Sorry, I must be blind? Brakes?

4146 Views 31 Replies 19 Participants Last post by TravisBurrell, Feb 29, 2012

TravisBurrell

Discussion Starter · Jan 15, 2011

I'm sorry. I feel like an idiot and I have been searching for a while now but cannot find anything on this forum on Brake Replacement! Something as simple as replacing pads and rotors. I went here...

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e3...34-e39-m5-frequently-asked-questions-faq.html

...but couldnt find the basic brake change thread.

I am getting ready to change the pads and possibly rotors but I wanted to see if there was anything special or if it was a pretty simple procedure like other vehicles.
Sorry.

-Travis

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

bhoffma1

· #2 · Jan 15, 2011

Just did mine... Two allen bolts to remove the caliper. Unscrew the rotor screw. 15 minutes per wheel...max

TravisBurrell

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jan 15, 2011

rotor screw? hmmm. I wish I could find pics. Calipers shouldn't be difficult then.

bhoffma1

· #4 · Jan 15, 2011

Really straightforward. Just dive in...

TravisBurrell

Discussion Starter · #5 · Jan 15, 2011

lol. thanks. I also found this. But thanks.

How I installed new brake pads on my 1999 528i with Sport Package (should be fine for other E39’s)

Reactions: 1

beastheimer

· #6 · Jan 15, 2011

Check out these threads

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http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=882340&highlight=brake+caliper+torque<o

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http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=986325<o

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ersonal; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-unhide:no; mso-ansi-font-size:10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Arial; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family:Arial; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial; font-weight:bold;} .MsoChpDefault {mso-style-type:export-only; mso-default-props:yes; font-size:10.0pt; mso-ansi-font-size:10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size:10.0pt;} @page WordSection1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.WordSection1 {page:WordSection1;} --> </style> Front Brake Torque Values

Brake rotor to hub 12 ft-lb
Brake caliper to pad carrier ( 7 mm Allen ) - 22 ft-lb
Front brake pad carrier to steering knuckle 81 ft-lb<o

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Hdhntr23

· #7 · Jan 15, 2011

Travis, wicked easy. Hardest part it getting the tension spring off. That is unless your rotor is rusted onto the hub.

Current Interior Mods:

MKIV, Sirius Retrofit, BlueTooth Retro-Fit, E60 SSK, ACS Aluminum Pedals, 30% Window Tint, TEC CupHolder, 2X's Ultimate Cup Holders, Full LED upgrade (Thanks Timmay77), "M" Stitched Alcantara Shiftboot and E-Brake boot, CF Steering wheel trim (Thanks CGRM5), Euro-Dash (Thanks Raz and Timmay77), Hella TC-400 TPMS, Scosche BlueTooth 2.0 A2DP Adapter (Thanks btmlinedan) Euro "Safety kit" Fire Extinguisher and First Aid box (Thanks Slimmbones)

Current Exterior Mods:

"Always-On" DRL Predator ICE LED 6000K AE's (Thanks Timmay77 and NavCoder), C-Fiber Kidney Grills (Thanks Havasusteve03Beast), ACS C-Fiber Roof Spoiler, ACS Flipper style C-Fiber Front Splitters, C-Fiber OEM Trunk Spoiler, C-Fiber Eye-Lids (Thanks CGRM5), Custom "vented" C-Fiber Rear Diffuser (Thanks Timmay77, ATLANTAM5 and Diny), Euro Headlights, (Thanks CGRM5), C-Fiber 6 piece window sills, 7 Piece C-Fiber Blue/Grey Roundels, Stainless vented custom Fog-Light frames, Hamann style sideskirts w/ CFiber Inserts, Projector Fogs

Current Performance Mods:

Dinan Exhaust cans (Thanks Timmay77 and btmlinedan), Brake duct mod with "Black Chrome" custom rings (Thanks Timmay77 and Diny), Dinan RSB with BeastPower brackets (Thanks Firehire, MFreakin5 and btmlinedan), Stoptech slotted rotors with StopTech Street Performance Brake Pads (Thanks Zeckhausen Racing Timmay77 and Lunker325)

TravisBurrell

Discussion Starter · #8 · Jan 15, 2011

So wait.... the only thing holding the damn rotor to the hub is ONE screw and the caliper/pads??????
How does that hold up!?

wow. I didn't know that the bolts required torque specks. I thought that was just wheels. now I have to buy a 7mm allen for a torque wrench. (I have to buy a torque wrench also.

Hdhntr23

· #9 · Jan 15, 2011 (Edited)

Everything on our cars have a torque value bro. I wanna say there are 2 screws on the rotor but I may be wrong I cant remember.

Current Interior Mods:

MKIV, Sirius Retrofit, BlueTooth Retro-Fit, E60 SSK, ACS Aluminum Pedals, 30% Window Tint, TEC CupHolder, 2X's Ultimate Cup Holders, Full LED upgrade (Thanks Timmay77), "M" Stitched Alcantara Shiftboot and E-Brake boot, CF Steering wheel trim (Thanks CGRM5), Euro-Dash (Thanks Raz and Timmay77), Hella TC-400 TPMS, Scosche BlueTooth 2.0 A2DP Adapter (Thanks btmlinedan) Euro "Safety kit" Fire Extinguisher and First Aid box (Thanks Slimmbones)

Current Exterior Mods:

"Always-On" DRL Predator ICE LED 6000K AE's (Thanks Timmay77 and NavCoder), C-Fiber Kidney Grills (Thanks Havasusteve03Beast), ACS C-Fiber Roof Spoiler, ACS Flipper style C-Fiber Front Splitters, C-Fiber OEM Trunk Spoiler, C-Fiber Eye-Lids (Thanks CGRM5), Custom "vented" C-Fiber Rear Diffuser (Thanks Timmay77, ATLANTAM5 and Diny), Euro Headlights, (Thanks CGRM5), C-Fiber 6 piece window sills, 7 Piece C-Fiber Blue/Grey Roundels, Stainless vented custom Fog-Light frames, Hamann style sideskirts w/ CFiber Inserts, Projector Fogs

Current Performance Mods:

Dinan Exhaust cans (Thanks Timmay77 and btmlinedan), Brake duct mod with "Black Chrome" custom rings (Thanks Timmay77 and Diny), Dinan RSB with BeastPower brackets (Thanks Firehire, MFreakin5 and btmlinedan), Stoptech slotted rotors with StopTech Street Performance Brake Pads (Thanks Zeckhausen Racing Timmay77 and Lunker325)

kindanutz

· #10 · Jan 15, 2011

TravisBurrell said:
So wait.... the only thing holding the damn rotor to the hub is ONE screw and the caliper/pads??????
How does that hold up!?

wow. I didn't know that the bolts required torque specks. I thought that was just wheels. now I have to buy a 7mm allen for a torque wrench. (I have to buy a torque wrench also.

No it's not just one screw that holds the rotor... The rim, when properly torqued down holds the rotor onto the hub... Most cars don't even have screws that hold the rotor to the hub like the E39...

Reactions: 1

Burnout_187

· #11 · Jan 15, 2011

Hdhntr23 said:
Everything on our cars have a torque value bro. I wanna say there are 2 screws on the rotor but I may be wrong I cant remember.

hihi, what is torque to left chainquide bolt?

Brakes is quite easy to dissamble, 2 16mm bolts away then the brakes is away, change pads and if they dont fit open bleeding screw and push brakepistons back in and then assemble.

MrCrashRR

· #12 · Jan 15, 2011

10

:checkeredflag:

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MrCrashRR

· #13 · Jan 15, 2011 (Edited)

2

Sorry I never posted up a formal DIY. I do have lots of pictures if you need anything.

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timmay77

· #14 · Jan 15, 2011 (Edited)

An impact screw driver makes this much easier. The tips can be removed and an allen socket can be put on. Helps to break free the bolt if it is a bit frozen.

See less See more

Reactions: 1

TravisBurrell

Discussion Starter · #15 · Jan 16, 2011

Does this sensor HAVE to be replaced everytime rotors are replaced? What about just replacing pads? Do they have to be replaced then??
I never had to bleed the brakes when pushing the piston back on my Nissan. Do the brakes HAVE to be bled on the M5s when pressing the piston back to get the new pads on?

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Hdhntr23

· #16 · Jan 16, 2011

Sensor only needs replaced if you have a warning msg. If not then you havent tripped that sensor.

Current Interior Mods:

MKIV, Sirius Retrofit, BlueTooth Retro-Fit, E60 SSK, ACS Aluminum Pedals, 30% Window Tint, TEC CupHolder, 2X's Ultimate Cup Holders, Full LED upgrade (Thanks Timmay77), "M" Stitched Alcantara Shiftboot and E-Brake boot, CF Steering wheel trim (Thanks CGRM5), Euro-Dash (Thanks Raz and Timmay77), Hella TC-400 TPMS, Scosche BlueTooth 2.0 A2DP Adapter (Thanks btmlinedan) Euro "Safety kit" Fire Extinguisher and First Aid box (Thanks Slimmbones)

Current Exterior Mods:

"Always-On" DRL Predator ICE LED 6000K AE's (Thanks Timmay77 and NavCoder), C-Fiber Kidney Grills (Thanks Havasusteve03Beast), ACS C-Fiber Roof Spoiler, ACS Flipper style C-Fiber Front Splitters, C-Fiber OEM Trunk Spoiler, C-Fiber Eye-Lids (Thanks CGRM5), Custom "vented" C-Fiber Rear Diffuser (Thanks Timmay77, ATLANTAM5 and Diny), Euro Headlights, (Thanks CGRM5), C-Fiber 6 piece window sills, 7 Piece C-Fiber Blue/Grey Roundels, Stainless vented custom Fog-Light frames, Hamann style sideskirts w/ CFiber Inserts, Projector Fogs

Current Performance Mods:

Dinan Exhaust cans (Thanks Timmay77 and btmlinedan), Brake duct mod with "Black Chrome" custom rings (Thanks Timmay77 and Diny), Dinan RSB with BeastPower brackets (Thanks Firehire, MFreakin5 and btmlinedan), Stoptech slotted rotors with StopTech Street Performance Brake Pads (Thanks Zeckhausen Racing Timmay77 and Lunker325)

beastheimer

· #17 · Jan 16, 2011

TravisBurrell said:
Does this sensor HAVE to be replaced everytime rotors are replaced? What about just replacing pads? Do they have to be replaced then??
I never had to bleed the brakes when pushing the piston back on my Nissan. Do the brakes HAVE to be bled on the M5s when pressing the piston back to get the new pads on?

No, you should not have to bleed the brakes. But you should take the cap off the the master brake cylinder before pushing the brake piston back in.

Hdhntr23

· #18 · Jan 16, 2011

beastheimer said:
No, you should not have to bleed the brakes. But you should take the cap off the the master brake cylinder before pushing the brake piston back in.

Also do it VERY slowly.

Current Interior Mods:

MKIV, Sirius Retrofit, BlueTooth Retro-Fit, E60 SSK, ACS Aluminum Pedals, 30% Window Tint, TEC CupHolder, 2X's Ultimate Cup Holders, Full LED upgrade (Thanks Timmay77), "M" Stitched Alcantara Shiftboot and E-Brake boot, CF Steering wheel trim (Thanks CGRM5), Euro-Dash (Thanks Raz and Timmay77), Hella TC-400 TPMS, Scosche BlueTooth 2.0 A2DP Adapter (Thanks btmlinedan) Euro "Safety kit" Fire Extinguisher and First Aid box (Thanks Slimmbones)

Current Exterior Mods:

"Always-On" DRL Predator ICE LED 6000K AE's (Thanks Timmay77 and NavCoder), C-Fiber Kidney Grills (Thanks Havasusteve03Beast), ACS C-Fiber Roof Spoiler, ACS Flipper style C-Fiber Front Splitters, C-Fiber OEM Trunk Spoiler, C-Fiber Eye-Lids (Thanks CGRM5), Custom "vented" C-Fiber Rear Diffuser (Thanks Timmay77, ATLANTAM5 and Diny), Euro Headlights, (Thanks CGRM5), C-Fiber 6 piece window sills, 7 Piece C-Fiber Blue/Grey Roundels, Stainless vented custom Fog-Light frames, Hamann style sideskirts w/ CFiber Inserts, Projector Fogs

Current Performance Mods:

Dinan Exhaust cans (Thanks Timmay77 and btmlinedan), Brake duct mod with "Black Chrome" custom rings (Thanks Timmay77 and Diny), Dinan RSB with BeastPower brackets (Thanks Firehire, MFreakin5 and btmlinedan), Stoptech slotted rotors with StopTech Street Performance Brake Pads (Thanks Zeckhausen Racing Timmay77 and Lunker325)

thrty8street

· #19 · Jan 16, 2011

nice pictorial

bimmerule

· #20 · Feb 5, 2012

timmay77 said:
An impact screw driver makes this much easier. The tips can be removed and an allen socket can be put on. Helps to break free the bolt if it is a bit frozen.

How does this work? Is it battery powered or pneumatic?

Maint: Liqui Moly 10W60 Race Tech GT1 Engine Oil, Pentosin MTF2, Mobil1 Full Synthetic ATF Steering Fluid, ATE Super Gold Brake Fluid
Wheels: Style 65 18x9.5" Squared 275/35/18 Dunlop Direzza Z1 Sport Star Spec, 3mm Front Spacers, Turner Motorsports Extended Bolts
Braking: Genuine BMW Rotors, Pagid Yellow RS 19 Endurance Racing Compound, Titanium Backing Plates, Open Brake Ducts, FTE Lines
Handling: Intrax Racing Springs, Bilstein B8 Monotube Dampers, Ground Control Camber Plates, Dinan Strut Tower Brace, Dinan Rear Sway Bar, X5 Thrust Arm Bushing
Power: Is Nothing Without Control, Stock Motor Dyno'd @ 341WHP, 319LB-FT Dynojet.
Aero: None Yet
Race: [email protected] Englishtown, Lime Rock Park 1'09.9", New Jersey Motorsport Park Lightning Circuit 1'23.420", Thunderbolt Circuit 1'44.2", Watkins Glen International *tbd, Monticello Motor Club *tbd.
Gear: Bell SA2010 Sport Helmet, Sparco Tornado Racing Gloves, Sparco Speed+ Racing Shoes, OMP Balaclava
Winter: Style 66 17x8, 17x9 Staggered 235/45/17-245/45/17 Bridgestone Blizzak WS70 Studless Snows
Interior: E60 SSK, ZHP Shift Knob, MK4 Navigation, Umnitza VXX Angle Eyes, Brushed Aluminum Trim Swap
Favorite Quote: "Understeer is when you hit the wall with your front end. Oversteer is when you hit the wall with your back end. Horsepower is how hard you hit the wall. Torque is how far you move the wall when you hit it. hiha "

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