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Discussion Starter #1
Yesterday, the M5 entered "Engine Failsafe" mode throwing several Peake codes (6B and E6) leading me to believe that one or both of the TPS sensors are shot. Obviously, I will be replacing both as I've heard it can be a difficult job. I've read that the tight fit with the philips screws which secure the TPS assemblies can be troublesome. Does anyone have the definitive solution for removing the screws? Thanks.
 

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Yesterday, the M5 entered "Engine Failsafe" mode throwing several Peake codes (6B and E6) leading me to believe that one or both of the TPS sensors are shot. Obviously, I will be replacing both as I've heard it can be a difficult job. I've read that the tight fit with the philips screws which secure the TPS assemblies can be troublesome. Does anyone have the definitive solution for removing the screws? Thanks.
I took my TB cover off and did it that way, much easier of a job. Did the code disappear and come back later?
 

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Before rushing into replacing the TPS's which usually generate very specific TPS codes when they go bad, google the 6B code to get more info. It indicates it's the throttle actuator motor in the valley between the heads that has gone bad.
 

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Did you at anytime notice lack of power? Perhaps 20% due to safety program?

I'm asking because I recently had it popped up after I replaced my oil level sensor/temp.

I remember when back in the day after Installing tps I had the car running very very strongly all the way from bottom rpm, she would break traction going wot in 2nd with clutch already engaged and it never happened again, it would get weaker and weaker. So I'm wondering if I got something spooky going on with my tps, I did buy them new however from my dealer. Hmmmmmmm


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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
My car had zero issues until I went to start it two days ago and it entered engine failsafe mode and threw the codes. Now it will not exit the reduced power mode even if I reset the faults. I did notice some throttle hesitation prior to this though. It won't rev over 3k and struggles to hit 30. I haven't driven it since as I am waiting for the TPS sensors to arrive.
 

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"Now it will not exit the reduced power mode even if I reset the faults. I did notice some throttle hesitation prior to this though. It won't rev over 3k and struggles to hit 30. "

when that exact issue happened to me, it was the fuel pump.
 

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DME 01 DME: DRIVER/FUEL PUMP RELAY
DME 39 DME: SIGNAL, AIR-MASS FLOW SENSOR LEFT
DME 29 DME: SIGNAL, AIR-MASS FLOW SENSOR RIGHT

and about 10 other bullshit codes for instrument cluster & seat heaters, automatic headlighs....etc..

so long story in short version, i changed both MAFs, throttle position sensors, spark plugs, fuel filter, fuel pump relay before i realized it was my fuel pump. i was at about 135,000 miles, so it was time.
 

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I have no idea what it is. I have been involved in a couple with this code and been wrong. I am not sure what the best approach is. Although it points to the actuator it is not that always. Inspection is likely the best thing first. That would be voltage readings from both TPS. One starts at a high voltage and falls the other starts low and rises. Sorry forget the range 1-5 likely.
One of the cars had two equally bad TPS so the DME thought it was the actuator.
Next with the key in 2 (not running) and the plenum off have someone push the pedal and watch the actuator. Another car had a left over tool interfering. Could be allot of things.

BTW I do have a answer to the screw driver question. It is a Euro phillips which is not the same as a US phillips. It is the same as a drywall screw driver bit and if I remember correctly it is a P2R bit. A standard Phillips is PH2. It is the angle of the tip that is different and the P2R will fit well in both screw types the PH2 makes poor contact with the top of the Euro screw and strips it.
So a drywall bit an a 1/4 ratchet wrench is a good combo for the job. Hot melt the bit in and use rubbing alcohol to remove the glue.
 

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Fault 6B does not necessarily point to a failed actuator. All 6B signifies is that there is a failure in the pre-drive check of the drive-by-wire-system. I will start with the TPS sensors.

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/133429-peake-code-6b-pre-drive-check-drive-wire-system.html
Interesting. With the close monitoring the DME does of the TPS's, I would have expected specific TPS codes like 76/77/78 if the problem was with the TPS's. Let us know if the new ones fix the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I am about halfway through the install process. Calling it quits for tonight. Those philips screws sure are a PITA to remove. I ended up using needle nose pliers and they eventually came out. Also replaced the philips with hex bolts but am unable to torque them down properly until I get the right hex keys that are short enough to fit in the confined space.
 

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BTW I do have a answer to the screw driver question. It is a Euro phillips which is not the same as a US phillips. It is the same as a drywall screw driver bit and if I remember correctly it is a P2R bit. A standard Phillips is PH2. It is the angle of the tip that is different and the P2R will fit well in both screw types the PH2 makes poor contact with the top of the Euro screw and strips it.
I may well be wrong but I thought it was a PZ2 (PZ = Pozidrive), although I don't know how close that is to a P2R (not familiar with that - I must have a look at some UK drywall screws and see what they are). It's definitely not a standard Phillips as you say.

The PZ has extra tiny "splines" in the head and the bit which engage. The PH will fit, but will bump out much more easily than the PZ and chew the head in the process. (Apparently the PH is designed to bump out at a torque below that required to shear the screw. With a power screwdriver and a PZ bit, it's quite easy to tighten a PZ woodscrew to the point where the head remains firmly attached to the bit but snaps clean off the screw........DAMHIKT.)

Either way when I replaced my TPSs on one of them I resorted to non-approved engineering methods - crunched up the plastic casing of the TPS and it was then easy to get the screws out of the remaining bushes. But please don't hold that against me.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
68FB, you were exactly right regarding the throttle actuator. Finished replacing the TPS sensors and it is indeed the actuator. Still entering failsafe mode, throwing codes E6/6B and running off of the ICV. Oh well, it sure will drive nicely when everything is fixed :). Thank you for the help everyone.
 
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