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Discussion Starter #1
So i cleaned out my garage this weekend, bought a new tool chest and work bench and decided that i should do some work on the car...Hmm what is nice and quick, hey lets clean the MAFs like they say to on the goddamned interweb:

Used electrical cleaner and q tips...

Not a good idea, reduced power, misfires, wont drive etc...put it away for the night, went home for lunch thinking maybe it just needed some time and it drove just horrible; actually stalled a couple times...get this thing home quick, then it started to run fine with the exception of the reduced power warning, increased emissions, and the redline thing limiting to 6000.

What have i done?
 

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I've used electrical cleaner before without an issue, but I never used q-tips I always just sprayed directly on the element. They have special mass air flower cleaner at Autozone they sell which is only for mafs you could try using that without q-tips and letting it dry before reinstall and see if it fixes the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Screwy thing is apart from the warnings and reduced redline, it seems to be running fine?
 

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We're going to see many more of these problems coming from folks who use oiled air filters as they gum up the MAF sensor over time, along with the intake manifold.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I read codes and there seemed to be a "Bank 1" common thread...Passenger side: Bought some MAF specific cleaner, tried that, no love...I have a spare E39 M5 Maf: hooked it up and rand tests; no errors...cleared everything and fired her up all good...need 1 passenger side MAF. Dont intend to drive the car with two diff MAFs...but all errors are clear!
 

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Sorry for you troubles. I'm curious, what are the advantages of cleaning the MAFs?
If there is buildup on it (oil, dirt, etc) it will change the readings back to the ECU which will impact the air/fuel ratio. Generally you don't want to touch the MAF unless you think there is an issue, for the reasons in this thread. I have seen people not touch the sensor and still kill a MAF with just electronics cleaner. They're very sensitive (and not terribly cheap) so I wouldn't screw with it unless you have a reason to.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Now i know...

If there is buildup on it (oil, dirt, etc) it will change the readings back to the ECU which will impact the air/fuel ratio. Generally you don't want to touch the MAF unless you think there is an issue, for the reasons in this thread. I have seen people not touch the sensor and still kill a MAF with just electronics cleaner. They're very sensitive (and not terribly cheap) so I wouldn't screw with it unless you have a reason to.
i've learned this already, but it seems that sometimes i have a goldfish like memory: If you get an idea from the internet, check in
to it thorougly before proceeding, read as many posts on the subject as possible, if i had done so i would have learned (right on this board) not to do any sort of mechanical cleaning of the MAFS...
 
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Well that stuffs me up..........
My BMC filters are due for a clean and oil (lightly), and I thought I may as well clean the MAFS as suggested on another thread using CRC MAF cleaner. But I don't think I want to do that now...........
 

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Marth06, go ahead and clean them, just spray them down with CRC cleaner, no fears! Unless your sensors have crud on them you will feel no difference, just a good thing to do as a preventative maintenance. I do this every 4 months, no problems! 10 minute job. Have you noticed any difference in fuel economy or performance when using the BMC filter over a stock filter with charcoal filter delete? Ever do an engine oil analysis with stock filter, and then BMC?
 

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Well that stuffs me up..........
My BMC filters are due for a clean and oil (lightly), and I thought I may as well clean the MAFS as suggested on another thread using CRC MAF cleaner. But I don't think I want to do that now...........
Do not worry. I use CRC MAF cleaner all the time. What happened to the OP is he used a Q-tip to touch the element you're not supposed to do that. Just a simple spray down and air dry will do the job. I would recommend cleaning the MAFs the same time you re-oil your filters.

Another note on the re-oil get the BMC oil kit that isn't the spray can, but the squeeze bottle. In my opinion I find it easier to evenly apply to the air filter than using the aerosol can. After oiling I let both filters sit on top of a paper towel to let any excess oil drip through before reinstalling.

OP did you get your new MAF in?
 

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Do not worry. I use CRC MAF cleaner all the time. What happened to the OP is he used a Q-tip to touch the element you're not supposed to do that. Just a simple spray down and air dry will do the job. I would recommend cleaning the MAFs the same time you re-oil your filters.

Another note on the re-oil get the BMC oil kit that isn't the spray can, but the squeeze bottle. In my opinion I find it easier to evenly apply to the air filter than using the aerosol can. After oiling I let both filters sit on top of a paper towel to let any excess oil drip through before reinstalling.

OP did you get your new MAF in?


Agreed, agreed..... CRC MAF cleaner a and no touch. BMC non aerosols kit is boobs. However I have a bigger concern regarding your MAF's Tortuga.....

Why the F are you still using them? Why have you not gone Evolve Alpha - N yet. Now you are going to purchase two new OEM parts that will not help you go faster or improve your performance in any way. You could have put that money into a tune.

It's still not to late to make a substantial investment into your fun.....
 
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