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what are you using to hold your engine up?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Oops sorry. Harbor Freight engine support bar. A bottle jack on a flat surface towards the front of the underside of the engine not loaded but still making contact just in case, since the subframe will be out for a few weeks. You never know about metal stress fatigue etc.


938343
 

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do you feel like the HF bar is mounting on the sides of the fender properly? I've ready accounts of certain support bars not working so well. This is one tool I'll prolly need someday.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
No, it's not a great fit. I'm wary of it resting on nomstructural pieces of the car - the body etc. Its in the spot it is in now because that was the meatiest most supported part of the body I could find. And the back legs of the support are kept from walking forward from the rubber grommet used for the hood. The tension that the engine weight causes leaves me less concerned about the support walking but I still support the engine ever so slightly from underneath while I'm wrenching under the car. I had a car slide while I was underneath it once so now I take a huge abundance of caution. Even now, I have the front wheels in front of the center of gravity with 2x12's stacked on top of them so if my jack stands fail the car will land on the wheels and tip backwards instead of forward, on top of me.
 

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Good plan with that extra wood below! I imagine you've considered rod bearings since your down this far?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Yeah, so, I sent in an oil sample and it was good to learn about the process but I wasn't exactly accurate on my mileage reports because I didn't know. My counter reset and I wasn't using the real odo. I was half way through the mileage period when I did diff work last time and the trip counter also reset :) so when this is all done, I'll be driving the piss out of it and racking up those miles (why not? brand new front suspension y'all!) and get a more accurate test. Based on the data Blackstone did give me, I didn't get the feeling that I should be ultra concerned and they didn't seem to worried either - though of course that was based on the miles that were submitted with the sample.
 

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By golly, I don't know. for a measly $800 or so, you could get those bearings out of the way, at the easiest possible time to do them, with that suspension off.
 

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Yeah, but what If I get bored in a few weeks and need a project? :)
dont worry, I can find some other things for you to do. I just finished rebuilding my 1999 Toyota Solara - everything. entire suspension, ac, altenator, brake system, timing belt and tore off top half of motor to replace injectors and degunk intake and plenum. ready for its next 350K miles! I'm bored now. Cleaning out the garage and will find new work soon.
 

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what few items would you guys suggest to replace first with those suspension parts?

My 2008 M5 is at 56k miles and was wondering what should i replace first to improve road noise and driving comfort
 

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what few items would you guys suggest to replace first with those suspension parts?

My 2008 M5 is at 56k miles and was wondering what should i replace first to improve road noise and driving comfort
sway bar bushings best bang for buck. at your milage you should be near or already need to replace control arm bushings. those can be done w/o tearing off shocks, but if you end up doing stuff that requires shocks off, I'd just do it all. Also sway bar end links are easy. hard to tell if they need replaced w/o removing them. look at the TIS, some of these items ask for new nuts/bolts
 

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Since you mentioned road noise: there's a tsb about the sunroof seal becoming hard causing wind noise (and water in?). A new PN was issued with different material. Easy check: there should be no wind noise difference with the sunroof shade open vs. closed.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
sway bar bushings best bang for buck. at your milage you should be near or already need to replace control arm bushings. those can be done w/o tearing off shocks, but if you end up doing stuff that requires shocks off, I'd just do it all. Also sway bar end links are easy. hard to tell if they need replaced w/o removing them. look at the TIS, some of these items ask for new nuts/bolts
Got them sway bar bushings too :)

Since you mentioned road noise: there's a tsb about the sunroof seal becoming hard causing wind noise (and water in?). A new PN was issued with different material. Easy check: there should be no wind noise difference with the sunroof shade open vs. closed.
Definitely got that business going on. The cabin is actually more quiet with the back of the window propped up. It's a hot mess.
 

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Dan - one thing you might consider is to replace wheel bearings while you got everything apart. Its one thing I wish I had done that I didn't. Its not fun taking those struts off in order to get to them.
 

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I believe the front wheel bearings can be replaced without disconnecting the knuckle to strut bolt. I’ll look closer this afternoon.

I replaced the front control arm links (strut rod) last week and this time I did it without completely removing the knuckle to strut rod. After doing it the hard way last time, I looked online and found no good tips or tricks on how to do this, but there is a way but it a bit involved.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Dan - one thing you might consider is to replace wheel bearings while you got everything apart. Its one thing I wish I had done that I didn't. Its not fun taking those struts off in order to get to them.
Yep, already got those in the swivel ready to go! That's a huge part of what started all of this in the first place haha.

Along with new tie rods, control arms, stabilizer links, and trailing arms.
 

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That's a huge part of what started all of this in the first place haha.
Exact same thing happened to me, was doing brakes, and realized had a bad rear bearing. It wasnt making noises, so had to have car in the air to see the wobble/play. that ignited an entire suspension rebuild!
 

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I believe the front wheel bearings can be replaced without disconnecting the knuckle to strut bolt. I’ll look closer this afternoon.
Let us know, that would be good news.
 

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See picture. Top is actually on the left side of the picture as you can see where the strut comes through so keep this in mind when I talk about the orientation.

Both of the 18mm bolts on the left are accessible, 1 on the bottom right you can get to by sliding down the knuckle, the last (top right) is obscured by the strut body. So this is going to be tough, I’ve removed the front bearing assemblies but it was off the car.

Here are some tips that should save a few hours, I don’t think I’ve come across a DIY on this since very few ppl go though the trouble.
938390


You need to break these free (the ones you can get to) while the strut is attached as you need the counter torque of them mounted to the car in order to have a chance of breaking them free. They are red loctited in and are M12 bolts. Again I’d reinforce the statements that the car must be very securely supported as the torque to break these free WILL move the car. I was able to break these free with the whole assembly off the car, the strut was already removed but I put bit back in to counter hold the knuckle and I used my 1/2” impact. I had clear access because it was off the car and on the ground. To separate the bearing from the knuckle, you put the bolts back in, but threaded only like 1/2 deep and then hit the heads with a sledgehammer. Don’t even bother trying to pry the hub from the knuckle. The bearing and knuckle will be galvanized seized to each other because of the metal dissimilarity. Because the bolts are kinda still in it won’t go flying.

I think this can be done on the car but the knuckle has to be slid down enough so that you have access to that top right bolt, and if it is down that far, for sure there has to be something suspending it. If the lower control links are still in then that helps, but this is a major PITA job. I’ll look up what the factory procedure later to see what they say.
938389
 
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