Just got done some maintenance items, new hydraulic tensioners and finally my cold start squeals are gone! And I finally and shamefully got around to (2 years later after buying the car) filly evacuating all of the green coolant that came with the car. Feels sooooo good to have BMW blue in there now, especially after my overheating incident this summer behind the R8. Here’s what I did:
Flush all coolant with hose,
sprayed and cleaned radiator from the belt side with hose which appeared to remove a good amount of dirt,
Removed existing dual heater valve assembly and while it was out, fully flushed with hose through these valve hoses which removed a ton of coolant and i feel was equivalent to removing the two engine block drain plugs... it took a long long time for the green to stop coming out of the lower hose near the firewall..
Replaced upper and lower radiator hoses and the expansion tank to thermostat hose, the lower hose coolant sensor and thermostat sensor. New radiator drain plug, and a used dual heater valve from Clemster as I have been getting a code (non check engine light) for the aux heater valve water pump. A bunch of new clamps too while I was in there. Removal of both plastic hose connections was brutal as I recall in the E46. Lower heater valve hose was also a ***** with my big hands but I got after it.
What I did not touch as I am currently at 100k miles, have old service record of the thermostat being replaced, so did not touch that but I have FCP part now in stock with like 100 O rings ha in case I need to do this at some random point. Did not touch water pump, radiator or expansion tank. That’s what’s left so the purpose of this was really just to evacuate all green coolant and it replaced some things preventively while in there.
Well this was an a fun surprise to find right before I go to put on my winter wheels!! I have no idea how I didn’t notice it before when I only ran these for a week earlier this summer, maybe I was hyper focused on the tire rubbing against the strut and didn’t even see these grooves from the caliber touching the wheel under hard cornering when the wheel flexes??? It’s not touching when the wheel is mounted but it’s definitely grooving the inside of the barrel under hard cornering so I will attempt to shave down the outer edge of the caliper with a grinder to see if I can get some more clearance here hopefully I will be OK then...ug
Definitely into the aluminum a wee bit. So now I have ground down each front caliper on the outside edge with a grinder and belt sander. Shaved off a good amount, it was the inner outside edge that was the issue, the calipers have a very subtle but obvious thickness to the inner edge on the outside, so I took mostly all of that off and now the outer edge appears to be much more consistent in terms of thickness. Have mounted wheels on front to check, pulled off and ground some more till I felt it was sufficient space. Used my old silver caliper paint over the grinding marks, and will mount the rears on the fronts since they did not have any scratches from my test run this summer. This way I can tell easily if there is any more contact, simply by jacking up one corner, or getting up on ramps and taking a quick look. I'm hoping that my little bit of time and effort here will go a long way and I'm all set for winter now. Time will tell, and I will do a few checks after taking some hard corners. Will post up some pics later..
I've checked the inner barrels pretty good after a 2 hour drive on the highway and a few trips to work and all seems good! No marks! I have yet to really dive into a corner though. Front suspension refresh happening soon, steering center link and both tie rods, both front control arms and sway bar end links, new sway bar bushings and strut pinch bolts and nuts. Soon this will happen...
Mad mad alternator issues recently. So just cross-linking some other threads I had created and posted in:
Summary: Got Red Battery light on my way to work on 1/10, figured it was my 9 year old battery, bought battery, installed battery, problem not better. Removed 1 year 2 mo old Bosch FCP alternator, took to Autozone for bench test, tested out fine, so reinstalled and checked all grounds on car. Eventually the battery would not charge at all, so I ordered a new alternator from FCP under lifetime warranty, installed it and now all is good. Going to return the old (well, YOUNG actually, wtf!) alternator, and the old battery, keep my new one as I don't like having a 9 year old battery in the car.
Now that you summarize everything... Maybe a bad battery caused your alt failure. Alts are designed to have a battery connected as a load, mainly to keep voltage constant. When batteries get old/weak their voltage can be made to swing with little current changes due to loads causing regulators to burn. Either way issue fixed now.
Hmmm, interesting theory here, and could possibly be a potential cause. I will say that I do not think the battery was shorted or going bad, I was always able to start the car with no problem, and even when the alternator fully stopped working, I started the car several times without issue.
But like you said, oh well, now battery and alt brand new, let's hope they last me 10 years!