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The back of my seat & the vertical height adjustment seam to be fine. However, the forward motion (moving the drivers seat towards the steering wheel) seam to be off. The right side of my lumbar support is closer to the dash then the left side of my lumbar support.

In other words it seams that my right knee when driving is now closer to the dash then my left knee is. Do you fellas understand what I'm saying & can I fix this motor issue with this cable fix... ? I'm assuming not since this type of adjustment (simply moving the seat closer & farther to the dash) requires the seat to move a long the big steel rails the 2 front seat are attached to... :lightbulb:
 

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The back of my seat & the vertical height adjustment seam to be fine. However, the forward motion (moving the drivers seat towards the steering wheel) seam to be off. The right side of my lumbar support is closer to the dash then the left side of my lumbar support.

In other words it seams that my right knee when driving is now closer to the dash then my left knee is. Do you fellas understand what I'm saying & can I fix this motor issue with this cable fix... ? I'm assuming not since this type of adjustment (simply moving the seat closer & farther to the dash) requires the seat to move a long the big steel rails the 2 front seat are attached to... :lightbulb:
I never looked into the horizontal motion controls, since my issue was the height and recline adjustment, but if it's like the other motors, you could try to just unplug one of the cables and adjust it until looks straight to you.

Any idea on how it could have been out of alignment, outside of someone messing with it?
 

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still hoping that someone who has done this repair will record a DIY vid for posterity :D
 

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Used Doc$'s method to repair my seat today. However, since I had good access to the drive cable in question, I was able to complete the repair without removing the seat. Heat gun proved very handy for this job. Thanks again for the DIY post.
 

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Used Doc$'s method to repair my seat today. However, since I had good access to the drive cable in question, I was able to complete the repair without removing the seat. Heat gun proved very handy for this job. Thanks again for the DIY post.
How hard was it to do & how long did it take you?? Mine just broke today in the fully reclined position. Only the left side of the back seat raises forward & the right side of the seat does not. It's twists the back frame like a mofo... ;-(
 

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My suggestion is remove the seat from the car, but be careful for airbag light issues when you take it out.

Once the seat is out, it is pretty easy to do. Heat up the cable end, pull it off, cut about 3/8" or 7/16" of the tube, heat and reinstall the end piece. Getting the seat back aligned is the tough part.

I recall I took a few male spade terminals on some jumper wires and used my jumper box so I could easily power the seat while I had it out of the car to make adjustments and check the alighnment?
 

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Today I just fixed the passenger seat recline and rear height. Right side was frozen in both cases. The rear height was all the way down but fortunately I could raise the front height all the way. Removing the (4) torx bolts lets the seat tilt back for better access, and the (2) motors and cables are close to the front of the seat. I was able to leave the seat in the car with seat belt, power connector, and tensioner wire left intact. The right side problem case is easier with the seat in the car as the cables are much more accessable than those that drive the left side of the seat.

I used the "middle of the cable" sheath cut method (cut out approx. 0.5 in.) and used heatshrink tubing (3/8) to cover the cut and keep the sections joined. Many thanks to Doc$ and all those who provided details for this awesome thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #51

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Thanks to this DIY I got through fixing my twisted drivers seat and passengers seat. Terabass' video made it look so easy when it wasn't so easy for me at first.

Let's just say I almost had a bit of a panic attack when my drivers seat was completely twisted and wouldn't even sit level on the floor of the car(I removed only the front bolts) after cutting the first 1cm of rubber around one of the cables. It turned out I cut around the wrong one lol and made it twist even more. I thought I actually bent the seat rails lol. At that point I left it as is last night to try again today with a fresh start and positive thinking.

I found that after cutting the rubber surrounds, the key is to pull the cable out to disengage, get the seat lined up and actually sit in it to see if it feels right and then push the cable back in to feed the cable to the motor and test the movement and you will be good to go.

I completed fixing 2 cables on my drivers seat and also one on my passenger (didn't know about until I tested it today) and man it felt good to get it back to normal. I did the passenger side with the seat in place without removing any bolts and did it in under 10 minutes. Easy as pie after you get the idea behind it all.
 

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Has anyone had to work on the thigh support? My passenger side thigh support extends but does not retract. It seems to be a bar that extends rather than a cable, but I don't want to start tearing out the seat if it's a simpler fix.
 

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i just did right side of my passenger seat
i used this video

BMW Seat Twist Repair.$0 cost.ACTUAL REPAIR of twisted seat!!! e39,e34 - YouTube

took me 2H , the most difficult part was to remove the seat , this thing is heavy !

My suggestion is to remove the seat from the car , once the seat is out you can do it right and easy on both sides

And NO this job is not 10 min work or you want to redo again and again

GL
 

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i just did right side of my passenger seat
i used this video

BMW Seat Twist Repair.$0 cost.ACTUAL REPAIR of twisted seat!!! e39,e34 - YouTube

took me 2H , the most difficult part was to remove the seat , this thing is heavy !

My suggestion is to remove the seat from the car , once the seat is out you can do it right and easy on both sides

And NO this job is not 10 min work or you want to redo again and again

GL
Glad you got through it but you didn't have to remove the seat and you didn't need to disconnect the wire from the motor as in the video! All you had to do was find the correct cable and cut out 1 cm or so of the plastic/hard rubber jacket around the wire, level out the seat by pulling out the cable and re-feed the cable to the motor and tape it up. So, yes, it could have taken you 10 minutes.

It took me longer on my drivers side seat as I had to take care of 2 cables after I first cut the wrong one and twisted my seat further, but it took me less than 10 minutes to fix my passenger side tilt after I knew what I was doing.

:)
 

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Wow, this would have saved me so much frustration. Just found this thread. Had this on both my front seats. I band-aid fixed them but they failed again. Now I will do it properly, or at least, effectively. Thanks everyone.
 

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Thanks to this thread I fixed both seats today. Props to those that could do this fix with the seats still bolted to the car. There was just no way for me to do it that way. I had to do the fix on both cables of both seats. I unbolted the seats and the seat-belt tensioner and just leaned the seats back with never even taking them out of the car. The first seat took me about an hour and the second seat 45 minutes. Seats work great now!!!

Before I did the fix myself I went to my local repair shop to see what they would charge......curious mostly. They gave me an estimate of $375 per seat so in my case it would have been $750. This included replacing both cables in each seat plus labor. This is why I love this forum!!! Just a side-note, Torx bit 45 was needed for the bolts.
 

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Related to this DIY which I performed back in summer 2012, I was wondering if anyone has ever had to deal with a non-functioning spool under the seat that keeps the Bowden cable tight used for the auto seatbelt height?

When I did this DIY, I think I pulled the cable too far and it fails to retract into the spool. The spool is seen here in picture #9+10:

Replaced bowden cable for seat belt height adjustment yesterday. Sort of an easy

It is no longer taut. Is there a way to fix this or should I just replace the spool part?
 
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