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The shop Said the rubber on my thrust arms are shot. Also said my ball joints and struts are wiped out. I’m waiting for a parts list and I’m going to start with the front end first and then save up and do the rear. I’ll have them check the rotors too. I’m not really driving the car too much until it’s taken care of

I definitely get more vibration on hot rotors and I’ve always had that sudden jolt in the steering wheel if I stab the brakes. For what it’s worth it’s a great car that I’ve made great progress with since I’ve purchased it. I’d love to re do the whole suspension and get the driving experience it was designed for.
Its your front suspension. Especially the lower control arm "thrust arm" bushing. It absorbs the rearward motions to the front wheel. It absorbs alot of energy. The OEM has a liquid filling, for a nice luxury car noise/vibration/harshness ride. But it gets beaten up, cracks, and loosens up.
If it is not tight, the geometry of the lower control arms are not kept constant, and your front wheel will not be in alignment under a hard braking load. It happened to me and it was most pronounced at the 60-70 mph range. If it were warped rotors, or even rotors that have uneven deposits, wouldn't the shimmy occur at ALL braking speeds?
 
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Discussion Starter #62 (Edited)
Any hard braking Even 30-0 and I’m shaking badly. And it was progressively worsening over time, especially these past few weeks. I’m at the point where the car is remaining parked until I get the work done. (Last thing I need is one of the joints to come apart while I’m driving and collapse a wheel into my fender) in the beginning when the shakes first started a few months ago I kept thinking rotors because I had discovered a very very slight sticking caliper. I went ahead and rebuilt the front calipers and threw new rotors on and the shaking disappeared until 1500 miles later but it all makes sense now after I had asked the shop to inspect front and rear suspension. I just wish I would of known the suspension was toast earlier I had one shop tell me just my tie rod ends had play, another shop told me my rotors were warped (only based on there test drive). I found a good specialist now that I’m satisfied with. But I can’t even get mad at the large repair bill to do a suspension overhaul. What do you expect from a 20 year old system with my mileage. It is what it is. I’ll report back after the work is done
 

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Don't feel too bad; new suspension links is generally one of the top priorities for any old E39 refresh project. You'll be super happy with the results; it'll be worth it, I'm quite sure! Control arms, tension struts, and all 3 steering links for sure, and dampers if yours are old/original and/or you want to change them! Then you'll want to move to the rear next ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #64
So basically got quoted for 22 hours of labor to install a 20 piece control arm kit and a coil over set with an alligment. Opinions?
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Just dropped it off to get the 20 piece done. Different specialist shop. Lots of M cars outside, (F10, E60, E46, E9X) explained to the owner my situation he said bad wheel bearings might be the cause. I’ll keep the thread updated as they inspect and do the work. Thanks guys.
 

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I just had the shimmy fixed on my car with the Dinan BBK. Turns out it was the rotor locating pins on the hub were not sitting perfect in the Dinan rotor hats. Don't know if this is the same issue you are having but worth a look.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
They say the wheel bearings/hub assemblies keep causing the problem. I did the 20 piece Lemförder, 2 front wheel hub assemblies and the motor mounts. Car isn’t ready yet but they’re guaranteeing the fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #68 (Edited)
Fixed it, not sure exactly what specific part it was but I did a 20 piece control arm kit with new front wheel hub assemblies and new motor mounts. Mechanic said bad wheel hub bearings/assemblies along with a bad alignment from bad suspension can cause the rotors to warp due to everything not being straight and in line while in rotation. I was warping brand new rotors every 1500 miles. I personally think the wheel hub assemblies were the main culprit in my case. I hope one doesn’t have to go through what I did and spend all that money on replacing everything just to solve a brake shimmy. However my car needed it all anyway. Everything feels tight, solid and safe now. I still wish I could of added the brand new shocks and struts along with this job. Next time 💸💸💸
 

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I would guess it was all hand in hand and if someone had done something when the first part was worn then others would not have worn. Likely that point was still years before you bought the car. You should not have to deal with much in the future, but don't leave little things as they may cause other things damage.
Of your list there is no one thing you could not have done, every thing in that list will have an effect on the brakes. You might have reduced it to tolerable, but that left over vibe would have beat up on your new parts.
 

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Just out of curiosity did you pay attention as you know there is a left and right rotor are they mixed up?
 
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