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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've started the process of replacing most of the front suspension arms and links and bushings and some of the rear. Has anyone replaced or attempted to do the two mounts #2 and #3 (it is the round mount just under the number 3 in picture diagram and there's 2 of them total).

As you can see I am trying to replace as much as possible but am thinking to opt out changing the #3 because I don't see how I can tilt the carrier so much down to press it out. Unless I take it off the chassis I don't see it as being possible to do and I don't want to have to do that which is why I am askign if anyone here replaced that and if it was hard to do.

On the front I am replacing #2, #3, #7,#8 on diagram two and #6 on diagram three. I am also installing top lemforder strut mounts and doing a EDC delete with H&R springs and Koni Yellow sport shocks. I cannot find rear mounts anywhere except of tunermotorsport.com. Upon inspecting the rear today I also noticed that part #6 is going to be replaced and part #2 can be replaced. There's actually 4 of them, 2 for each side. Does anyone think this needs replacing or has anyone done it and was it worth it? These don't look that hard to pop down and press out and in new ones. Not pictured is a rear stabilizer bar link mount that is going to be replaced too.

Does anyone have any other suggestions as far as suspension components go? Some mount or bushing that could warrant replacement that I am not thinking of and would be totally worth doing at this time? Ideas welcome.
 

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Man ......... you've got lovely feet !

There's no need to change #3 in pic 1 unless essential !

The rear axle beam bushes #2 in pic 1 are well worth doing if your current bushes are degraded , although it's not an easy DIY job .

Meanwhile , the upper and lower front arms are always a worthwhile maintenance item if you are experiencing any shuddering under braking or shimmying through the steering , upon hitting a bump while the steering is loaded , mid corner . It may be worth changing the tie rods at the same time if you are on a mission .

The rear dog bones can make a difference to rear trailing arm movement if your existing ones are shot and rear ARB bushes / drop links are realtively cheap if you are fitting a new , thicker , rear ARB anyhow !

Man , your feet are going to be dancing across those pedals with a new found joy for driving after that lot is done !

D
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks for all the compliments on my feet.

So let me get this straight, the bushing I just ordered and want to change is not essential but the one that is hard to change and I didn't want to change you think I should. Wow....you just want to see me struggle with them. Do you have personal experience replacing the rear bushes #3 on 1st picture?

I am changing the dog bone and another one that looks like it but skinner for the rear stabilizer bar. Wasn't planning in changing the rear bar if that is what ARB is. Both bushings are ordered and getting done though.

I am also doing the tie rods with lemforder ones but forgot to add that in there. While waiting for all these parts to arrive I am going to sturt taking apart one side first and see what else I can come up with.

Any suggestions for brake pads on stock replacement rotors? Just something that won't give out if taken to a track 3-5times a year.
 

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Edited my post to correct .......... The rear axle beam bushes , part #2 in the first diagram , are well worth changing if your existing items are tired .

Part #3 is not necessary unless absolutely shot !


EBC Yellowstuff are a decent pad for fast road and occasional track day driving and we have them fitted to our stripped out 3.6 Sebring Sienna after many successful excursions !
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Having trouble separating any of the ball joints from the spindle. I will take a picture and post later but basically can't separate ball joints on tierods either side and both of the control arms, lower and upper. Any ideas? I've tried the ball joint separator fork and no luck so far.
 

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These ball joints are a royal pain in the harris !

Forks are no good if you ever want to refit the arm in question and a ball joint separating tool that pushes the joint out is advisable .

The instant and slightly less engineering approach , is to shock the ball joint out by striking the retaining tie rod arm with a good sharp hammer blow .

Personally , I'd purchase a decent separating tool .e.g.



D
 

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These ball joints are a royal pain in the harris !

Forks are no good if you ever want to refit the arm in question and a ball joint separating tool that pushes the joint out is advisable .

The instant and slightly less engineering approach , is to shock the ball joint out by striking the retaining tie rod arm with a good sharp hammer blow .

Personally , I'd purchase a decent separating tool .e.g.



D
The only way to go! Just remember to put the nut back on the ball joint, cause when they pop free, they can go flying across the garage.
 
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I did this job for the second time (but on my 525 touring) and found it very much easier to disconnect the other ends of the arms and get the steering plate with attached arms into a vice and then separate the ball joints. One of the joints would not budge with my separator but finally separated with a fork/hammer and some heat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I shocked the hell out of it davidoli. Didn't seem to help. I've had to administer shock therapy for days before on different cars before it just pops out one day. This time I will go and purchase a tool similar or same to the one you posted and we'll see what happens. Will keep you posted.

I am still waiting on front top mounts and am going to inspect all the rubber and other components that may show they need replacing as well.
 

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I shocked the hell out of it davidoli. Didn't seem to help. I've had to administer shock therapy for days before on different cars before it just pops out one day. This time I will go and purchase a tool similar or same to the one you posted and we'll see what happens. Will keep you posted.

I am still waiting on front top mounts and am going to inspect all the rubber and other components that may show they need replacing as well.
As mentioned, a little heat can help. A propane torch to heat the flange a little while keeping tension with a puller works for the most stubborn arms and tie rods.

Don't forget spring pads, bump stops, dust boots and hardware
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I bought this tool from harbor freight for 20$ and it popped them out without much difficulty. Now I am waiting on all the strut hardware and control arms and bushings.

I opted out to replace the brakes with oe balo rotors and jurid pads front and rear. Rotors were in bad shape, pads were brand new. It was breaking really well but i figured while i'm in there i might as well change it.

Keep you posted as the work progresses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
How much brake fluid is needed to do a proper bleed and how much Pentosin is needed to change the old fluid after the SLS delete? So far I've gotten 1L of brake fluid from pelicanparts with my brakes, do i need more? I'm yet to get Pentosin.

Thanks.
 

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A good workman always thanks his tools !

Meanwhile , a litre of brake fluid should be enough and 2 / 3 litres of Pentosin will cover it . Check your reservoir cap for grade required .

D
 

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Looks like great work there stija!

Can I ask about your axle stands - do you have the car supported on just the side sills? Is there not potential for some damage here? No offence intended but can't quite clearly see how you have worked this on the pictures shown.

Duncan
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Thanks Davidoli.

Dscam, here's a few pics showing how i supported it. PRobably not the best way, but if you got a better idea for next time let me know. This way, the dark plastic will probably be left with marks where the stand came in contact with it, no other damage is expected.

Feel free to let me know if theres a better way. I couldn't really find a very good spot for the floor jack to jack it up either. Especially so in the back. It just seemed like things were just about to bend. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Does anyone know or possibly even have a pdf document of all the torque specifications for e34 m5? I need to find out how much to torque all the suspension components.

On another note, I bought both Mahle and Mann oil filters. Same price of 6$ on pelican parts. The picture is included, but at first glance Mahle seems to be made better or sturdier. Judge for yourself.
 

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Torque settings all found on here in various places , thanks to original posters :

The 3 bolts that secure the steering arm to the bottom of the strut housing - 110Nm Bentley pg 310-6 use Loctite 270. They do work loose if you don't !

Front Brake Caliper to Strut Assembly - 110Nm Bentley pg 340-6
(Caliper to Carrier is 35Nm.)

Strut Bearing Nuts (Strut Assembly to body [3 nuts]) - 22Nm Bentley pg 310-3 DO NOT REUSE OLD LOCK NUTS !

Thrust Arm to Connecting Crossmember - 127Nm Bentley pg 310-10

Thrust Arm Ball Joint to Steering Arm - 93Nm Bentley pg 310-10 ( Slightly more than suggested elsewhere on Board )

Lug bolt (Wheel Bolts ?) - Road Wheel to Hub - 100Nm Bentley pg 310-10<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>

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Track rod ends are 37 Nm.
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Upper and lower TCA's are 85 Nm for the balljoints, with the pinchbolts 130 and 77 respectively tightened on level ground.

The Mahle Oil filter indeed is the better quality , although the Mann is not awful if you change your oil relatively frequently and is similar to the Bosch Oil Filter .

D




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