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You will find some useful threads on e60.net. However, the consensus is that BMW does such a good job isolating the trunk from the passenger cabin that any trunk mounted sub is only useful for rattling your license plate and outside listeners... you won't hear it inside the cabin. The best solution to upgrade the Bass is to replace the weak Logic7 sub amp with a higher output model and just tap into the factory harness or build a harness adapter. If you really want, you can also replace the under seat subs with models from Earthquake which are the only drop in replacements available.
 

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I am in the process of adding 2 Image Dynamics IDMAX 12D4s to my M5 powered by a Rockford Fosgate T1001bd amplifier. The Logic7 DOES NOT have a remote-turn-on lead on the factory amplifier (contrary to many confusing threads on the topic on E60.net), so I ordered this LOC that has a built-in remote-turn-on lead based on signal sensing (P.I.E. PDC-LOC-T 2-Channel 75W Line Output Converter w/ Amp Trigger) and will be finishing the install this weekend. I'll be sure to take a lot of pictures to help others interested in doing the same.
 

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The remote trigger sounds very interesting and I am glad u found something like this.
I called this place up and they told me that if u want to hook it up directly to the line before it is amplified by the stock amp you should use this item over here Soundgate LOCB.2 Bose Line Output Converter
It automatically adjusts all signlals to 2.5v rms out which is what you want. And you would have to buy the remote trigger sep. P.I.E. 1VT Low Voltage Trigger
This can be wired in before the converter to trigger the amp to turn on every time there is sound coming from the speakers and to turn it off when the stereo is off.


What I really want to do is tap into the same wire the stock subwoofers get their signal from and use that as the wire to hook up to my aftermarket amp. I think that this is possible and will eliminate the need for using a converter; i think high low converters lower the quality and increase distortion. Do you have any idea if that is possible to do? (find the subwoofer wires before they are amplified by the stock amp and tap into them - this has to be possible, its not like BMW came up with a new way to power their speakers) Even if its not an RCA wire, it still has a + and -



BTW There is no way you will install a powerful sub into your trunk and not hear it. I think that the problem is that the people who have tried it did not use a powerful enough subwoofer. Go on bassforms.com order the custom molded subwoofer enclosure for the 5 series that fits nicely in the side compartment where your net is in the trunk and drop a nice 10 inch JLw6 or 7 sub powered by a nice amp and you will hear everything.
 

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The remote trigger sounds very interesting and I am glad u found something like this.
I called this place up and they told me that if u want to hook it up directly to the line before it is amplified by the stock amp you should use this item over here Soundgate LOCB.2 Bose Line Output Converter
It automatically adjusts all signlals to 2.5v rms out which is what you want. And you would have to buy the remote trigger sep. P.I.E. 1VT Low Voltage Trigger
This can be wired in before the converter to trigger the amp to turn on every time there is sound coming from the speakers and to turn it off when the stereo is off.


What I really want to do is tap into the same wire the stock subwoofers get their signal from and use that as the wire to hook up to my aftermarket amp. I think that this is possible and will eliminate the need for using a converter; i think high low converters lower the quality and increase distortion. Do you have any idea if that is possible to do? (find the subwoofer wires before they are amplified by the stock amp and tap into them - this has to be possible, its not like BMW came up with a new way to power their speakers) Even if its not an RCA wire, it still has a + and -



BTW There is no way you will install a powerful sub into your trunk and not hear it. I think that the problem is that the people who have tried it did not use a powerful enough subwoofer. Go on bassforms.com order the custom molded subwoofer enclosure for the 5 series that fits nicely in the side compartment where your net is in the trunk and drop a nice 10 inch JLw6 or 7 sub powered by a nice amp and you will hear everything.
If you have a Logic7 system, you cannot intercept the line output of the factory headunit. The signal comes from the factory headunit in optical format so there is no easy way to access/intercept it. You must use the amplified signal going to the two subwoofers (four wires) on the factory Logic7 amp behind the driver's rear wheelwell. One could simply tap one subwoofer (two wires) and split the signal, but I thought it best to balance any additional "load" on the signal to each sub. This intercepted signal is fed into the LOC that I posted earlier which, when an audio signal is present, will give a 12V signal to turn on your aftermarket amplifier.

This is by far the easiest way to add a subwoofer to a Logic7 system, at least in theory. If all goes to plan, I'll be done with the install on Saturday and will post pictures and descriptions to help others.

And yes, those who complain about the bass not getting into the cabin have very weak systems. The amplifier I am using is rated at 1,500W RMS at 1 ohm. Additionally, I have the ski pass that I will experiment with and if I notice a substantial improvement in bass loudness and quality, I will just drive with the ski pass open most of the time.
 

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In that case I better cancel my order and get that thing you originally recommended. Do you have a wiring chart for the stock subwoofer wires by any chance?
I saw people posting it earlier but some diagrams were different and I am not sure which are for speakers and which are for subs.
 

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In that case I better cancel my order and get that thing you originally recommended. Do you have a wiring chart for the stock subwoofer wires by any chance?
I saw people posting it earlier but some diagrams were different and I am not sure which are for speakers and which are for subs.
Yes, cancel your order, but hold off on ordering my part until I actually get everything installed and working on Saturday just in case I run into any more problems. I don't anticipate any, but you know how that goes...

Yes, there is a wiring diagram that exists (posted below) but the colors of the wires conflict with others' accounts. It is merely a confusion of positive and negative which isn't a major problem as you can simply swap the RCAs or the "phase" switch on your amp. The Logic7 wiring colors are different than below except for the four "to speaker" wires noted below. I tapped them using wire taps like these (I used blue but the wires are pretty thick, so I'd recommend using the yellow) Parts Express:3M (12-10) Wire Taps Yellow 25 Pcs.

 

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So you are saying that the white/violet remote on/off lead that is in the diagram is not present on the Logic 7 system? That sux if it is so.

I changed my order. I will be away this weekend so hopefully next week I will install this system. It would be awsome if you can put up pictures. Looking forward to see them.
 

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So you are saying that the white/violet remote on/off lead that is in the diagram is not present on the Logic 7 system? That sux if it is so.

I changed my order. I will be away this weekend so hopefully next week I will install this system. It would be awsome if you can put up pictures. Looking forward to see them.
Correct, there is a black/violet wire but it is a speaker wire. I'm fairly sure the amp uses the optical signal as a remote turn on.
 

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Piano man, did you install your system? Im excited to see it. I will probably start working on my system this week. I just received my sub and amp, waiting on the custom bassforms sub enclosure.
 

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Here are a couple pictures. I'm still experimenting with levels and such trying to find the best sound. The bass from the aftermarket subs is a bit too loud at low volumes which I think is due to the factory subs' levels being on a graduated scale (to give the illusion of more bass with the factory system at low volumes) as opposed to linear like the rest of the speakers. I have a remote bass knob run to the area next to my seat so I can adjust the volume which helps with this. Otherwise, everything pretty much went to plan. The wiring isn't quite as neat as I'd like it to be. I need to shorten the ground wire a bit. There is a cover over all the connections on the amplifier now. The bass is very loud if I want it to be. The trunk rattles very badly with bass-heavy rap songs (which I hardly listen to). I was already expecting this, so I'll be doing Dynamat Extreme in the trunk (to be hidden by the factory trim on the trunk lid and quarter panels) which should help immensely with the rattling and also provide a bit more impact with the bass. I've been keeping the ski pass open which also seems to help bring a bit more presence of the bass through to the cabin. I'm eagerly awaiting some independent reviews of the BSW replacement speakers as my hard driving rock (what I mosty listen to) tends to distort the factory speakers at high volumes. I think I'll also replace the underseat subs eventually and amplify them using an additional amplifier I removed from my last car. Anyways, without further ado, here are the pictures:





 

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Piano man so I did the install the same u did it. Thanx for the pix. The diagram was a lot of help. I have bene driving around with this setup with 2 weeks already and I like it. I have a 10inch eclipse sub which is very powerful. I was able to remove the cd changer brackets since I dont have a cd changer in my trunk and I shoved my whole amp in there - so its completely hidden.

I had major issues with that hi/lo converter which u are using...it didnt keep my amp on, it just went on and off when the bass came through. So I wired it to the auxilary socket in the trunk (works great)

I lowered the sensitivity on the amp way down and turned the bass boost way up...this way only the real bass is picked up and no unnecessary mid-bass. I must say the system sounds perfect as long as you adjust the volumes.

The real problem happens once you start messing with the volume on the hed unit. For instance - once u start cranking the volume up, the aftermarket subwoofer bass doesnt increase... I believe this is due to the stock amp which in my opinion is triamped (can you confirm this?)---It basically is made to be used with the stock speakers and therfore adjusts the volume for those speakers once it is too high in order to avoid blowing the stock speaker or sub.

I found a solution for this - clean sweep from JL - it basically takes all of the stock signals and outputs them all at perfect line level. <---has anyone tried this?
 

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Piano man so I did the install the same u did it. Thanx for the pix. The diagram was a lot of help. I have bene driving around with this setup with 2 weeks already and I like it. I have a 10inch eclipse sub which is very powerful. I was able to remove the cd changer brackets since I dont have a cd changer in my trunk and I shoved my whole amp in there - so its completely hidden.

I had major issues with that hi/lo converter which u are using...it didnt keep my amp on, it just went on and off when the bass came through. So I wired it to the auxilary socket in the trunk (works great)

I lowered the sensitivity on the amp way down and turned the bass boost way up...this way only the real bass is picked up and no unnecessary mid-bass. I must say the system sounds perfect as long as you adjust the volumes.

The real problem happens once you start messing with the volume on the hed unit. For instance - once u start cranking the volume up, the aftermarket subwoofer bass doesnt increase... I believe this is due to the stock amp which in my opinion is triamped (can you confirm this?)---It basically is made to be used with the stock speakers and therfore adjusts the volume for those speakers once it is too high in order to avoid blowing the stock speaker or sub.

I found a solution for this - clean sweep from JL - it basically takes all of the stock signals and outputs them all at perfect line level. <---has anyone tried this?
Yes, I think the factory sub output volume is not linear to give the illusion of more bass at lower listening volumes from the factory subs. This has a tendency to be annoying a low listening volumes when an aftermarket subwoofer is added in the method described (without some kind of device similar to the JL Clean Sweep). I have a remote bass knob for my amp mounted next to the driver's seat to adjust the volume which works for me for now.

I recently received the SWS 8" subs to replace the factory ones. I will be using a Polk 4-channel amp bridged to produce 200W RMS into each sub. I will be intercepting the factory subwoofer wires right after where I tapped them and connecting them to the Polk amp.

I also went ahead and purchased the BSW Stage 1 audio upgrade which I just received yesterday. I'm hoping to find time to do all this work this weekend.

Also, the trunk definitely needs to be Dynamatted. I also have that waiting and ready to install.
 

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I didnt even know they made a kits like that (stage 1). How are u going to fix the subwoofer problem tho - do you think BSW can sell their special converter which they use when hooking up their own aftermarket sub? Im sure they have some device because it is in the picture next to the sub. If we can get our hands on that I believe it could be the answer to our problem.
 

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I didnt even know they made a kits like that (stage 1). How are u going to fix the subwoofer problem tho - do you think BSW can sell their special converter which they use when hooking up their own aftermarket sub? Im sure they have some device because it is in the picture next to the sub. If we can get our hands on that I believe it could be the answer to our problem.
It's not severe enough to bother me. I have my sub volume control next to my seat. If I'm listening to the music really loud, I turn up the sub volume. Otherwise, I keep it turned down and it works well enough for me (for now). If after everything is in it bothers me, I may look into another solution.
 

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i dont know if ill ever put a sound system in the m6 but i deff will in the cayenne tts
 

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Hi Piano man,
I got a new car e70 m, decided to put a system in it like i did with the 5 series. Went back to this thread to look at the pictures but they are all gone. I figured that it should be the same exact system and the wiring guide should be the same. Do you still have the wiring diagram or pictures of how u did your install?
 

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Yes, cancel your order, but hold off on ordering my part until I actually get everything installed and working on Saturday just in case I run into any more problems. I don't anticipate any, but you know how that goes...

Yes, there is a wiring diagram that exists (posted below) but the colors of the wires conflict with others' accounts. It is merely a confusion of positive and negative which isn't a major problem as you can simply swap the RCAs or the "phase" switch on your amp. The Logic7 wiring colors are different than below except for the four "to speaker" wires noted below. I tapped them using wire taps like these (I used blue but the wires are pretty thick, so I'd recommend using the yellow) Parts Express:3M (12-10) Wire Taps Yellow 25 Pcs.

Piano man, do you still have this wiring diagram? I cant see the pictures anymore. Trying to do another install in a new e70.
Thanks in advance!
 

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Yes, cancel your order, but hold off on ordering my part until I actually get everything installed and working on Saturday just in case I run into any more problems. I don't anticipate any, but you know how that goes...

Yes, there is a wiring diagram that exists (posted below) but the colors of the wires conflict with others' accounts. It is merely a confusion of positive and negative which isn't a major problem as you can simply swap the RCAs or the "phase" switch on your amp. The Logic7 wiring colors are different than below except for the four "to speaker" wires noted below. I tapped them using wire taps like these (I used blue but the wires are pretty thick, so I'd recommend using the yellow) Parts Express:3M (12-10) Wire Taps Yellow 25 Pcs.

Piano man, do you still have this wiring diagram? I cant see the pictures anymore. Trying to do another install in a new e70.
Thanks in advance!
 
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