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Trizzuth's 2003 E39 M5 Maintenance Thread

129K views 828 replies 57 participants last post by  E39///MPower 
#1 ·
Hello gents,

I came from the E46Fanatics world as I had been on that site since 2005, and just lost my 2001 330i to a total loss accident. An 85 year old woman claimed her foot slipped off the brake and onto the gas as she shot out of a parking lot unbeknownst to me and crushed the right rear quarter of my car. Being an 01 with 236K miles (all maintained by me) insurance felt the car was pretty worthless. Took a few weeks and proof via many many receipts of parts (all my labor unfortunately) to raise the value to an acceptable figure. I was also able to rape the car for any other aftermarket parts I could unload so I did ok in the end.

Picked up my new (used) 2003 TiAg M5 with 79K miles about 2 hours away from home, but still in Mass. Wiggled on the price a little bit and in the end considering what I was able to get for my E46, I picked this up for just under 20K.

Small things I have done thus far to bring my thread up to speed:
1) Had to get new front tires (Michelin Pilot Sport A/S to match the backs that were new). The Fronts were older Michelin Pilot Sport A/S from back in 2010 and had chunks of rubber missing from the tread area, even though the tread was still deep, tons of dry rot and it made me nervous on a car of this caliber so I had new ones put on.

2) Installed the short clutch stop from the ebay user recommended on here, made that lower clutch pedal dead spot so much better and car still starts no problem!

3) Hardwired my V1 so I am protected or at least on the defensive end all the time.

4) Inspected all 4 brakes, everything looks good, washed and waxed with Klasse All in One before the winter comes.

5) Figured out a decent solution to the water pooling in the gas cap area, for which I will post up some pics soon so you all can see. Granted it's not an optimal solution, but with the door closed you can't see anything and that was the only area on the entire car where there were some small rust bubbles.

6) Got under the car to check everything out, repaired the lower right fender belly panel the best I could until I get a new one, and found some exhaust brackets totally rusted through. I have the replacements from FCP in my garage right now waiting to go in.

7) Found out there is green coolant in this car (YIKES!!!) and not OE BMW Blue. Have records from PO of thermostat being replaced around 2013, so that is new-ish, as well as the clutch.

8) Issues I am currently perplexed with: Strange hesitation sometimes in 1st and 2nd gear, I've read on here about this, seems better with Sport mode engaged, but does not feel like it drives perfectly in 1 and 2. The rest of the gears are good. I am exaggerating this issue, but there is definitely something up. Also the clutch makes a spring-like sound when depressed and released which I also read can be normal, but my bigger concern (hoping it's the loose exhaust bracket rattling) is that once 1st gear is engaged, during the process of engagement, there is a strange creak.

I need to get my airbag recall done soon, so I am hoping to have the dealer at least assess the car overall and take a peek at the 1 and 2 gear issue along with the clutch noise. We'll see what they say.

Otherwise this thing is amazing, it's literally my favorite car of all time, so much so that when my girlfriend and I were dating, she rented me one from a high horsepower rental place for like $600 for one day! It stuck in my mind ever since. That was back in about 2001.

Just rolled the ODO over 80K the other day. Oil looks perfect, no leaks anywhere from what I can see. Will try to post up some pics that are on my phone soon.
 
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#412 ·
Ive recently been discussing ABS heat shields with a buddy of mine who found one on eBay for $165.

Decided to find my own heat shield material was able to find some nice quality stuff at Summit racing for $20 for a 12 in square.

Hooked it up with rivets, mounted to the threaded hole on the side of the ABS pump and the primary bolt holding the ABS pump. I’m psyched because it actually covers the Shorty brake lines too which can burst if they’re never replaced and get dry rotted from heat,












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#414 ·
So yesterday I had to drive my daughter 1.2 hours to a friend's house up in northern MA one way. I was already a bit concerned since it was essentially one of the hottest days of the year and due to overheating one time before (but having refreshed all coolant since then) I was a bit paranoid if I got stuck in some stop and go traffic. The items I have not yet touched on the car are the radiator, thermostat (which I know is soft-failing and opens around 74 C), and water pump. Everything else was replaced when I did the coolant refresh in 2019.

Leave my house, about 90 ambient temp pretty quick, as I travel north i see 92, then 94 then 95 pretty quickly. Then it jumps to 97 and eventually 99 and then 100! Finally settled in on 102 for the last 20 minutes of my drive or so. I have the coolant temp showing on my nav unit so I can see the actual number real-time. Gauges were all working fine, and coolant temp went up to about 98 but I did not see it cross 100. When I dropped my daughter off and shut the car off to get her things out, and re-started it, the coolant temp was at 100 and ambient temp still 102. Originally I had planned to go get a coffee at starbucks and chill for awhile while the outdoor temps cooled, but according to the forecast, it would be hours before that happened, so I figured maybe I just get gas and turn around to go back down towards home where it's at least 10-12 degrees cooler.

Stopped at one pump, got out and the screen was blank, started car, backed up and filled up. When I restarted the car, I saw my coolant temp now reading 102... then it went to 104, by the time it hit 104, the needle on the gauge went from dead in the middle to the 3/4 mark to the right!! I determined at this point, it was better to drive the car, get back on the highway and get some air going through the radiator than it was to sit with the car off as it often increases in heat from that. Good choice as the temps started to come back down, and although I did get stuck in some stop and go traffic, I made it home without issue and once I got air (albeit 100 degree air!!) coming through the radiator, my oil cooled off a bit and was back in the middle and my coolant gauge was as well and I was soon down into low 90's for coolant temp.

I have determined that based on when I replaced my coolant and shot a hose through the radiator, and saw so much grey filth come out from in between the veins, that the radiator is indeed the primary problem here. I can hear my aux fan spinning like a jet engine, and normally the car's temp is fine, it is only when the ambient temp is in upper 90's to 100's and I am in stop and go traffic that it starts to climb. Water pump working fine spinning the coolant and thermostat always opens fully when the car is hot.

So looks like I will be grabbing the CSF radiator from FCP since this is one problem area I do not want to worry about any longer and replace that when I do my thermostat soon. Have decided to leave the water pump for now until something comes out the weep hole. And gobs more coolant from BMW for this job.
 
#415 ·
I also wanted to post some notes about the heat shield I made for the ABS unit. I did some testing with it in place after driving around for awhile in the heat, temps on the outer and inner wall were around 150-160.

I recently removed it when I went for the 102 degree drive noted above because I was paranoid about trapping extra heat and making things worse until I could revise the heat shield. When I got back home, the car was HOT. I tested the temps on the ABS unit's aluminum housing and the black plastic area where the electronics are and they were just about the same around 150-160. Breathes better without the heat shield I think, and I am now concerned that the heat shield might be absorbing more heat and trapping it near the unit and shorty brake lines than protecting it from the heat. It will stay out for now.
 
#417 · (Edited)
what the E39 really needs is a combination of a vented hood and a (radiant) heat shield. Measuring the temps with the hood open is not a true test of how well one design works vs. another. The true test is when the car is fully heat soaked like you described, but has to drive around at slow speeds.

The vorsteiner hood was a popular option back in the day, but it's not great if you have an all-weather car. Lots of people have mentioned splicing in the E46/E38 hood vent, but I've never seen someone actually get it done.
 
#419 ·
Massive cooling system overhaul parts order placed at FCP, literally the only thing I am not changing at this time is the water pump.

Am also going to replace the cooling hoses I replaced back in 2019 when I did the flush, since they are lifetime FCP parts, no sense in leaving something 3 years old in there when it can be brand new for just the cost of shipping the old parts back. New Sensors under lifetime warranty too. Possibly going to also return some used coolant!! depends on how heavy it is to ship, but I am $120 deep into new coolant right now anyways.

Gem on top of the pile is a new CSF radiator, and the new thermostat plus new housing I bought awhile back and never put in the car.

Man I can't wait to never really care to look at my temp gauges obsessively ever again for a loooooooooonng time.

I may also decide to tackle the power steering reservoir and lines when I do the cooling system overhaul since it's going to be wide open and I won't likely have that much room again. That should be a cakewalk (knock on wood cuz I get burned every time I say that) with it so wide open.
 
#421 ·
Massive cooling system overhaul parts order placed at FCP, literally the only thing I am not changing at this time is the water pump.

Am also going to replace the cooling hoses I replaced back in 2019 when I did the flush, since they are lifetime FCP parts, no sense in leaving something 3 years old in there when it can be brand new for just the cost of shipping the old parts back. New Sensors under lifetime warranty too. Possibly going to also return some used coolant!! depends on how heavy it is to ship, but I am $120 deep into new coolant right now anyways.

Gem on top of the pile is a new CSF radiator, and the new thermostat plus new housing I bought awhile back and never put in the car.

Man I can't wait to never really care to look at my temp gauges obsessively ever again for a loooooooooonng time.

I may also decide to tackle the power steering reservoir and lines when I do the cooling system overhaul since it's going to be wide open and I won't likely have that much room again. That should be a cakewalk (knock on wood cuz I get burned every time I say that) with it so wide open.
I'd get a new water pump anyways, even if you aren't installing it. Never know when BMW decides "Sorry NLA" or "Yes, that'll be $1200 please". Also the CSF may or may not be tricky to bleed. Bimmerworld had an online article that recommended to back fill the system through the upper rad hose into the engine until full. connect hose to rad, run car, shut off, cool down overnight, top off, repeat. Article is now gone weirdly. Some went with normal factory bleed procedure and was fine. Others had to use a vacuum bleeder. So yeah, could be either of those for you.

Thanks for keep us up to date on your maintenance. I am curious to see if the intended overhaul reduces temps. Over the last few years I have noticed elevated oil temps while coolant has remained pretty much the same and was wondering if an overhaul of the cooling system would also help the oil. My thought was even though they are separate systems, if I could keep the engine temp down it would help with oil temps.

I have been changing coolant and brake fluid every two years with my annual NY inspection since 2007 and was hoping that by following this I would keep the original system functioning longer. I have all original coolant parts as of now (I hope I did not just jinx myself ! ).

Looking forward to what you find.

Thanks again,

Mike
If you have all original parts, I'd seriously suggest you do a cooling overhaul now before it's too late. Even if they seem fine, they are still 20 year old parts.

Also to help keep things running cool is to make sure there's no debris in between the a/c condensor and radiator. That little area is known for filling up with stuff like leaves, road garbage etc.
 
#422 ·
100% agree with @Nfs021 on both buying parts that may at some point become NLA, and overhauling original systems that where installed on the production line.

I kept my original cooling system from 2001 until last year. My car was in the Northeast it's whole life and the cooling system was never truly stressed even in summer months. My first trip down to NC with high humidity, plus regular 95F+ temps, I got a hairline crack in the radiator. I was very lucky the pressure equalized and didnt spit out all the coolant.
 
#423 ·
Thank you for the information on bleeding the CSF radiator! that will be extremely helpful and I typically use only OE parts for replacing items like this, so my aftermarket venture into the CSF radiator is new to me. Hope I don't regret it in the end... no problem doing that procedure since the whole thing will be new..

also you have a good point and I probably will buy the water pump soon after the hit from this round settles down. Just say that FCP discounted it from $649 to $600 for the OE Geba or Laso pump (can't remember which) so possibly car parts are now coming down a bit again.. but the NLA thing is REAL.
 
#424 ·
Found this idea from another thread I think I may do this.. getting tired of the "sink drain" look up front and enjoy the much wider look of the grille with the OEM piece. Now I have this solution for the ducting to the brakes.. use the appropriate sized drill and just make holes in the original piece, great idea!

 
#429 ·
^^ nope but looks like Zionsville does here.. says it should fit the 97-03 540i, but does not say M5.... aren't their cooling expansion tanks the same/similar?

 
#431 ·
There's something wrong with the Zionsville expansion system, I think. I haven't looked at it in a long time but I remember noticing something that didn't look right when I was looking it over years ago.
 
#430 ·
Hey quick question. Did you ever have anymore issues with the brake calipers on the style 32's? Or did the grinding solve it?

I scored a new square set of m-pars to replace the awful condition aftermaket wheels on my M5. Much as I would love 65's. I'm not paying the crackhead prices now for the rears.

Anyways the 37's I got are the E39 ones 18x9 ET 24 similar to the 32's rear setup. Were your 32's squared or staggered? Can't remember that part.
 
#432 ·
Hey quick question. Did you ever have anymore issues with the brake calipers on the style 32's? Or did the grinding solve it?

I scored a new square set of m-pars to replace the awful condition aftermaket wheels on my M5. Much as I would love 65's. I'm not paying the crackhead prices now for the rears.

Anyways the 37's I got are the E39 ones 18x9 ET 24 similar to the 32's rear setup. Were your 32's squared or staggered? Can't remember that part.
yup, my 32's are 18 x 9 square, and no issues after grinding down the replacement calipers and giving them a coat of silver paint. Make sure you grind them enough so you have good clearance that will account for any hard cornering, but I do take it much easier on these in the winter months than I do my style 65's..
 
#433 · (Edited)
Had some time this morning and did something I never did before on any bmw, even my e46 that I had for 236,000 miles!

Tranny fluid change using OE MTF-LT2 (does LT stand for lifetime? Lol)

Also found that I have quite a few torn ball joint boots on the rear, mainly upper and lower control arms. Add it to the list, at least my flex seal application seems to have kept rust at bay.

Also swapped the inner exhaust flange bolts and nuts with some OE gear I got awhile back and hadn’t put in…

Have not driven the car yet, but with this fluid change and my incoming e60 545i shifter I think it might be amazing… I checked the play on the shifter from underneath and there was an assload coming from the white cup and ball area alone.. hoping for the best!

Pics










Took just about 2 liters of fluid, in used a cheap pump action manual fluid transfer pump to fill it till the fluid dripped out, plugged it up when it stopped dripping. Fluid that came out was like a grayish light amber ish transparent color, not black but used for sure…


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#436 ·
Ha I wiped it clean first, maybe my rear main seal leaking a bit, but right now my leaking valve covers are what’s running down the side of the engine and floating backwards so it’s hard to really tell what’s from that or otherwise right now. I will most likely do that job this fall sometime, once it gets cooler I get super motivated to do all the car work I’ve been putting off. But cooling system and new radiator is next, maybe power steering reservoir and lines while I have all the cooling **** out too as I have that on stock.


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#438 ·
M5’s been on my mind lately!

E60 545i shifter installed with new shift cup and spring clip. Lubed up the ball and shift lever pin with white lithium grease. My white cup refused to release and it was tough to press on the protruding locked clips from the outside so I too mangled it until it came apart. I had a lot of play coming from that white cup alone. Also sneaking the fat rubber lip under the trans tunnel was a pain, I went up and down on the lift a few times to coerce it in there.. worst part was the temp in my garage and me straight sweating the whole time, I cleaned cup the leather nice after I exited. Have not driven the car yet, but wow it’s different. Way shorter throws and definitely notchier. Can’t wait to drive it, but the roads got wet today and I gotta protect my appreciating asset!

Pics

Before






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