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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys!:byee55amg

I'm pretty new to the forums and to the E39 M5 I have owned many bmw's and so far sticking to the brand!
Right off the bat I'll let you know that this isn't a crazy horsepower build, or any unique build projects.

My biggest project was my e36 Active Autowerkes supercharged M52
http://postimg.org/image/5pveu27ij/


http://postimg.org/image/406z26nwn/



Right off the bat I'll let you know that this isn't a crazy horsepower build, or any unique build projects.


The M5 has been on my must have list and i thought to myself, if i don't buy it now, i'll end up getting a beat-up, high km m5 which will probably be more headaches then its worth.

So the car i choose was a 2001 Silverstone M5
Came with the Extended Leather and M-Audio Package
The only thing i wish i had was the Oem rims :(

http://postimg.org/image/a3576xvqf/

http://postimg.org/image/4m8atsybz/


I'll take better pictures soon enough :p

Im not makign this a track car, it might see a couple lapping events.
This car is just going to be my daily driver (and i drive alot!) that will have the stuff i like, and a bit more HP and TQ wont hurt:p
Improving the car with out compromise (meaning its not going to be stupidly low/ stiff or neck breaking power at 5k rpm)

Instead of posting different threads, i just want to keep it all in one:) Easy way to track my little project

I'm going to need your help guys!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Clutch, Rear Main Seal, E60 SSK and Bushings

The car was well taken car of, and it came with a STACK of reciepts but it needed a couple things to bring it up to it's factory glory!




So the first thing i noticed while looking for the car was that the throw on the m5 was just too much (especially going into 6th)
A bit of research on the forum and i found out that an e60 SSK would work. I choose this one mainly because It was 55 bucks and I like knowing which gear i'm going into, and After trying it out on Anuk's car (Asb9987) I liked it!!
I took the car over to Jay and Mike @ Stance Factory, They uncovered that the car;

- needed a clutch (the clutch slips at high rpm)
- Power steering line was leaking
- Rear Sway bar endlinks
- Passengers side mirror auto fold wasn't working
- rear deck made a creaking noise
Looking around myself:
- The car had a couple rock chips,
- 2 tiny rust spot
- scratches on the rear bumper - showed signs of someone using touch-up paint
- The interior leather was in great condition for a 13 year old car, It did show some signs of fading especially near the door handle
- ALL the pixels worked on the cluster,
- The water temp needle is sitting between the 1/4 and 1/2 way mark.... Not sure if this is good thing... Maybe thermostat is stuck open??
- Headlights and fogs were heavily pitted
- Driver's Tail light had some condensation
- Cold start-up was loud!
- Stupid Secondary air pump code.... grrrrrrr

But First things on the list is the CLUTCH JOB!!

I used a couple different source's for my parts and Was glad i made a contact at those places

If you guys ever need oem parts from the dealership shiped fast! Contact:
Jose Sorto BMW of Fairfax, Great guy and Fast service!

 

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For the second air pump code, there is a couple of way to solve it.

If you look on the forum, you can find the instructions to do an electronic module that will cheat you DME so it will not occur again.

The other way... easier is to flash you DME with a modified .bin files to tell it to don't look at the air pump code, number 170 i think.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
For the second air pump code, there is a couple of way to solve it.

If you look on the forum, you can find the instructions to do an electronic module that will cheat you DME so it will not occur again.

The other way... easier is to flash you DME with a modified .bin files to tell it to don't look at the air pump code, number 170 i think.
Which one would still allow me to pass the emmision test. I'm not sure how they do it in the states but here in Southern Ontario they plug a computer to the OBDII port and it tells them if it passes or not!
The code in Questions is : P0491 secondary Air Injector System bank 1


Original clutch lasted 134,000 miles!!!

E60 SSK vs E39 M5 Shifter


While doing the rms/ clutch/ shifter i learned a couple things:
there was a few parts i bought that i never needed to replace, and a few that im glad i did!
Pics For Refference:
Tranny

Shifter


- the Fork deffinatley showed signs of wear and that spring clip really needs to be replaced also that push pin!!! (only half of it on, the other half broke off and was no where to be found! i bit scary!)
- The rear main seal was in amazing condition for a car witl 134,000 miles... but i changed it anyways because i dont want to take the tranny out again..
- the flywheel had no horizontal play, and it could have been resurfaced, but i replaced it with a new one because i didnt have a place to take it to be resurfaced.
- My pilot bearing was surprisingly good but the throwout bearing was gone,
- the metal cylinder (No1 on the pic of the tranny diagram) even though it was metal, it was wore out too.
- exhaust bolts are a must!!! i had a torch which made things easier (only broke 1 bolt)
- Tranny fluid should be changed when the tranny is out! makes it easier.
- I checked all the seals on the tranny, they were fine! So i didn't replace them... They dont normally leak on most manual tranny's
- The shifter bushings deffinatley needed to replaced! This probably made the biggest difference (No 7)
- The two bushings on the arm that are parellel to each other did not need to be replaced (No 13)
- I didn't replace (No. 14), because i forgot to buy it :( and the dealership was closed, but i can do it another day
- the tranny mounts werent bad, but they were about 5mm shorter, so i jsut replaced them
- bleeding the clutch takes a WHILE! i bled fom the master cylinder n slave. It goes in like butter!!!
- The slave cylinder was in good shape, so i didn't replace it
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
i bought the clutch on ebay for 220 bucks shipped it even came with the clutch alignment tool!, the flywheel was 450, Make sure to buy the flywheel tool, i couldn't get it on time and i had to grind down a regular one so it would fit! and rear main seal was like 25 bucks! If your planning to do it your self just, its pretty straight forward, I got alot of help from AGM5, he got me the TIS instructions for it, and the great DIY's on the board gave me enough confidence to tackle this on my own!

On page two there is a pdf of the TIS instructions
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/292729-tis-clutch-rms-tips.html

Here a few pics of wore out parts, The Flex disk was GONE!!!



 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Just a little update, I haven't done anything special but a few little things:

1) Led Angel eye bulbs
2) Replaced the LED angel eye bulbs with full 66 LED angel eyes from my e36, Wasn't easy
HID Kits, BMW Aftermarket Bumpers & Lighting, DEPO - DDM Tuning
3)Wet sanded the headlights and polished! I got to find the UV protector, but i can't find anywhere locally that sells it seperately!
4) Updated my Navigation to the latest version... man I'm deffinatley NOT a "Techy"
5) Conditioned my leather and Cleaned the steering wheel (Now i can see the M stiching Briliantly)


1-------I am a fan of LED lights and the cool white light!
I first bought the led Angel eye bulbs, but it just wasn't bright enough. I could barely see it in the day time, and after have the depo headlight with the 66LED angel eyes, it deffinatley wasn't enough....
So i went to work on taking off the headlights

Took off every screw/ bracket/ bulb and weather stripping
then proceeded to bake the headlights for 5 mins at 200F... trust me you dont need to keep them in long...
With a helping hand we pryed the headlight appart CAREFULLY you dont want to break anything
I'm not a fan of destroying or tampering with OEM stuff (especially because OEM headlights aren't cheap)
so i trimmed down and cut the angel eyes down to size and used super glue to stick it into place be careful not to get the glue on the chrome parts, they eat away at it.
take your time, after doing the first headlight, the second one is alot easier to take off. and put back together, it took me like 2 1/2 hours to do the first headlight but only 1 hour to do the second one, i ran the wire thru the angel eye bulbs and hooked it up properly (I'll post some pictures up of how i did it)

They look so much better and more modern!!!

One problem!!!!! ---- since its led it doesn't require much electricity to work, so everytime the car cycles through the "Check Control" the angel eyes would blink.

So now I'm thinking of wiring them somehow to be Day-time Running lights If anyone knows the best way of doing this, i would be extremely gratefull!

4---- I attempted to get a nice customer splash screen but failed miserably due to the fact that i had mk3 and not mk4 and managed to brick it, lucky a couple calls to allison (AGM5) and a few pm's to RichardP, i got it all sorted out and now i got the nice ====BMW==== splash screen :)

here is the post where i thread jacked Twiggym5:
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/297345-custom-splash-screen.html
 

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My angel eyes blink in succession for about 5 seconds on startup (LEDs). It doesn't bother me. I actually kind of like it in a strange way.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
My angel eyes blink in succession for about 5 seconds on startup (LEDs). It doesn't bother me. I actually kind of like it in a strange way.
I noticed mine also blinks once in a while while the car is running. Does your do the same?
 

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Congrads on your beast,

You can by separate UV Headlight protection at Walmart, from Meguires - sells plastic lens cleaner and protector in two separate bottles (specifically for plastic headlight, around $4). I bought some two months ago, but ended up just applying 3M clear tape.

The angel Light also blinked on mine but eventually started to thrown codes on the Check control - and that's when I got rid of them.

Good luck with the rest of the project!!
 

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I noticed mine also blinks once in a while while the car is running. Does your do the same?
I have not noticed mine blinking during normal operation
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
^^^ im going to have to find out why that is....

So i know a couple people asked me how the lights turned out, and unfortunatley i only got Crappy cell phone pics, but they will show the difference between the OEM-to led angel eye bulbs- to full led angel eyes. I will post them sometimes today.

I had a lot of time to drive me beast, took it on a couple long hauls to the border and Daily driving it. I absolutly love the torque, I got used to the beast now, and can let the back end peel out a bit:p I got to say Top gear was right, it is very well balanced... On my e36 i was doing more donuts then drifting lol

**Warning to the Garage Queen Owner's****
I'm getting ready to do a couple things before winter hits... I am going to drive it through winter/rain/snow, after all BMW intended it be driven all year round :)

So couple things on the list; (anyone that wants to add to this list, please do!!)

Oil change using Mobil-1 0w-40 (I love Mobil-1 Products and used it religiously on my e36) OR Eneos Fully Synthetic 0w-50 (It give you a 11 hp gain :D!!!!! .... No seriously, i think it still has a good weight to keep the oil consuption to a minimum and offer less wear from cold start-up) I Will be doing an oil analysis of the 0w-40 which the Previous owner has used, and the 0w-50/0w-40 which i will be using :)

Here is a great read, if anyone is interested in different Non-biased opinon, most the guys on Bob is the Oil guy know lot about oil, and dont own a M so they can't have a biased opinion on the oil (that's my theory anyways :p)
why does bmw require 10w60 ? - Bob Is The Oil Guy

Here is a couple things that stood out in my research :
Quotes:
"
----- http://www.redlineoil.com/news_article.aspx?id=13

Here's an article on Red Line's website about products they make for Bimmers. Even they don't recommend 10w60:

"Most E36 and E46 cars run fine on the recommended 5W30-even with all but the most dramatic aftermarket mods. The need for 10W60 motor oil in the M-cars is questionable to many (including Red Line, as we've seen customers run as light as 5W30 in E46 M3s without issue), but we now offer this product for sale in North America (we have sold this product in Asia for many years). Folks like Bavarian Autosport smartly recommend that that their Red Line customers use the lightest weight that's appropriate for seasonal conditions. We don't argue that."

BMW should stop trying to gloss over their inability to engineer proper bearings and oiling systems by spec'ing absurdly high oil viscosities."

----- BMW 10w60 recommendation is only for specific M engines.

The reason: to prevent oil leaks/oil burning.

From BMW Service bulletin http://homepage.mac.com/ianlindvig/BMWEngineOils.pdf

"....engine oil consumption will increase when Castrol Formula RS 10W-60 Synthetic Oil
or Castrol TWS Motorsport SAE 10W-60 Synthetic is diluted (topped up with other low viscosity
synthetic engine oils)."

----- Yes there was a bearing issue back then and the 10W-60 was a "quick fix" recommendation. But the issue is behind them.
Again most M series engines won't even see 100C oils temp's driven on the street.
Even track driven cars don't need such a heavy oil as RL states. A freind of mine who had an early E46 M3 was a BMW club instructor and thrashed his car routinely on the track using M1 0W-40 (once out of warranty) without issue.

I have no idea why BMW continues to recommend the oil in NA. Although the spec' Castrol TWS 10W-60 oil is know to shear down a lot in service so in theory the oil could possibly test minimum viscosity limits after 15,000 miles on the oil, plus fuel dilution, on a very hot day after hours of flat out lapping at the track.
To the best of my knowledge, BMW is the only car company that still does spec' that oil grade. Ferrari no longer does on any of it's current cars, in fact the spec' oil is a rather light 3.68cP HTHSV 5W-40."


-----------------------------ANYWAYS!!!----------------------------------------

The list:
Engine oil
Valve cover gasket - i was waiting for a reason to pop the airbox off and stare at the ITB's :p
Spark plugs
Fuel tank breather valve
Headlights and fogs were heavily pitted
Driver's Tail light had some condensation
get my body guy to fix the minor rust spots/ stone chips and im going to wash/claybar/paintcorrection put on a layer of Opti-coat, which is a perminent added protection for the clear coat.
Rust proofing <<< I wish there is a permenant solution for preventing rust :(
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Oh BTW don't mind the spelling errors, my work computer doesn't have spell check :S

So here is the LED angel eye bulbs that i got.... they weren't very bright in the day time





So i spent an afternoon with my friend retro-fitting full LED angel eyes


And this is how it looks in the day time :) Quite happy with the end result!
 
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