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You can get the tie rods for 40 apiece, the lemforder 4 piece control arm kit for 436.98 and the blistein b8 set for 718.94 , all from turner/ECS (same supply chain, TMS parts department is partnered with ECS). Support bearings and lower pads all in should be about 100 if I’m remembering correctly. So parts looks about 1400 and you’d most likely be all set. Ask your shop what the labor would be on those parts, assuming nothing else is broken you might be ok at 3k? That’s also assuming I did the math correctly, but I would double check :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #43 (Edited)
Can I use the stock springs with the b8s? If I have to get new springs which ones compliment the B8s? I might need to do a partial rear too. I’m gonna go with the b8s all around and a 6 piece up front (includes the tie rods) and a 4 or 6 piece in the rear. Just waiting to hear back on what parts I actually need for the rear end.
 

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B8 will work with the stock springs, but it may raise you up a hair in the rear (stiffer piston plus a slightly higher perch in rear than stock), I have seen conflicting reports on that, but it gives me pause, maybe someone who has done it can chime in? The B8 (35-114093 fr and 24-028295 r) for the M5 is the same recommended by Bilstein for the 540 with lowering springs.

Edit- looks like I was wrong- it will raise you up a bit (5mm front, 12mm rear)- this is a good thread on it and spring comparisons. Bilstein B8 Ride Height/Spring Info
Nothing bad will happen, but you may not like the look or the idea that you are raised up.

I do not have aftermarket springs on my m5 so I cannot give you a first hand recommendation, but many people like the intrax springs with the B8, nice look, not too low, great ride. That thread probably has the answer you need, has great measurements and photos so you can see how the car will look.

No matter what you do, the car is going to feel amazing with a refreshed suspension, just think how much fun you're gonna have and try to ignore the bill :)
 

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Discussion Starter #45
The Intrax springs aren’t available in the US. I might go with the Dinan + B8 not sure about figment though. Have to check
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Think I’m just going to go with

BC BR coil over Kit
6 piece front control arm kit
And 6 piece rear
 

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Think I’m just going to go with

BC BR coil over Kit
6 piece front control arm kit
And 6 piece rear
It is your money you can spend it as you want. What exactly is in your 6 piece front end kit, what is the price difference between 6 and 10 piece? When you have loose parts that bang each time they move they do damage or stress the other parts in the system.
 

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Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)

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So you are going to put on new shocks without new stabilizer links? Once you have driven for a while do you hear a click going over bumps? That will be them, cold they seem tight but once warm the grease packed with dirt is more pliable and the play comes out.
This is not really very accurate but I don't have the time to explain the math to you. Think of your front end as a big stick in your hand. A little movement of your wrist makes for a large movement in the tip of the stick. A little play in the inner tie rod/center link and the parts that hold it in place will appear as big play at the wheel. It also works the opposite when you grab the end of the stick you have so much leverage that if there is any play on the inner it can't help but be activated.
If your front end is original and has had a bunch of parts with play working on it then there is not likely one part that is not worn or maybe even damaged. The closer you get to the center the less play you can have. If you notice that your outer tierods are worn with .5 mm play you will notice that same play or looseness with a fraction of that in the bushing or center link or steering link.
If you can't afford it now hold off on the shocks and springs until you can. So steal from your shock budget to make sure your front end is sound. Of coarse I am not driving the car nor have I but unless your car is bouncing down the road those parts are not dangerous yet. Your description of your fear of braking clearly makes your whole front end dangerous. Then again I would be measuring the play so I would have all the facts. Since your shop has not likely done that and you are not going to do that, you should guess on the side of safety considering what you have reported.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Good point sailor. I’m just not familiar with the complete suspension components and functionality. I was also thinking about just doing the complete front end and holding off on the shocks Due to budget purposes. The car isn’t bouncing down the road lol
 

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You were driving the car, so you know best. You have the 3 correct items chosen front end, back end and suspension. Address what is worst first. Address what is second worst second. Depends on miles, depends on use but none of those 3 items last forever so no matter what you are not wasting money. You have to replace them all at some point. Maybe 3 times for the front end.
Not sure your shop is giving you sound advice but I am not sure they are not. I would have had more confidence if they had measured things but maybe it is so bad it is obvious and measuring things costs money.
The same is likely true for the rear if it is all original it all needs to be replaced unless you measure otherwise. If you can't measure it then just replace it. The rubber alone is 20 years old. These things at this age are money pits, the only way they are not is if you have had it for a long time and have been bleeding money the whole time. The original cost of mine is peanuts compared to the cost of ownership. Worth it, but still expensive. I giggle a little when you said $3000 budget, I dropped double that into parts the first year I bought mine. Some was repairing things I knew were broken but the majority was maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
You were driving the car, so you know best. You have the 3 correct items chosen front end, back end and suspension. Address what is worst first. Address what is second worst second. Depends on miles, depends on use but none of those 3 items last forever so no matter what you are not wasting money. You have to replace them all at some point. Maybe 3 times for the front end.
Not sure your shop is giving you sound advice but I am not sure they are not. I would have had more confidence if they had measured things but maybe it is so bad it is obvious and measuring things costs money.
The same is likely true for the rear if it is all original it all needs to be replaced unless you measure otherwise. If you can't measure it then just replace it. The rubber alone is 20 years old. These things at this age are money pits, the only way they are not is if you have had it for a long time and have been bleeding money the whole time. The original cost of mine is peanuts compared to the cost of ownership. Worth it, but still expensive. I giggle a little when you said $3000 budget, I dropped double that into parts the first year I bought mine. Some was repairing things I knew were broken but the majority was maintenance.
Yes the way they explained it was that everything is obviously shot. I have 230k miles I’ve been refreshing the car little by little. I do what I can when I can. (Although it seems to never end) that’s why I put budgets up doesn’t mean it’s not flexible, it’s just a timing matter. I’m into the car more in repairs than what I paid for it. Almost feels like the point of no return I put so much money into it there’s no point in selling it might as well just keep it. I enjoy driving it. I think I’ll take your advice and worry about the front and rear end And do the shocks later. Most likely a 20 piece kit Front and back.
 

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Don’t sell the car. Every person I know who sold their e39 m5 has regretted it and has tried to buy mine.

It is typical to put lots of money into a high mileage example. If it was cheap, it’s likely because the person before you was likely on the classic “deferred maintenance plan”. Replace things as you can, and when you are done you will get many more happy miles out of it. As sailor has stated things degrade due to age as well as use, a lot of people don’t keep this in mind when buying a car like an M5, they are simply tempted by how much performance they can get at a low price- but an M5 is a highly precise bit of engineering, the parts need to be maintained properly.

You might consider having a different shop looking at it and get a second opinion on what needs replacing immediately, and do that, or replace all the links now; you can’t really go wrong doing a full refresh on a car with such high mileage, unless something was replaced by the previous owner recently. Do you have any maintenance records? Might help you in your decisions.
 

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Discussion Starter #57 (Edited)
I rescued the car from a guy who bought it and only owned for 4 months and basically didn’t want anything to do with putting money into it. Only records I have were Carfax which suprisingly had some decent dealer service history. I’ve created a nice sized file folder of maintenance records I have gotten done with a laundry list of some hefty repairs that were completed. Definitely time for a suspension refresh. The car sounds like a birds nest coming down the road. As far as the motor goes I’d trust driving it from NY to FL and back no question. At 230k it doesn’t miss a beat.
 

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A second opinion might be your best bet now and you also might find a better shop in the process. No matter what you talk about here none of us have seen your car and are assuming things based on our past experiences, can't help that.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
I think it’s just obvious at my mileage and age the whole suspension needs to be refreshed. Might as well just do it all, like you said weak parts will wear other parts. I’ll do the 20 piece now and the shocks later.
 
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