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Discussion Starter #1
On my 3rd set of front rotors within 6k miles and I still can not fix the brake shimmy, same thing every time. After a fresh set of front rotors all is good until about 1500 miles later and the shaking returns under braking. Most recent set of front rotors I put on along with a front caliper rebuild. Pistons, seals, guide pins, bushings and bled all around. I know it’s the brakes because the hotter the rotors get (constant braking) the worse the shaking gets it’s very frustrating and I have no clue why. Front suspension checks out ok too.
 

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All i can suggest is inner tie rod , and poly strut bushings.
Strut bushings can pass mist play tests and still be bad.
Innertie rods have to be checked at ride height.
Worked for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I was thinking about a full suspension refresh or at least front end. Just very expensive
 

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I had the shimmy and replaced the entire front suspension. It needed a refresh anyway but it definitely got rid of the problem. Rotors and pads didn’t fix it for me.
 

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I had the exact same issue on a car

Was told its not machined right

Cheap rotors

Wrong pads

Morons had no idea until someone did!

The pistons get worn and stick and drag causing excessive heat and ruin the rotor

New pistons and seals on calipers and never had an issue again!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I rebuilt the calipers because of drag. Back to suspension has anyone ran any other kis other than Lemforder for a better price?
 

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The pistons get worn and stick and drag causing excessive heat and ruin the rotor

New pistons and seals on calipers and never had an issue again!
Yup! A seized front caliper solved my brake vibration issues. You can test this by touching the wheel after a 20-30 minute drive. If the wheel is hot compared to the other wheels, the caliper is seized/dragging.

I rebuilt the calipers because of drag. Back to suspension has anyone ran any other kis other than Lemforder for a better price?
Interesting. Here's hoping they were rebuilt correctly. If you're looking for suspension suggestions, I went with FCP Euro's Meyle 10 Piece kit, link HERE. It's been on my DD since April 2019 and seems fine... although I haven't been driving much thanks to COVID.

I want to say in February 2017 I replaced most of the front end suspension components with Moog components and rear with Lemforder, all purchased from Rock Auto. Not sure if Michigan roads just tore through the Moog components in 2 years, or they were just poor quality, as Moog is (was?) a decent suspension company. The rear Lemforder components are still on the car.

I've become a loyal customer to FCP thanks to their lifetime warranty and excellent customer support. It wasn't worth going through the suspension twice so quickly just to save a few hundred dollars on parts. From past experiences, I didn't bother trying to get replacements through good will/warranty of Rock Auto.
 

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Get TRW from FCP. They are OE manufacturer for our cars, and their suspension parts are excellent quality.
 
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Check for runout on your hubs also.

I had a similar issue a few times with aftermarket rotors (Stoptech / Zimmerman) and it was solved with OEM rotors up front.

Mind you this is after doing EVERY suspension part under the sun as well as modifying driving habits.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I’m running Jurid pads
The car is in the shop now, they say my suspension is wiped out and it looks like it’s going to run almost 3k just in parts alone. The struts/shocks and springs aren’t cheap and neither is the 20 piece front and rear refresh kit. And I don’t know any alternatives to save on parts
 

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Well that crosses the pads off, Jurids are a good choice. It’s going to be a big hit to your wallet, but on the bright side your car will be like it rolled off the showroom floor when you are done!
 

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Not sure if you’re the DIY type but I tackled front and rear suspension myself with the threads here and some help from members. It’s not easy but its not overly complicated either. I’m assuming it’s saved me anywhere between 3K-5K all in from a labor stand point.
 

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I would ask them to detail specifically which parts are exhibiting play, unless you want to replace everything. It may be true that you need to do it, but I personally ask to be shown whatever a tech says has too much play. Might be absolutely legit and you need to replace some or a lot of things.

The part that gives me pause however is you say it was ok for 1500 miles and then the shimmy started. That would rule out suspension as the cause, as it would have been there from mile 1, no?

Certain pads will leave deposits on a rotor under street driving conditions (regardless of quality, some semi track pads need to be used aggressively). But you are running the Jurid 571873? I’m pretty sure those won’t do that.

Did you bed the brakes properly when they were new? Only asking as the simplest solution is often right, and everyone I know (including me) has forgotten to do that once or twice.
 

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I’m running Jurid pads
The car is in the shop now, they say my suspension is wiped out and it looks like it’s going to run almost 3k just in parts alone. The struts/shocks and springs aren’t cheap and neither is the 20 piece front and rear refresh kit. And I don’t know any alternatives to save on parts
These are not cheap cars to maintain - remember, the price of an old performance car may go down, but the parts will still cost close to what new parts cost back then. You can go to FCP and look at their built kits (which often have a lot of stuff people don't need) and search for particular part numbers to put together your own kit based on what you actually need. When I did my suspension refresh, I managed to put together a complete front and rear refresh kit very similar to those 20-piece kits and get a set of BC-BR coils for less than $1700 shipped.
 

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The part that gives me pause however is you say it was ok for 1500 miles and then the shimmy started. That would rule out suspension as the cause, as it would have been there from mile 1, no?
No, on the contrary it verifies that the problem is front end play. Basically the specs are no play from the ball jointed components. At least what you could feel or see. There is obviously some spec but it will be very small measured in thousands of an inch. You must use dial gauge indicators to verify this.
What happens is simple at one mile there is a perfect surface for the pads to run, so no vibration is generated by the brake system. After 1500 miles things are less perfect, but that is true for all cars, the surfaces wear and cause vibrations. The front end design, with the rubber and no play in the balls, is designed to dampen and remove those vibrations. The normal vibrations are within the design perimeters.
When there is play or poor performing rubber, it over stresses that system and it no longer can absorb the normal vibrations that the brake system produces. Replacing all the rubber and joints is the way to go for these cars, the rubber alone might be 20 years old, but even if it is 10, and how could you tell?
 
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