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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After doing this a few times to fully learn it, figured it may be useful to share the process with some tips and issues. This guide includes most basic information, but should be used to supplement the TIS document with some tips, and additional details that may not be clear or even mentioned in the TIS version.

To start out, the BMW throttle synchronization fixture is helpful, but you may also be able to do this with two standard magnetic dial gauge fixtures. If you do this, you want to make sure everything is secure and as square as possible or you'll likely be wasting your time. Given the tolerances, you'd be lucky to achieve success with Harbor Freight dial gauges or similar.

As reason for bothering, the cylinder 6 throttle on my m5 had began to strip the brass throttle actuation arm securing nut potentially from the 12 years of the motor torquing on it. Allowing the arm to twist just slightly introducing inconsistency into the system…

The Process Goals
Each throttle is individually zeroed from the factory (those black plastic nut covers). By synchronizing you are simply allowing all the throttles to achieve their individual zero with the interference caused by being attached to each other. On each bank, the pull rod throttle is essentially the master, that the others need to be set downstream from. This is why you do it in the specific order.

The Pre-Process
1. Remove cabin air filter channels to gain access to remove plenum.
2. Remove MAF to plenum tubes & oil separator tubes.
3. Remove upper plenum cover.
4. Remove throttle snorkels.
5. Unbolt lower plenum.
6. Loosen lower plenum oil hose clamps, disconnecting the front two (4X hoses from the front).
7. Remove the plenum, shaking loose the lower oil separator hoses.
8. Remove both throttle to plenum rubber gasket/mounts. If you are just trying to balance the banks to each other with the pull rods, you only need to remove the one on the side with adjustable pull rod. The cable ducts can remain in place.
9. Disconnect both pull rods from the throttle actuator motor side.

Syncing Process For the Banks
Now that everything is out of the way, time to start syncing the throttles.
1. Pull Bank 1 throttles up and screw in the adjustment screw between throttle 1 & 2 and 2 & 3.
2. Put the shims in between the space between the end stop to prevent the spring from expanding back into the gap. This will give you a couple mm of free movement on throttle 1 with respect to 2 and throttles 1 and 2 with respect to 3 and 4.
3. Now place the fixture and dial gauges on top of throttle 1 & 2 (or similar). You now want to open and close throttle 1 a few times, setting the dial gauge to zero at the throttles closed/stop point. Do the same with throttle 2. Since throttle 1 is dependent on 2, moving 2 farther can interfere with 1. Both should still come back to zero if your fixture and gauges are secure.
4. Now that you have found the individual zero for 1 & 2 it’s time to free the shim between 1 & 2. You do this by screwing the adjustment screw in.
5. At this point, unless you got extremely lucky one or both of throttle 1 & 2 will be off of zero on the gauge. Work the adjustment screw until both are zeroed again. You can be up to 0.01 mm away from the zero (two ticks on the large ring of the BMW gauges) and still be within spec, but it’s possible to get them right on.
6. Once zeroed, test them a few times by opening 1 & 2 gently by hand, making sure they go back to the zero. This is where I found one major bit of trouble. As it turns out, the movement of the throttles can very minutely unscrew the tip of your dial gauge, making your readings walk away from the zero. This is especially common later in the process. If you see this, pull the gauges and tighten them up, potentially even with some pliers to get it secure. Probably a good idea to restart the process if this happens.
7. With the shim still between 2 & 3, move the free shim to 3 & 4 using the adjustment screw.
8. Place the dial gauges on 3 & 4, and perform the same process to individually zero 3 & 4 while disconnected from each other and 1 & 2.
9. Remove the shim and complete the zero process between 3 & 4.
10. Now with groups 1 & 2 and 3 & 4 zeroed, it’s time to zero the two groups to each other. With the shim between 2 & 3 still in place, place the dial gauges and individually zero both 2 & 3 (1 & 4 will remain zeroed with respect to their neighbor, 2 & 3 respectively).
11. Once the dial gauges are zeroed, remove the shim, and use the adjustment screw to bring 2 & 3 back to zero on the gauges.
12. At this point, Bank 1 is completely zeroed. You now preform the same process on bank 2, just in a different order, since throttle 8 is equivalent to throttle 1 (opposite direction). Begin with 7 & 8, then 5 & 6, then 6 & 7 to bring the two groups and bank together.

Syncing the Banks to Each Other
1. Remove the adjustable pull rod entirely. Be very careful with this, as it is possible to destroy the throttle arm by putting too much pressure on the arm with the ball (held by the little gold nut with the locking wings wrapped around it).
2. Get the pull rod as close to 133mm from center to center of the ball caps (you can be up to +0.8 mm off, but might as well get it right).
3. Pop the arm back on to throttle 6, but keep it disconnected from the throttle actuator.
4. Using both fixtures, put the dial gauges on throttles 3 & 6.
5. Using the rod to open the throttle banks gently, individually zero both throttles 3 & 6 with the dial gauges.
6. Now attach the rods back onto the throttle actuator. You will likely see the dial gauges move a bit, but in my case they returned to zero at the motors resting point. Note, that the motor may have enough preload to push the throttles slightly past zero.
7. Adjust the pull rod as necessary to bring both back to zero. Note here, the throttles should be very close to zero with the adjustable rod set at 133mm. The shorter or longer you make the adjustable rod, the more you affect the speed at which one bank opens with respect to the other. This is why the next procedure with DIS gives you a spec for 1% throttle.

DIS Actuation Test
Since I don’t have a working DIS, I omitted this step given that it actually isn’t an adjustment step. It’s just a step that verifies the bank syncing went properly, and throttle movement hasn’t been negatively affected by adjustment. Doing this process many times, I found that the closer to 133mm the adjustable rod is (which actually was nearly exactly where my banks zeroed to each other on the motor), the more likely you are to be within specification for bank opening rates. If you have to adjust the adjustable pull many quarter turns, then this step may become more of a necessity to make sure you are still within the rate spec. You can also mimic this test by holding the motor open slightly by hand, and making sure each bank opens at the same rate from zero using the dial gauges on throttles 3 & 6.

The Caliper 100% Test
TIS is pretty murky on this task, but again this can be achieved without DIS running 100% to the motor. Basically all this step asks, is that the adjustable stop screw on the motor spindle plate corresponds with 24.2 mm +-0.5mm measured from the throttle butterfly to the maximum point of the upper (wider) throttle wall using Bank 2 only (Bank 1, is not used in this task, and may have a different spec). Just have someone hold the motor spindle against the stop while you measure this. Do not adjust anything other than the motor spindle stop hex screw in this task. This 24.2mm may not be perfectly consistent for each of throttle 5 through 8 because of their individual zeroes.

Hopefully this explains a bit about what to avoid when trying to interpret the TIS throttle sync process. Lot’s of these details are not clear in the doc, and took quite some time to figure out. It’s already long enough so feel free to ask questions for more detail.
 

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great job its a pain in the *** with that tool i had a tool made that i can see all 8 tbs all together makes it a breeze and very accurate look in diny thread you will see a partial pic when i did his car
 
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I just installed a set of Dinan TB's, and they came apart while installing. Started the car and it was idling rough. I'm not sure if something is messed up with the vacuum or if it's the TB's. So I may need to do this....

Where did you get the tool kit? I can't find anything on it by searching the number in the TIS document "13 0 150"
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I just installed a set of Dinan TB's, and they came apart while installing. Started the car and it was idling rough. I'm not sure if something is messed up with the vacuum or if it's the TB's. So I may need to do this....

Where did you get the tool kit? I can't find anything on it by searching the number in the TIS document "13 0 150"

There's a PDF out there that translates those 6-digit TIS codes to BMW part numbers called something like "Complete Special Tools Report". The throttle kit should be BMW PN: 83 30 0 493 453.

You can also complete this task using dial gauges and those magnetic arm fixtures, just more of a pain and need to be careful to get them lined up perpendicular to the butterfly.

As far as symptoms when they are off alignment, it can be a bit rough and surge-y. However, it's also very plausible it's down to vacuum, VANOS, or other systems that can cause some roughness. You can also take a look at INPA or similar and see how the adaptations differ between banks. A ways back my dealer suggested both should be the same, but I think it's normal for them to differ as long as they are reasonably close?
 

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Thank for the information !, but
Man what a sucky procedure. The Sync is based off the butterfly movement and not 'vacuum' ? I guess this makes a lot of assumptions about the vacuum between cylinders? Nothing like the motorcycle and Datsun SU carb syncs I used to have to do [:( another job I'm not looking forward to].
 

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There's a PDF out there that translates those 6-digit TIS codes to BMW part numbers called something like "Complete Special Tools Report". The throttle kit should be BMW PN: 83 30 0 493 453.

You can also complete this task using dial gauges and those magnetic arm fixtures, just more of a pain and need to be careful to get them lined up perpendicular to the butterfly.

As far as symptoms when they are off alignment, it can be a bit rough and surge-y. However, it's also very plausible it's down to vacuum, VANOS, or other systems that can cause some roughness. You can also take a look at INPA or similar and see how the adaptations differ between banks. A ways back my dealer suggested both should be the same, but I think it's normal for them to differ as long as they are reasonably close?
Thanks for the reply, I found the tool to order, but not really looking to buy it for a single job. I'll think it over as I really don't have much choice.

Yeah, I probably can use different dials, but I'd rather do this correct the first time.

I replaced almost all of the vacuum lines while doing this, with silicone hose and brass connections, so that shouldn't be the issue. I also installed headers on the car so the rest of the exhaust is missing and there are no O2 sensors plugged in. I cleared the codes and reset adaptations in INPA to see if that may help, but I really do think it's the TB's being out of balance.

The idle is very rough and the car stalls, I can try putting the pre-cat O2 sensors back in, but I don't think it'll do much.

Regardless of anything, I think I should sync the TB's because they came apart on me. And if it's still bad, I'll have to look elsewhere.

Sending you another PM
 

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Thanks for the reply, I found the tool to order, but not really looking to buy it for a single job. I'll think it over as I really don't have much choice.

Yeah, I probably can use different dials, but I'd rather do this correct the first time.

I replaced almost all of the vacuum lines while doing this, with silicone hose and brass connections, so that shouldn't be the issue. I also installed headers on the car so the rest of the exhaust is missing and there are no O2 sensors plugged in. I cleared the codes and reset adaptations in INPA to see if that may help, but I really do think it's the TB's being out of balance.

The idle is very rough and the car stalls, I can try putting the pre-cat O2 sensors back in, but I don't think it'll do much.

Regardless of anything, I think I should sync the TB's because they came apart on me. And if it's still bad, I'll have to look elsewhere.

Sending you another PM
If you buy the fixture, I'll buy it from you after you use it for a slight discount. Though I really like George's fixture that does all eight at once! George, want to replicate and sell yours?

--Peter
 

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If you buy the fixture, I'll buy it from you after you use it for a slight discount. Though I really like George's fixture that does all eight at once! George, want to replicate and sell yours?

--Peter
I'm waiting on a "Dinan-authorized" shop that apparently has it and quoted me 2hrs to get it done, which is cheaper than the tool. However, I'm on the verge of just buying it since it's been 3 days of phone tag where they have yet to tell me when to bring the car in. If I go this route, maybe we can split the cost and you can keep it once I'm done and if I need it again in the future?

Yeah, his tool is cool and would probably benefit your S62 shop, but he "doesn't want it copied". Maybe you'll have better luck with him.
 

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I'm waiting on a "Dinan-authorized" shop that apparently has it and quoted me 2hrs to get it done, which is cheaper than the tool. However, I'm on the verge of just buying it since it's been 3 days of phone tag where they have yet to tell me when to bring the car in. If I go this route, maybe we can split the cost and you can keep it once I'm done and if I need it again in the future?

Yeah, his tool is cool and would probably benefit your S62 shop, but he "doesn't want it copied". Maybe you'll have better luck with him.
Works for me!

--Peter
 

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if any of you guys want these tools i have two sets, in the box complete. factory bmw, not some aftermarket junk. you can buy them from me and rent them out when you're done. a few rentals should easily pay for the kit. idk what these are even worth as they dont seem to be available from bmw anymore so im still looking for a price to go by. let me know.
 

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if any of you guys want these tools i have two sets, in the box complete. factory bmw, not some aftermarket junk. you can buy them from me and rent them out when you're done. a few rentals should easily pay for the kit. idk what these are even worth as they dont seem to be available from bmw anymore so im still looking for a price to go by. let me know.
I know this was back in 2016.
Do you still have the tools?
How much?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

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I just discovered that a rat or some other animal got into the engine and completely chewed off the front wire on the bank 2 knock sensors so I need to replace the knock/ping sensor cable but I need to get access to the screw heads first for both the front and back sensors. It looks like I need to remove the throttle actuator as it's in the way of getting the rear screw/cabling off. Can I remove the actuator and re-install without having to go thru this synchronization step or am I screwed here in that I will have to go thru this just to replace the stupid knock sensor harness?
 

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First I sold the tools years ago. Second there is no need to sync the banks if just removing the actuator and re-installing it. You don't even need the tool to sync the banks, just DIS and two dial indicators.
 

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Can the throttle bodies be removed without affecting the synchronization?

I recently replaced all of the idle and evap hoses after I suspected a broken part # 13417830580 was causing my Bank 1 efficiency issues.

While in there I wanted to replace the o-rings between the throttle bodies (part #13411406378), but I didn't spend too much time investigating how the individual throttle bodies are connected.

I haven't had the bank 1 efficiency code return in the past 1500 miles, but I feel the o-rings for part # 13417830410 (the T-connector) may need replacing after I rotated it to install the hose.
 

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Can the throttle bodies be removed without affecting the synchronization?
They say no, but..... I did it with a check. I adjusted the activator rod just a bit and measured from the top of the body to the butterfly, I also measured before the adjustment. Then I replaced all the idle air orings by removing the bolts but not disconnecting anything having to do with the throttles. Put it back together, things measured the same. I also never noticed anything, but who knows.
 

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I'll just jime in with a quick question. Regarding the last post, i guess its possible to remove the whole Throttle bodies from one bank, replace the gasket beneath it and just screw it back on the head.

I never considered the O-rings between the throttle bodies. Should one replace these? Or is there usually not a problem with them?

And finally, the question i was actually going to ask: The throttle positioner (the thing in the middle which controls the individual throttle bodies). Can i remove it and install it again without having to sync the left and right bank (I am installing the same positioner again)?

Thank you
 

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The throttle positioner (the thing in the middle which controls the individual throttle bodies). Can i remove it and install it again without having to sync the left and right bank (I am installing the same positioner again)?
If you mean the actuator then yes replacing does not require sync even if it is a new one.
Tech anytime you even loosen a throttle you may have to re sync.They all open at the exact same time so must go back in exactly as they were, and one messes up the next ETC. I would say that unless you have a way to check things to make sure that things are the same you should count on doing the procedure. That is what I was trying to get across in the last post, I devised a way to check, not that I got away without doing the procedure.
 
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