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Spark plugs and brakes.

1240 Views 9 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  cosioboy, 
D
Need some help,im looking to replace my spark plugs and wanted some advice on which are the best ones to get?
Also again on the brakes what pads and discs? dont think i will need a monster upgrade as its only for road use and maybe an odd track day.
Thank you.
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DavidS
Watch your step when it comes to spark plugs for the S62 engine.
If the sparkplug sheds a tiny bit of nickel plating into the cylinder, there is a high risk of scratching the cylinder wall. That means loss of compression.
There are no cylinder linings to change in an S62. The whole block is made of Alusil. There is no way to repair a scratched cylinder wall. A bad scratch means you will need a new block. Very expensive.

I would definitely suggest you stick with the OEM NKG plugs, and that you replace those every 50000 miles. Take the spark-plugs out once in a while and see how those look.

About brakes: search for posts by Zeckhausen, or look at his sponsor banner.

David
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I second that good advice. I was also tempted to replace my plugs with something wild like the Denso Iridium plugs...until I heard tales of electrodes melting off into the cylinder. Stick with the stock plugs and avoid problems!
:cheers:
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D
Thanks alot ill get some original ones to make sure. Ive looked at that site,was wondering if there are uk based companies for discs and pads?
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C
I am actually doing my Inspection II this weekend (and a CAI actually), which among other things includes replacing the spark plugs. Did a lot or research, and I will stick with the OEM NGK spark plugs. I have seen other board members use the Bosch Platinum, but I am sticking with what's recommended. Interesting how the Bosch are BMW ercommended for every other model except the Beast it seems. Anyway, here are the part numbers in case you are interested:
  • NGK - BKR6EQUP
  • Bosch - FGR7DQP
Also, I am changing all the fliuds: coolant, brake, as well as Diff fliud. There seems to be some disagreement on the later - according to BMW you change the Diff fluid only once at 1200 miles, then it is good for lifetime. I am very skeptical for anything that has a claim of lifetime use, especially when it is a fluid, so I will do the safe thing and replace it. What do you guys think?

Inspection II is pretty much DIY, other then the items mentioned above, one simply needs to replace the air filters and cabin carbon filters. All parts will run you under $200, and no need to go to the stealer as he'll do the same and kick the tires for about $1K.
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DavidS
If think it is a good idea to change the fluids.

The coolant has a very important anti-corrosion function and should be replaced every two years. It has some rather nasty chemicals in it, so don´t get it on you and don´t pour it down the drain. There is lots of coolant. Use a very big pan. You will need to remove several plugs to get all the coolant out. When you fill up: fill up, put the cap back on and start the engine, let it idle for a while, then shut down and top up. repeat until no more trapped air shows.

The used diff fluid stinks unbelievably. The smell is really offensive. Worse than a dead animal baked in sun.
Then new diff fluid just smells like oil. It is extremely important to get the exact right diff fluid. You need the one that is designed for use with a limited slip differential. Put the wrong fluid in and you will ruin the limited slip mechanism and have just a plain diff.

While you are at it, why not swap the transmission fluid too?
Power steering fluid?

Measure the brake discs and the brake pads too.
Check the battery.
Some lithium molybden grease on the door hinges and brakes are a good idea.
And some Gummipflege (aka BMW Rubber Cleaner) on the door seals.

David
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DavidS said:
If think it is a good idea to change the fluids.

The coolant has a very important anti-corrosion function and should be replaced every two years. It has some rather nasty chemicals in it, so don´t get it on you and don´t pour it down the drain. There is lots of coolant. Use a very big pan. You will need to remove several plugs to get all the coolant out. When you fill up: fill up, put the cap back on and start the engine, let it idle for a while, then shut down and top up. repeat until no more trapped air shows.

The used diff fluid stinks unbelievably. The smell is really offensive. Worse than a dead animal baked in sun.
Then new diff fluid just smells like oil. It is extremely important to get the exact right diff fluid. You need the one that is designed for use with a limited slip differential. Put the wrong fluid in and you will ruin the limited slip mechanism and have just a plain diff.

While you are at it, why not swap the transmission fluid too?
Power steering fluid?

Measure the brake discs and the brake pads too.
Check the battery.
Some lithium molybden grease on the door hinges and brakes are a good idea.
And some Gummipflege (aka BMW Rubber Cleaner) on the door seals.

David
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Thanks for your articulate response, David, very much in your style, as usual quite detailed and knowledgeable. :thumbsup: <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>

<o:p></o:p>

I'll do the draining of fluids in a shop, so that all old fluids will be disposed of properly. As far as the Diff fluid, I am getting that from the stealer, so I am assured it is indeed the recommended one. As a matter of fact, I got most things (filters, plugs) from the stealer, but Pacific BMW, which have very good pricing on their mail orders. Unfortunately, they don’t ship fluids, so I’ll have to get them locally, but luckily, these are not high priced items so the mark-up won’t be terrible. <o:p></o:p>

<o:p> </o:p>

Good call on the tranny and steering fluid, might as well do them too while I am at it. <o:p></o:p>

<o:p> </o:p>

Brakes I did recently, needed to change front pads (disks holding on OK), and adjust the parking brake as it didn’t grab well. Now all is good.<o:p></o:p>

<o:p> </o:p>

<o:p> </o:p>

Lastly, door seals. I actually changed last month the driver’s side seals which helped with the E39 chronic seals-rubbing-into-eachother sound problem and I got a non-silicon seal protector from BMW (made by Wurth I believe). While that helped, I still have the sound, noticeable mostly while going through cobblestone streets and hard surfaces. :grrrr: I guess life can't be perfect...<o:p></o:p>
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<<Brakes I did recently, needed to change front pads (disks holding on OK), and adjust the parking brake as it didn’t grab well. Now all is good.<O:p></O:p>




How do you adjust the parking brake? Mine is horrible!!!

thanks... josh
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DavidS
Just want to point out I ment to grease the door hinges and the door brakes. Not the big brakes...

The parking brake adjustment IMHO is best left to a good pro with a brake tester.

David
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jkarp said:
<




How do you adjust the parking brake? Mine is horrible!!!

thanks... josh
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I had it done professionally, as David suggests. It was a 20 minutes fix, biggest problem was actually getting the brake system apart as it almost 'welded' together over the years, but there should be plenty of life in your parking brake shoes, so just a simple adjustment would be needed.
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