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Discussion Starter #181
Thank you!

Thank you for the feedback! Happy to hear I was able to help you with your laser jammer installation. Feedback and kind appreciation are always greatly appreciated.

I know.......seeing a cop aim his laser gun on you and unable to get a reading is priceless! Just remember to slow down to speed limit after you get hit with laser or even radar as the cop can take off, follow you and pace you to get your speed, or radio ahead to another cop.

No tickets and lets all stay out jail!

By the way, looking forward to seeing photos of you new LP 550 2012!

Happy Bday Dan!!!

You don't know this but you have kept me out of jail and saved me thousands of dollars from speeding tickets!! Thanks for helping me out with my laser jammers! (I wish you could have seen the cops face as I drove past him at about 120 on the interstate and froze his gun :) )
 

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Thanks! Yeah I always hit the brakes but that one day I froze and just kept speeding. Guess I found out they really work the hard way. Yeah I am pretty excited. Sure is hard waiting a month!
 

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Happy Birthday Dan, Great to see the beast back in proper hands.
 

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Happy belated birthday Dan;

I hope the following recommended exercise prolongs your life and positively impacts your already prodigious driving skills:


Begin by standing on a comfortable surface, where you have plenty of
room at each side.

With a 5-lb potato bag in each hand, extend your arms straight out from
your sides and hold them there as long as you can. Try to reach a full
minute, then relax.

Each day you'll find that you can hold this position for just a bit
longer. After a couple of weeks, move up to 10-lb potato bags.

Then, try 50-lb potato bags and, eventually, try to get to where you
can lift a 100-lb potato bag in each hand and hold your arms straight
out for more than a full minute. (I'm at this level.)

After you feel confident at that level, put a potato in each bag.

Bill
_
 

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Happy belated birthday Dan;

I hope the following recommended exercise prolongs your life and positively impacts your already prodigious driving skills:


Begin by standing on a comfortable surface, where you have plenty of
room at each side.

With a 5-lb potato bag in each hand, extend your arms straight out from
your sides and hold them there as long as you can. Try to reach a full
minute, then relax.

Each day you'll find that you can hold this position for just a bit
longer. After a couple of weeks, move up to 10-lb potato bags.

Then, try 50-lb potato bags and, eventually, try to get to where you
can lift a 100-lb potato bag in each hand and hold your arms straight
out for more than a full minute. (I'm at this level.)

After you feel confident at that level, put a potato in each bag.

Bill
_
Bill,

As soon as you are over with the poor potatoes, hand them over. I know an excellent way to make fries with eggs and sausages.lovelove

George
 

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I am glad you have her back again. Man.. i have had the same problem a few days ago. I was literally a 1000 miles from home when it happened. I would downshift and it just wouldn't go into the gear. The current gear would also disappear from the HUD (as if it wasn't in any gear). But a few seconds later it would go into gear and take off like normal.

Had to park the car on an exit of the highway a minute later as it started stuttering and total loss of power, no gear change possible anymore. Bad smell too. Had to be towed to some dealer far away from my home (happened on the German autobahn though so BMW dealers with the best service were just around the corner) but now it's just sitting there waiting for transport home... Had to drive home in a Ford Kuga. Haha. That one wasn't even that bad to drive. But damn i hope my car will be transported soon and then repaired. I miss it now with these sunny days.

The only good thing about this is that I have full warranty till June this year. Without this trip I probably would have had the same problem a few months later but then the costs were on me.
 

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Update: It was the clutch... $3000 fix and we're rolling again. Was afraid it would be this because it doesn't fall under warranty. Will call BMW for some leniency though because of the low mileage. Will let you know if they are willing to chip in.
 

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^^^ It can't hurt to threaten a lawsuit. Even if your not serious. Many times it costs BMW more to deal with the lawsuit then to actually fix the problem.
 

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Here is what I wrote on another thread. This is for the M5. I assume the M6 is the same.


Very easy. Remove the micro filter on passenger side in the engine compartment. Now remove the bottom tray that the micro filter sat in. The L and R trays overlap in the middle and you have 1 plastic nut there to rotate 90 degrees. That one nut is under a plastic cover you must slide off. I think there are (4) 13mm plastic nut heads that rotate 90 degrees to get the tray out. Just like the one on the micro filter cover. One metal screw with a torx head in the front. Now you will see a relay box that takes a #5 allen wrench. Remove the 5 screws and near the firewall you will see a white plastic tab that you must slide to the unlocked position. Pull the cover off and you will now see the realys. The black one closest to the firewall is the smg hyd relay. There is a plastic ridge on top of the relay. Grab that with plyers and pull straight up. PAY ATTENTION to the orientation of the metal prongs on the relay when you pull it out. This way you know which way to align the new one when you push it in. You can't get down there to see it if you don't do this. Towards the fender is a salmon colored relay. That's the smg oil pump relay. That's it. Put everything back in reverse order.<!-- google_ad_section_end -->


Also I wrote:

Yes there are 2 relays in the box you should change out. The smg hyd pump is 61366901469 and Tischers price is 10.94. Of course this one gets a lot of hard use. The other one is the smg transmission oil pump which moves transmission oil through the cooler. That one is salmon color and it's part number is 12631742690 for 6.94. Since I'm in the relay box anyway, I change both when I do spark plugs. I always buy 2 each so I have a spare in the garage. How many times have we read where someone is left walking and their car is flatbeded to the dealer just for the burned out relay. I think they should be changed often, they are cheap.<!-- google_ad_section_end --> <!-- / message -->
    • <!-- / message -->
Did we verify these were the actual part#s for our M6? Anything else we should change while we're doing SMG maintenance?
 

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Also, how hard is it to flush the trans? Is this something I can do in the garage.
 

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I just finished reading each page of this thread,

I also received the yellow transmission malfunction message a few days ago, I parked the car almost immediately and the message disappeared,


SO, should I take it to BMW for Diagnostics or wait till it pops up again? Car is driving fine and haven’t noticed any issues while shifting gears. On an occasion I will hear it shift rather loud between R to 1... I have already done 45k so I’m afraid of what’s coming beyond the horizon...:eek:
<?xml:namespace prefix = "o" ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com<img src=" /><o:p></o:p>


Should I get it diagnosed today or wait till next week OR if the error appears again?
<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
PS: My car drives really jerky like on a cold start (only in winter seasons), once it warms up its fine?<o:p></o:p>
 

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The jerkiness on cold mornings sounds like an SMG pump failing--it needs to build up significant pressure to function properly. The other thing to check for is spotting under where you park the car, if you are really lucky it could be a leak but I'd prepare for SMG pump replacement.

I'm still lurking around even though I sold my car a year ago--I still feel a little wistful when I see an M6 on the road.
 

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I just finished reading each page of this thread,

I also received the yellow transmission malfunction message a few days ago, I parked the car almost immediately and the message disappeared,


SO, should I take it to BMW for Diagnostics or wait till it pops up again? Car is driving fine and haven’t noticed any issues while shifting gears. On an occasion I will hear it shift rather loud between R to 1... I have already done 45k so I’m afraid of what’s coming beyond the horizon...:eek:
<?xml:namespace prefix = "o" ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com<img src=" /><o:p></o:p>


Should I get it diagnosed today or wait till next week OR if the error appears again?
<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
PS: My car drives really jerky like on a cold start (only in winter seasons), once it warms up its fine?<o:p></o:p>
Have the codes read, but most likely it's a 4FA0 code, "clutch position deviation". This indicates a deviation between the clutch position value as read by the PLCD and the position value ordered by the SMG module.

There are several reasons this can occur but if you are only seeing it on Very cold mornings, it may be nothing more than the thicker (cold) hydraulic fluid's effects on the clutch control valve. If you have no problems after it warms up,it may never manifest more than that error.

I received that quite a bit when I first got my car at 60k miles and would leave the selector in 'N' while pumping the brakes a few times. This will cycle the clutch valve and put some heat into the fluid as well as cycle the clutch release bearing a few times in the event it's sticky and causing travel delay.

The other possibility for this error of course is the CRB and guide bushing are galling. This is cheap in parts but requires dropping the transmission to fix. Most people will elect to change the clutch and possibly flywheel at the same time, but that's a personal call.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Have the codes read, but most likely it's a 4FA0 code, "clutch position deviation". This indicates a deviation between the clutch position value as read by the PLCD and the position value ordered by the SMG module.

There are several reasons this can occur but if you are only seeing it on Very cold mornings, it may be nothing more than the thicker (cold) hydraulic fluid's effects on the clutch control valve. If you have no problems after it warms up,it may never manifest more than that error.

I received that quite a bit when I first got my car at 60k miles and would leave the selector in 'N' while pumping the brakes a few times. This will cycle the clutch valve and put some heat into the fluid as well as cycle the clutch release bearing a few times in the event it's sticky and causing travel delay.

The other possibility for this error of course is the CRB and guide bushing are galling. This is cheap in parts but requires dropping the transmission to fix. Most people will elect to change the clutch and possibly flywheel at the same time, but that's a personal call.


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Nice info Jim..

i had no idea the brake pedal had any connection or effect on the clutch valve and release bearing?
 
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