BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
584 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Posted this yesterday, but it's disappeared...:dunno:

I need to replace my steering lock (have already done the tumbler & ignition switch and those didn't fix the problem). I've found posts by people that say they've done it, but none of them say how they've done it. I've gotten the shear bolts out, and pulled the tranny lock off, and the EDC receiver off. But the steering lock itself isn't as straightforward.

And I'd rather not break anything as I don't currently have a lot of $ to throw at new parts. Buying the tumbler & switch has been bad enough, especially since they didn't fix the problem. The lock was worse $-wise, and I'm guessing the rest of the stuff on/around the steering column is worse.

So, if someone could kindly tell me what the steps are to replacing the steering lock I'd be very thankful.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
584 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Nobody currently active on the board has done this? You guys have been great with tech questions and I would've bet one of you had taken a steering lock out and could point me in the right direction to doing it myself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
i did it today!!...

...and it was easy.
you need to get a 1.6mm allen key and turn the key to pos 1...then insert the allen key into the small whole that will be about 90 degrees on the barrel.it will need a wiggle but it will only need to go in about 25mm and the lock pops out.suprised me how easy it was after getting it right!
anyway...my problem was that the bit inside had sheared...i managed to get a part from a 520 at the breakers...£3!!
you need to modify it as the m5 and 520 have different location lugs....np,i just filed it off as once all together it wont matter.it just stops everything popping out if you remove the lock again.
hope this helps :haha:

ROB
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
584 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
...and it was easy.
you need to get a 1.6mm allen key and turn the key to pos 1...then insert the allen key into the small whole that will be about 90 degrees on the barrel.it will need a wiggle but it will only need to go in about 25mm and the lock pops out.suprised me how easy it was after getting it right!
anyway...my problem was that the bit inside had sheared...i managed to get a part from a 520 at the breakers...£3!!
you need to modify it as the m5 and 520 have different location lugs....np,i just filed it off as once all together it wont matter.it just stops everything popping out if you remove the lock again.
hope this helps :haha:

ROB
Unfortunately that's the procedure to replace the ignition tumbler (or ignition barrel if you call it that). I already replaced that, but mine didn't want to come out like that. My grease around the tumbler had gotten so old/dirty that it gummed up so bad that the pin/allen wrench/etc. wouldn't work.

I ended up cutting the retaining ring off the tumbler, pulling the guts out of the tumbler, and then pulling the tumbler release from inside the tumbler rather than outside the tumbler as the proper method does. Yeah, it ruins the tumbler, but if you're installing a new one that doesn't matter.

What I need to replace is part # 2 here
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HE63&mospid=47410&btnr=32_0908&hg=32&fg=30

The tumbler (#5) fits into the steering lock. The steering lock is what locks the steering wheel in place, engages the ignition switch (#3), and in my case also locks the transmission in park (via the locking cable which is #13). And my steering lock is broke so that it doesn't unlock the wheel, nor the tranny. And it also doesn't engage the ignition switch.

I've pulled the ignition switch & tranny lock off the column which has allowed me to stat the engine and get the tranny out of park. But as the steering is still locked it makes that all pointless.

When this is all done I shouldn't have any ignition problems from the steering column for quite some time as I've replaced the tumbler & switch already. After I get the new lock on that'll make everything brand new...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,109 Posts
Just want to add my 2 cents, because I've changed a lot of BMW steering & ignition locks.

I NEVER do this job without having a new lock cylinder, and a new lock housing. I really like to have new shear bolts and a new electric side of the ignition switch, too.

Many people just want to replace the lock cylinder, to save money....but very often, that does not fix the problem, because it's actually the lock housing that's broken. So after managing to get the old lock out, using an allen wrench or big paper clip, you slide the new lock cylinder in, and it doesn't work properly, and the steering stays locked. So you order the new lock housing, and go to remove the new lock cylinder.....and the allen wrench / paper clip doesn't work! Now, you need ANOTHER new lock cylinder, as well as the housing!

Besides, if you buy a new housing AND lock, you don't have to worry about getting the old lock out, you just get the shear bolts out, and remove the whole unit. A new electric switch is good, because the little slot where the mechanical side engages it is often worn out, by the time the mechanical side has failed.

I'm really not trying to cause anyone to spend more money than necessary, but this is one of those occasions when trying to save money can be expensive and infuriating.

Oh, the shear bolts are difficult, as they're supposed to be. If you have a dremel with a cutting wheel, cut a slot and use a flat screwdriver. If not, a hammer and chisel will cut a notch, which you then use to turn the shearbolt.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
10,456 Posts
Besides, if you buy a new housing AND lock, you don't have to worry about getting the old lock out, you just get the shear bolts out, and remove the whole unit. A new electric switch is good, because the little slot where the mechanical side engages it is often worn out, by the time the mechanical side has failed.

I'm really not trying to cause anyone to spend more money than necessary, but this is one of those occasions when trying to save money can be expensive and infuriating.

Oh, the shear bolts are difficult, as they're supposed to be. If you have a dremel with a cutting wheel, cut a slot and use a flat screwdriver. If not, a hammer and chisel will cut a notch, which you then use to turn the shearbolt.
When you order this is it already key'd to your car? in other words you don't need a new key right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,109 Posts
If you order from a dealership, and provide them with your license and matching registration, you can order a lock which matches your keys. For pre-EWS2 cars, you can alternately order a non-matching lock, which comes with a new key
 
  • Like
Reactions: mottati
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top