Just wanted to share some pics I snapped while I had my throttle position sensors replaced.
First step was to remove the plenum cover. It is secured by a number of head bolts.
Subsequently, the ITB snorkels had to be removed.
The lower portion of the intake plenum has to removed as well.
Various vacuum lines and hoses has to be disconnected prior to the removal of the lower portion of the intake plenum.
Here you can see one of the TPS units, tucked very tightly between the firewall and the engine block.
Here's a pic of the other TPS unit, we had to remove the fuel rail covers to gain enough clearance to unscrew the TPS.
This is the tool we had to fabricate in order to access the bolts within the limited amount of space that we were working with.
Old vs. new (left - old, right - new)
This is not meant to be a DIY, as I was not the one who performed the work (senior tech here at the shop did). Just for your reference, hope it helps! :cheers:
nice. just did mine as well. ground down a phillip's bit, as well and didn't need to remove the fuel rail cover/cable ducting at all. from the looks of it, you didn't either, though i guess it would have given you more room to work (wasn't worth the time to me):
Interestingly, I replaced these on my engine about six months ago, and the first thing Mr. X noted when dyno tuning my car was that they were not responding to throttle position the way they should and "needed adjustment." I did not know that TPS could be "adjusted." Anyone know what Mr. X was talking about? Is there some sort of calibration procedure that needs to be performed after replacing these pups?
That's what I thought--adapting the pedal position sensor! But Mr. X said no, that voltage was correct at WOT and that it was the new TPS that were spitting out the wrong voltage.
On the drive home, my engine still kicked into limp mode and my throttle was very jerky whilst trying to maintain 65-80mph on the highway. It was doing this prior to the replacement as well.
I'll try the resetting pedal sensor procedure and do a bit more testing...but perhaps the new TPS requires some time to recalibrate with the system?
Although I was under the impression TPS sensors were plug and play.
uh oh. i hate that feeling. should just be "plug and play" as far as i know (not saying much--very new to the car--but i did read up a good bit on this procedure). i was getting codes and would get thrown into limp mode before the replacement, as well, but haven't had any problems since. then again, i didn't have a jerky throttle. not sounding like that was/is your primary problem (were you getting codes specific to the engine bay TPSs?)? what is the procedure for resetting the throttle pedal parameters?
Key in position two with engine off. Slowly but steadily depress accelerator until it is all the way to the floor. Turn key off. Let sit for 10 or so minutes. If that doesn't do it, repeat. Sometimes, I have had to do the foregoing, then slam the accelerator all the way to the floor and THEN turn off the key for 10 or so minutes before the PP sensor adapts. It's a sensitive little bugger and extremely difficult to replace. I know because I ultimately had to replace mine, and it took and entire afternoon, removal of the lower part of the dash, and lots of bleeding and cussing before I got it done.
nice. just did mine as well. ground down a phillip's bit, as well and didn't need to remove the fuel rail cover/cable ducting at all. from the looks of it, you didn't either, though i guess it would have given you more room to work (wasn't worth the time to me):
What if you wanted to remove the cable ducting for better clearance and to get a good look at the hoses underneath? I have searched for a couple of days to find the procedure to release the connectors that secure the cable ducts, and all I have found is a utube video that says to lift them straight up (tried one that way and it broke plastic) and another that states using dentist tools will release them, but no procedure.
I think this would be a valuable addition to this DIY.
Can anyone insert their knowledge and successful experience?
Anyone who has done their CPS is familiar with the brackets the wiring box/duct sits on as they have to be removed then. I think if you really wanted to move the wiring to unscrew TPS you could either remove those brackets or unplug the coils and it would move enough either way. Do it at the same time as either the CPS or spark plugs.
Maybe this isn't what you want to hear but I used a small, locking needle nose pliers to remove the old screws and replaced them with hex head bolts. Took maybe an hour. I initially tried the cut-off phillips bit but that still didn't fit well and was just rounding out the screw head anyway.
I have done my CPS and was successful without removing the cable duct that parallels the fuel rails. Each duct has 3 or 4 connectors with spring clips that are very difficult to get a good view of or any tools on.
Someone had mentioned going after the spring clips with a dentist's tool, an I have a good assortment of those tools, just can't figure out where to pick and apply pressure to remove these as they were designed to be removed.
On the drive home, my engine still kicked into limp mode and my throttle was very jerky whilst trying to maintain 65-80mph on the highway. It was doing this prior to the replacement as well.
I'll try the resetting pedal sensor procedure and do a bit more testing...but perhaps the new TPS requires some time to recalibrate with the system?
Although I was under the impression TPS sensors were plug and play.
Hope this hasn't been done before-but if so we're probably due for an update. All Beast owners sign in please, with details. After awhile Fais or Andy,who've done this kind of tally before, can break it down. I'll start-
///00 Imola/Caramel/Walnut
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Browsing youtube and came across this. Might be interesting to see which direction they take the rebuild...questionable lol
Maybe someone's car from the boards?
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