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Discussion Starter #1
Morning guys,

I have searched and searched and not found the answers, maybe someone could answer so I have this clear in my head? THANKS
Last night I bled the brake lines with a goal of 'replacing' the old fluid. Everything went well, just as described here in the DIYs, until I got to the front left bleeder valve. Nothing would come out of the valve so I loosened it some more, to the point the fluid started coming out where the threads enter the housing. The fluid had lots of 'crap' coming out with it. So, I assumed the hole was blocked and pulled the valve all the way out. It turns out the bottom of the valve was rusted to almost nothing, which explains why nothing came out the top of it. NBD, I found the part # (34116768018) on realoem, called the dealer and confirmed it and went to pick it up. Got the thing home and realized it is about twice the size of the one on the car. So, the parts guy is at a loss and I don't know where to search next to find a good part number for the bleeder valve, does anyone here know?
Second question is, should I replace the brake line to the front left? Assuming the line is rusting internally too if the bleeder valve was?

Finally, clutch bleeding... I want to do this to get the old fluid out. So, having never done this before I am a bit confused and haven't found the answer through a couple hours of reading on here. Am I correct in thinking I can just hook a line to the bleeder valve on the clutch slave and pressurizing the reservoir with my motive pump open the bleeder valve and wait for clear liquid to flow? It seems the process of removing the slave and tilting it so the bleeder valve is up is only for when you know you have air in the lines?

Thanks guys. After 14 years of owning the car I thought it time I do some of this stuff myself. A painful learning curve but impossible without the awesome resource that this board is. THANKS!
 

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The bleeder valve is a standard part, your local auto parts place probably has them in the "Help" section. There is no reason to assume the the flex line is damaged. Once you get a bleeder on the caliper and bleed the brakes again you will be able to tell if there is an issue. Odds are that it is fine since you didn't experience a loss of pressure.

For the clutch since you are pressure bleeding you can leave it in place, although if you do get air into it you will have to remove the slave cylinder (not a huge process).



PLEASE NOTE THAT I DO NOT OWN AN M5 AND THIS POST IS NOT INTENDED TO BE ARROGANT. PLEASE READ THE IMPORTANT REVISED DISCLAIMER THAT APPLIES TO THIS POST
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Mystery solved and case closed with regard to the bleeder valve. Turns out the BMW parts databases have an incorrect part number for the front brake ventilation valves. The correct part number is 34 11 6 758 107, same as the rears.
Hope that saves someone else some frustration.
 

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The brake bleeder was probably plugged and corroded from water getting in from the outside. Was the rubber protective cap damaged or missing?
 
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