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Hi,
So just bought an 2006 m5 last week and it was driving fine. Day before yesterday I got a transmission failsafe error and it said that car wont be able to start after shut off but then the error went away by itself in 2 seconds and the car drive normally.

It happened again today but then the car turned off by itself and now wont turn off. The error was the red cog both the times.

So I got a mechanic with a scanner to check the errors and am attaching herewith the errors that it is showing. Even if he removes the codes the car wont start and If i try to tow it although the N light is blinking the wheels are locked. I am having the drive shaft disconnected to tow it as cannot find a recovery without wheel dollys.

Where in the transmission should I start looking at to resolve the issue.

Thanks for the help in advance
 

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If you had only pressure related errors it'd be the pump motor. But you have other codes as well. Are you posting the codes found before or after clearing codes? Doesn't seem like your guy cleared codes.

Before you decide to tow it, disconnect the battery for 30 minutes and try again. This should reset the smg ecu pump protections (similar to clearing codes).
 

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How is your battery ? Each time I had SMG codes it was a nearly drained battery


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I would bet a large amount of money the voltage regulator on your alternator is crapping out ($30 part), did other modules have under voltage / over voltage faults?

What ends up happening is the dying regulator sends anywhere between 5v and 20v (rater than ~12v) through the car and modules turn off via their built in voltage protection schemes. So you'd be driving and for example the CCC unit and hvac just goes black.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for all the replies. It turns out battery is pretty drained. Will have it charged or replaced on Monday and report back.
 

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Blinking gears in the HUD means transmission is unable to engage in a gear. That can be a result of a number of things. You are showing code 4FA0 and that is saying that the car can’t tell the clutch position, that means a potentially faulty slave cylinder and/or clutch position sensor.


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I am having the drive shaft disconnected to tow it as cannot find a recovery without wheel dollys.
Harbor freight sells the self loading wheel dollys. The most well known ones are the purple ones made by GoJak, which are quite pricey. I was just flipping through their mailer and it seems their cheapest version is under the Pittsburgh brand at $90 each (item 61917), and they have premium version under the Daytona brand (item 64601) that is on sale now for $130 each. You can also use their 20% or 25% coupon on one item, but it excludes any Daytona branded items. It's not a bad idea to just get 2 of these. It may be cheaper than have someone disconnect and reconnect the driveshaft.

To be a really prepared boy scout, you could put 2 of these in your trunk. With my SMG M5, I always park it in N and use the parking brake. I never leave it in P. You may also already know that if a flat bed drags the car backwards on to the bed (because you can't get to neutral), the engine WILL rotate backwards and turn your VANOS gears backwards which is a big no-no. I think I read this from Jim Colley in a post he had several years back on this forum as something to watch out for.
 

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Always start with the battery. No SMG pressure, no gear change. When I was servicing mine and could not get pressure the car would do nothing even if it was in neutral. Get the juice up and if you can get the car to start you can check the voltage easy. If that is all good go for the relay in the EBOX for the SMG pump. After that you are under the car looking at the SMG system point by point. This is where INPA comes in handy, you can look at all of the details in one place. I would not own a BMW without it. And most important, don't throw parts! Find the problem and fix the problem. Too much money is wasted on these cars without really knowing what is wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks alot guys the car started yesterday and drive fine. Here is what the mechanic tells me. He recharged the battery and removed some harness under the car for the smg for 30 mins. Then plugged it back. Then he ran some gear diagnostic on the scanner for each gear and the car started up.

I drove it back home last night and it ran perfectly.

What should I look into to avoid being stranded on the road again. I am attaching herewith the errors that are still on it.
934040
¹
 

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Glad you got it going. Make sure you have a fresh agm battery. Replacement of the SMG pump relay is cheap and easy. When I did mine the old relay was marked 40A and the new one was 60A and physically larger.
 

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Bad battery and/or bad voltage regulator on the alternator. You're having voltage supply issues, rather than anything mechanical.

 

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I'd expect to see a lot more codes from other ecus with a bad regulator. I only see 5103 from the smg so I wouldn't change the regulator just off of one code. No mention of idrive and cluster showing Christmas lights either. IMO much more likely is the pump motor, which matches everything so far but for the 5103. I would wait for it to fail again (cause it will) and see what codes show up.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok so I drove it again 2 times after I brought it home and it started doing it again. It did it yesterday when I drove it very hard and again it went into N and would not shift. I was stranded on the road so as a long **** tried disconnecting the battery for 3 mins and then reconnected it. I hear the smg pump priming and it started up and drove normal like nothing happened.

I drove it again in the evening and it drives amazing but again same issue came.

I have bought the smg pump and will be changing it this week. Should I change anything else also?

I hope that sorts the issue.
 

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The relay, I believe the original one was 40amp and the replacement will be 60amp. I assume you are talking about the motor not the pump? If you get the motor kit it should have all of the seals. Look in the DYI section for some great insight into the job. May sure you have the software to bleed and test the motor after service. Don't forget to loosen the bleed screw on the bottom when priming. And lastly you will need some fresh oil.
 

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The relay, I believe the original one was 40amp and the replacement will be 60amp. I assume you are talking about the motor not the pump? If you get the motor kit it should have all of the seals. Look in the DYI section for some great insight into the job. May sure you have the software to bleed and test the motor after service. Don't forget to loosen the bleed screw on the bottom when priming. And lastly you will need some fresh oil.
Thanks would you have the part number for the relay?
 

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The SMG hydraulic pump motor relay PN is 61366901469.

Never seen anything fixed by changing the relay, but I agree it should be changed as it's such a cheap part anyway.

Edit: Just spent some time fixing the relay DIY posts. Look at the sticky post, it's all there now.

 

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I know the relay I took out had 40A printed on it and the replacement from ECS had 60A on it. The funky thing about relays is they built up carbon between the contacts because there is nothing to extinguish the arc. High current relays are even worse. That small motor pumping up that much pressure takes a crap load of current. If your accumulator is shot it would make matters even worse. Having the soft ware to run and observe the test is vital.
 

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Yes! Contact arcing is exactly why I added a plain diode in parallel with the motor (takes care of the motor inductive kickback). I installed it within the ECU box: the whole strip at the back of the box is part of the SMG harness. The motor takes less than 10A during normal operation. It's got a 15A fuse so it can't take more than that. A worn/bad accumulator would result in short cycling, not really a change in current.
 
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