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Discussion Starter #21
So I made a mistake on the pins for the new connector. I would edit my post if I could. You actually need 6 of 61136931880 and 61138366245 each. I forgot that the throttle pedal uses a sealed conductor.

You can get equivalent items at mouser as well:

Pins: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/2141826-1?qs=/ha2pyFaduhe2huhDfopXV7MjqfTYogA45GHdbLe3iA=

Seals: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/967067-1?qs=/ha2pyFadui5uKp%2BlGX2LLs03aKbcTlfvhwCkt7fj90=
I'm guessing the reason it needs to be a sealed connector is the potential for a wet shoe to drip water onto the connector? Do those sealing grommets also work with the pre-crimped pins? (part # 61130005197)



934028
 

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Discussion Starter #23
The sealing grommets are crimped to the wire with the connector.

Part number for the pre crimped pin with grommet is 61130005199


Right. Forgot about that. Thanks for the part number.
 

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I'm guessing the reason it needs to be a sealed connector is the potential for a wet shoe to drip water onto the connector? Do those sealing grommets also work with the pre-crimped pins? (part # 61130005197)
Yeah you need them because of the potential for water from wet shoes etc - and that connector style is meant to take the sealed contacts anyway. The pre-crimped wire linked to in the next post would work.

Though at that point it might make more sense to grab as much of the wiring as you can off a junkyard car and solder that to the other end of the harness you want to use.
 

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So I was comparing the Z8 tune (which comes with the floor mounted DBW pedal) vs the E39 M5 tune, and found a couple values that you should probably change when upgrading pedals:

Screen Shot 2020-01-07 at 1.59.54 AM.png


For the K_PWG1_NORM parameter, I confirmed the Z8 value matches the E46 M3 value.

I'm not sure what the map does - E46 M3 has it set to 0.2 for every cell.

This also means the 540s/740s that upgrade the pedal should probably flash a tune from the newer versions. Or at least identify the slope values in the tune and adjust them there.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
So I was comparing the Z8 tune (which comes with the floor mounted DBW pedal) vs the E39 M5 tune, and found a couple values that you should probably change when upgrading pedals:

View attachment 934241

For the K_PWG1_NORM parameter, I confirmed the Z8 value matches the E46 M3 value.

I'm not sure what the map does - E46 M3 has it set to 0.2 for every cell.

This also means the 540s/740s that upgrade the pedal should probably flash a tune from the newer versions. Or at least identify the slope values in the tune and adjust them there.
Which software did you use to do that? I actually have a tune now (Alex @ PE did the tune), so not sure if this is something the tuner needs to do.

I haven't actually installed the pedal yet. Waiting on a few more parts.
 

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Which software did you use to do that? I actually have a tune now (Alex @ PE did the tune), so not sure if this is something the tuner needs to do.

I haven't actually installed the pedal yet. Waiting on a few more parts.
The software pictured is TunerPro using an XDF built for the newest MSS52 program variants. If Alex is willing to do minor mods for you, he could probably figure out what to change based on my post alone. If you want to do it yourself, you'll need to read your tune from your DME, and then you'll either need the XDF (I could have sworn a copy was floating around somewhere on this board), or you can just make the changes yourself with a hex editor.
 

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So after more investigation, option B if you don't want to mess with the tune would be to get an automatic pedal, remove the kickdown clicker from inside, and use that. The voltage range on the automatic pedal is pretty close to what you see in a stock M5 by my calculations
 

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Would the kickdown clicker module be plug-n-play on the accelerator? I have the pedal and the harness, was about to try this.
 

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Would the kickdown clicker module be plug-n-play on the accelerator? I have the pedal and the harness, was about to try this.
Assuming we’re talking about the floor mounted dbw pedals, the kickdown clicker is simply a button with no electrical action. The cars that have a kickdown function determine whether they should enter kickdown mode purely based on throttle position. The clicker is there purely for tactile purposes.

A manual pedal rests at 0.7v and peaks at 4.15v. An automatic pedal rests at 0.7v, reaches 4.15v right before the kickdown button, and hits 4.55v with the kickdown fully depressed. If one were to remove the clicker from inside the pedal assembly, then the pedal would operate from 0.7 - 4.55v smoothly.

Hooking it up to an M5 would require the harness adapter as described earlier in this thread.
 

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The plan for me was to first make a complete adapter using the connector above coupled with a female connector for the other side to just plug the original accelerator connector. Im not sure there is one, as it's on the accelerator, I think (haven't looked yet) and haven't found one yet. I'm guessing there is, maybe not.

I could probably pin in or crimp/solder, otherwise. Make the setup easily switchable, back to original. I probably start looking into it.
 

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The plan for me was to first make a complete adapter using the connector above coupled with a female connector for the other side to just plug the original accelerator connector. Im not sure there is one, as it's on the accelerator, I think (haven't looked yet) and haven't found one yet. I'm guessing there is, maybe not.

I could probably pin in or crimp/solder, otherwise. Make the setup easily switchable, back to original. I probably start looking into it.
Post 18 has everything you need to build a complete adapter. The 8-pin blue connector would plug into the existing car harness. The 6-pin would go into the new pedal.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I successfully completed this mod on my M5 today. It wasn't too difficult and I didn't hit any real snags. I ended up having Alex @ Performance Eurowerks revise my tune to include the changes that terra posted. I'm not going to say it made a huge difference but the throttle is slightly sharper and generally just very smooth. Throttle blips on downshifts are very nice. I took some pictures along the way so I will try to post a DIY soon. Thanks to terra and everyone else who helped by posting part numbers, pinouts, etc.
 
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