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The 4 O-rings that come with the motor kit, where does the second largest o-ring go? I labeled this as o-ring #2 in the picture.

Also, I'm assuming #3 and #4 are for the pump and #1 is the large o-ring that goes around oval extrusion of the pump body for sealing the reservoir?
Planning to do this over the weekend but I am having a hard time determining where o rings 3 and 4 go, particularly #4. Does anyone have pics as to where these go?

Also, does anyone have a pic of what the reservoir looks like for filling the fluid and would I just fill it all the way? Going off whatever is currently in there isn't the best approach imho because in the event the system had a slow leak the existing fluid level would not be up to spec.

Just want to make sure I know exactly what I'm getting into so I don't get stuck lol.
 

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Planning to do this over the weekend but I am having a hard time determining where o rings 3 and 4 go, particularly #4. Does anyone have pics as to where these go?

Also, does anyone have a pic of what the reservoir looks like for filling the fluid and would I just fill it all the way? Going off whatever is currently in there isn't the best approach imho because in the event the system had a slow leak the existing fluid level would not be up to spec.

Just want to make sure I know exactly what I'm getting into so I don't get stuck lol.
Are you aware of newtis.com?
 

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Well I got this job done. I was going after the rear diff input shaft seal and after pulling down the exhaust and shielding I figured what the heck. The write up is excellent but of course I had a few bumps of my own. When the clutch was done by the PO the slave cylinder wire was on the outside of the reservoir, I had to cut the plastic just behind the mounting bolt to move the wire and get the reservoir out. I tried removing the bolt and slave cylinder sensor but one of those is $400 and it was fighting back so I left it alone.
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The motor was not really in that bad of shape. The brushes looked good so I just cleaned up the carbon dust and put it back together.
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Then the real trouble started. I was running INPA for the bleed procedure. In the middle of the procedure the laptop died. When I got the power cord hooked up and tried to restart INPA it would not communicate with the car. I had code 10 on the com port in the device manager. I reloaded INPA several times and even used different versions. In the end I could not get it too work. I ordered another cable and tried my old XP laptop, Success! After several attempts to bleed the pump it was time to investigate.

I could hear the relay but not the pump. I checked for power at the pump and that was good but still no sound. I removed the reservoir and the pump again. With my son running the software we tested the motor, I moved the shaft a little and it took right off. It was plenty loud to be heard. To make a long story short after several attempts to mount the pump only to have it stop I filed a little burr off of the coupling, put some grease on it to hold it in place and put it up on the motor and then mounted the pump. Success! with the bleed screw loose it primed in about two seconds.
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I got the o-rings from FAMS but I'm not really sure they were necessary? The o-rings were in pretty good shape. The oil was light brown and the new stuff was green so I'm not sure that this was touched when the PO had the clutch done. Overall now that I'm done it really wasn't that bad. My biggest piece of advice to add would be to test run the pump before you mount the reservoir and bolt the tranny back up. Test ran the car and everything works just fine.
 

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Did you scrape the number stampings off the motor brushes? Those cause them to not slide freely causing most 4F40 / 43 errors.
 

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Glad you were able to sort it out, thanks for sharing. I replaced the SMG pump motor this past summer and ran into almost the exact issue. On the first round I didn’t align the motor to pump correctly and as a result the pump couldn’t turn once the relay was connected. I noticed it when I placed my hand on the motor and felt it very hot . Had to remove everything, align the pump slot to the motor and test the motor before installing the reservoir.


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Did you scrape the number stampings off the motor brushes? Those cause them to not slide freely causing most 4F40 / 43 errors.
I did not. I did pull the brushes and inspect the stamping but it looked good and I just didn't feel it was necessary. Call it nerves, because of all of my experience with machinery I hesitate to do things like that.
 

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When my SMG motor failed I struggled whether to install a new motor I had previously bought or simply file the stampings off the brushes on the old motor, as it was in great shape otherwise. Comparing both new and used motors it was obvious how the brushes slid freely on the new one. Don't know why but over time brushes end up sticking to the holder right where the stampings are. In the end I installed the new motor but first I removed stampings.

Looks like your motor has a date of 12/11 on it? If so it's been already replaced at some point (either whole smg assy or motor only).
 

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Yeah I guess that is the down side of a 110k multi-owner car you don't really know what has been done. I know it got rod bearings and a clutch 2x. For 11k I'm really happy with the car especially at 500hp with the DSC off!
 
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