kit or similar as to any tweaks or mods you've made, install issues, etc. thanks.
 

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just took the plunge and did the ESS vt550 kit on the m5. im a complete noob to the whole FI world and looking for some info from the pro's out there... you guys know who you are :) been doing a bit of research on over the last few days and read that its a good idea to run a slightly colder plug. so yesterday a picked up a set of ngk bkr7eix iridium plugs, one range colder than the bkr6eix spec'd for the s62. installed and indexed them. also installed some new pre cat 02's.



just looking for any tips, info, do's/don'ts, what to look out for in terms of issues etc. i said from the start that one thing i wanted for sure was to maintain stock like reliability. not looking to go over the top or stress the engine too much. i don't plan on adding intercoolers or meth etc at this point in the game. maybe down the road if i was to rebuild the engine but not anytime in the distant future.



so a few questions,



1 fuel pump, the car has around 75k on her. been reading its recommended to replace the fuel pump when installing the kit. does the setup really stress the fuel pump beyond what a stock engine does? filter is new.



2 would like to install a boost gauge next, recommendations?



3 fuel recommendations, i assume the higher octane the better? boosters?



i'd also like some input from anyone running the vt550 kit or similar as to any tweaks or mods you've made,

install issues, etc. thanks.
Welcome to the other side my friend!!!

As many SC Gurus will tell you, out of box SC Kits will provide ~80% of the advertised power, but goal is to get consistent power and full benefits of that SC

As you know additional power does not come without baggage and the largest baggage is a lot of HEAT. The extra heat begins to rob you of power and this where you open a can of worms and the mod list begins to look like yellow pages.

You said no to meth, but you'd be surprised of what it can do. I am not sure of what you have on your car, but all that pressure needs to come out as soon as possible (headers, exhaust, etc) You will also notice that on those hot days your oil temps will pass 210 degrees and water temps will also rise by few degrees but should not pass half way point. This is where oil cooler and different radiators discussions come in, but I'll leave that for your research.

Here are few opinions to your question.

1. Change the fuel pump when the
current pump dies. Oem fuel pump is a great fuel pump.

2. Speedhut makes a nice product, but there are tons of stuff out there. It all comes down to preference.

3. Yes, higher octane is better. Torco is a reputable fuel additive. Google it.

Few members including myself have made significant amount of improvements, but of course it's not for everybody and the kit will function just fine as is.

I am sure other members will chime in.. If there are typos blame my phone.







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This is very good advice. I will add a few comments from my experience.

1. Fuel pump is OK, it is injectors that are marginal in size for fuel requirements. For stock pulley (96mm), you should be fine with a stock pump and ESS sized injectors. When the fuel pump goes, replace with something like the Aeromotive 340 lph unit, about 1/2 price of stock. In my case, I kept stock because it was just replaced (and nothing wrong with the old pump at 99k miles!) but I added Kenne Bell boost a pump for the increased boost (92mm pulley) which requires more fuel.

2. Speedhut advantage is that the face pretty much matches the rest of the gauges. They also made different version of boost, 15 20 and 30 I believe, so the scale is a little different on each. But you can customize. I don't think they are as accurate as say a VDO, at least under vacuum. The Speedhut supposedly self calibrates every time it is energized, but mine doesn't always start at exactly the same spot. However under boost, it seems more reliable.

3. Use at least 93 octane. If not, then add octane boost. Torco is very good, although a bit expensive. I would add any time I am not running 93 octane, or running on the track (with or without meth or intercooler). Heat is what causes predetonation. If you use Torco often, buy it by the case. Most tunes will advance timing a bit up to about 95-96 octane equivalent.

Regards,
Jerry
 

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Discussion Starter #4
yeah i've definitely noticed that the engine is running a little hotter than pre SC. im also interested in any tweaks guys have made to the kit or the engine, fitment issues, etc. ie i didn't like the way the small hose from the bottom of the expansion tank was sandwiched between the tensioner bracket and the sec air non return valve. so being the sec air pump is gone i removed the plastic feed hose to the valve, removed the valve, and made a plate to cap off the hole. i was just going to remove the whole aluminum hard line but the left side is a pita to get at the bolt that holds the line into the block. the vanos accumulator is in the way and its a pain to get it off, plus i was loosing daylight by that time. i may just cut the line close as i can to the block and cap it off.

so whats the deal with the smaller pulley mod? smaller pulley makes the blower spin faster, more boost?
 

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Not to sound like a salesman, but I'll be putting my aeromotive pump in the FS section. Going back to oem.

Smaller pulley = more boost.
If you go to 92mm SC pulley I recommend going with 440cc injectors. The smaller pulley with give you ~1lb of boost. If you add headers, subtract a pound.

I made a block off plate as well for the SAP and later found BMW OEM block off plates. These are for euro spec M5. If you are interested PM me your email address and send you the part numbers.

Lastly, I would not add more boost until you are comfortable with the temps. Additional boost will also add additional heat.

Prior to final tune, I replaced all 02 sensors, TPS and CPS, new radiator, new fan clutch, replaced all vacuum hoses. Plenum plates definitely help in terms of fighting leaks, so as an aluminum plenum lid.





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Discussion Starter #6
what kind of highway mileage are you getting? idk if the obc is still accurate now but my mpg has gone way up since installing the blower. cruising on the highway im getting an easy 23mpg which i've never seen with this car.
 

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what kind of highway mileage are you getting? idk if the obc is still accurate now but my mpg has gone way up since installing the blower. cruising on the highway im getting an easy 23mpg which i've never seen with this car.
Do you have stock injectors still, or did the kit come with bigger ones? I've heard that if you drive the car "normally" and keep your foot out of the throttle that you would get better mileage. I think that's hard to accomplish though :M5launch: If you don't have stock injectors than the OBC is useless for the mileage calculator.
 

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what kind of highway mileage are you getting? idk if the obc is still accurate now but my mpg has gone way up since installing the blower. cruising on the highway im getting an easy 23mpg which i've never seen with this car.
Although 23 mpg on the highway is doable, no, you are running bigger injectors (by about 20%). So if you measure the old fashioned way (tank to tank fill ups), you will find your real mileage and can adjust the OBC accordingly (around #20 I believe, but you can check, stock value around 1000).

I am doing this from memory, so I may be a little off. Stock injectors are about 265cc. The ESS is 315, and I believe their upgrade kit around 350.

You can get the OBC to adjust for the ESS standard injectors, just fool around with the adjustment until your computer matches real world (I always showed about .1-.2 less with the OBC than real mileage, on purpose).

Mileage on the highway shouldn't be off more than about 5-8%. You are pulling the SC belt which is where most of the difference will come from. I don't believe the engine is any more efficient since the O2 sensors and computer will strive for 14.7 AFR at cruising unless the tuning maps can be adjusted to run a bit leaner at light throttle cruise. That would be nice. I know AJ did have a program like that but as far as I know, he never released it.

Regards,
Jerry
 

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what kind of highway mileage are you getting? idk if the obc is still accurate now but my mpg has gone way up since installing the blower. cruising on the highway im getting an easy 23mpg which i've never seen with this car.

The computer reading is incorrect. You have larger injectors, there is not way you gonna get 391 miles on that tank.

There is a setting in the secret menu to increase fuel "something" that will give you a better estimate on fuel consumption.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ok maybe one of you guys can field this one. im getting a whistle noise when lightly on the pedal. i think its related to the bypass valve as i moved the adjuster by accident when i was clocking the valve to tweak the angle the vacuum line runs to it. afaik the adjuster/rod is supposed to be right in the middle so thats where i put it. roman said try turning it in a bit to tighten it up but i did and the noise is still there. where are you guys running the tension on the valve?
 
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