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Ah ok, it looks pretty good. I’d get the tire and wheels audited as that’s usually the biggest culprit with vibration, but it should almost always vibrate at higher speeds and braking shouldn’t really affect that.
 

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Ah ok, it looks pretty good. I’d get the tire and wheels audited as that’s usually the biggest culprit with vibration, but it should almost always vibrate at higher speeds and braking shouldn’t really affect that.
Thanks and good to know. Tyres are brand new, MPS4s all round and the wheels came off a friend's M6 who I know had no issues with them.

Maybe its the abutment plate inside my caliper that could be corroded not allowing the piston to retract far back enough for the caliper to allow clearance. Could also be talking outta my @$% right now, especially with it being almost 1am here in the UK lol.

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Since you have a friend you may consider asking him to let you do a complete front tire/wheel swap so you can see if the issue goes away or changes. It’s a process of elimination game with these issues.
 

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Maybe its the abutment plate inside my caliper that could be corroded not allowing the piston to retract far back enough for the caliper to allow clearance. Could also be talking outta my @$% right now, especially with it being almost 1am here in the UK lol.
You could measure side to side brake rotor disc temp. If they are widely different temperatures between the sides it might mean the pad isnt disengaging.
 
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Yes thats the plan! Thanks for your support.
Just make sure you guys benchmark how it is on his car at the same speeds and same road as when you do it with yours. Be very deliberate.
Also there’s often rust that builds up on the face of the rotor that mates with wheel and similarly the back inside of the rotor to the hub. It’s critical that those surfaces are smooth and flat. You may have to do a lateral runout test to measure how “flat” those are. This may make no sense at this late of an hour but you can google that or find videos to explain the concept.
 
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