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Discussion Starter #1
So, in addition to rod bearings, I changed out the slave cylinder, PLCD sensor, and pump motor on the SMG. I filled the reservoir with hydraulic fluid, loosened the bleed screw a few turns on the hydraulic block and just let the pump motor come on by itself. I drained about a half liter at a time and then tightened the screw so the pump would stop. Then I added more fluid in the reservoir and repeated a couple times just to purge out any junk that hadn't come out when I disassembled it for changing the pump.

Everything looked and sounded good, so I tightened the bleed screw and moved on to the actuator block and slave cylinder bleeding procedure. I ran through this process in ISTA a few times with no faults and proceeded to teach in clutch valve characteristics. The procedure didn't "end correctly" and I got:

Fault message: [132] Timeout during determination of valve coverage.

936555


Not really sure where to go from here. Pretty much every wear component for the SMG has been replaced.. the clutch, pivot pin, thrust bearing, pilot bearing, slave cylinder, PLCD sensor, pump motor and seals, junk wiring for the gearshift position sensor harness, and obviously new MTF2 and CHF 11s.

I ran the ISTA procedures with the engine cold and with a charger attached to the battery. With the charger attached, the voltage measured around 13.3v with short drops (few seconds) to around 13.1v whenever the SMG pump ran.

On another note, nothing blew up when I started the engine after replacing rod bearings.. so, there's that. However, the power steering fluid got pretty frothy at the reservoir and the pump sounded pretty gross. I turned the rack lock to lock a few times and shut off the engine. I'm thinking maybe I'll let the froth settle and try again later. Does anyone have any suggestions on bleeding the power steering or should I just continue the same procedure until no more noise and no more froth? I'm not sure this makes a difference, but the car is still on the lift and tie rods are disconnected. So, no load on the rack. I would think this would be better to bleed the power steering under little to no load.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I guess I'll try flushing fluid through the bleed screw again and run through the actuator and slave venting procedure.

Can anyone else share their experience bleeding their SMG? Does your pump automatically just come on after loosening the bleed screw like mine does? I'm assuming this happens because it senses low accumulator pressure, but all the instructions I've found have said to activate the pump from ISTA/DIS/INPA.
 

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No need to open the bleed screw anymore. Yes to running the SMG bleed routine 3 more times (or 5). Air in the hydraulic system will prevent you from completing adaptations. ISTA shows the steps in which all routines (bleed/adaptations) should be run. Won't tell you to run bleed routine several times tho. Also check the fluid level again.

If this doesn't work then you likely have a hardware issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No need to open the bleed screw anymore. Yes to running the SMG bleed routine 3 more times (or 5). Air in the hydraulic system will prevent you from completing adaptations. ISTA shows the steps in which all routines (bleed/adaptations) should be run. Won't tell you to run bleed routine several times tho. Also check the fluid level again.

If this doesn't work then you likely have a hardware issue.
Considering that I've replaced pretty much everything except the directional control valve, do you think that would be the problem or is there any other possibility?

I was actually going to replace this valve and had it sitting in my cart for a few days while I was verifying I didn't need anything else before I completed the order... and then, I went to complete the order and the valve had doubled in price from around $800 to $1600. I called and asked wtf and was told BMW simply raised the price. Theft. So, anyway, I ended up not buying one.

Also, when you loosened the bleed screw, did your pump automatically kick on like mine or did you have to manually start the pump? I'm just trying to make sure there's not some kind of malfunction of the check valve. If I leave the screw loose, my pump will just continue to kick on and off to charge the accumulator as it's pressure drops below its set point.
 

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Jim mentioned the clutch valve rarely or never fails. Orings however leak.

The check valve screw is only good to get the pump going. Not really a bleed screw. If you leave it open and oil keeps coming out it makes sense that the pump will kick on and off. You must have a lot of pentosin cans lol...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
@flacoramos lol, I just catch the fluid and run it through a fine mesh paint filter. I did remove the directional control valve and replaced the o rings, so that part of the circuit got opened up. Maybe it's just an air pocket that needs to be purged. I can't imagine it taking more than a few bleed cycles to accomplish that, though.

If the valve needs to be replaced, though, I think I'll remanufacture/refurbish one rather than pay $1600-1700 for one from BMW. I have a spare used valve that I found on eBay for $180 a couple months ago so I bought it after the price of the valve doubled.
 

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It is possible the orings got damaged during install. If you had to use the screws to get the valve in chances are you nicked an oring. Happened to me. It should go in by hand. Winter will be tough, I had to bake the valve with orings to get them soft so it went in by hand.

Honestly I'd run the bleed routine 5 times first and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I don't remember exactly what I did, but I usually use the screws to install parts with o rings on the OD simply to ensure that they're seated evenly, torquing each screw a little under a quarter turn at a time then removing the screws and rotating the part back and forth once seated. The bore and o rings were also greased. Had I pushed them in by hand, I'm sure they would have clicked in place relatively easily. I also removed one of the shift rod solenoids to have a look at the difference in the cartridges and I remember pushing that one in by hand after replacing the o rings.

The problem I was having with the SMG before I decided to replace the slave cylinder and the other parts mentioned is that the clutch would engage like a nervous 16 year old driving a manual for the first time.. ridiculously slow and unnecessarily wearing on the clutch disc.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, I decided to test the accumulator pressure and it looks like I'm going to need to replace it.

936584


Something interesting I've found is that when I run the accumulator pressure test, I get a fluid leak. I topped off the fluid before I ran the pressure test and it leaked from directly above the reservoir. After this, I ran through the bleeding procedures a couple times and then ran the accumulator test again. This time it leaked maybe a few drops instead of a puddle. To me this indicates that the reservoir is being back filled by the accumulator with enough fluid that it's probably leaking through the elastomer burp valve at the top of the reservoir.

No change in accumulator pressure after bleeding a couple more times, so I guess I'm going to replace it and hopefully should solve the issue with both the clutch valve teach in as well as the clutch slipping.

Anyone else solve their problem by replacing the pressure accumulator?
 

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That's a perfectly fine accumulator. Been there done that.

Fact you're overflowing the reservoir means you aren't checking fluid level with the system depressurized. Read the instructions for checking level again.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That's a perfectly fine accumulator. Been there done that.

Fact you're overflowing the reservoir means you aren't checking fluid level with the system depressurized. Read the instructions for checking level again.
Is there a step I'm missing in this process? Do I need to depressurize the system and do a fluid level check before attempting to vent the actuator block and slave cylinder?

Also, what would cause the test to indicate I have a bad pressure accumulator? What did you end up doing when this happened to you?
 

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Test says your accumulator pressure is low because it's low. If you had a bad accumulator then your system would not work, no test needed.

Now that you've run the bleed routine a few more times have you tried the adaptation process?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm running through the teach in for the clutch valve and this time nothing is happening. It starts the teach in, I hear a little bit of work from the pump and 10 minutes later I still see an hourglass spinning on the program. ISTA says the program should take up to 3 minutes.

I also ran a test on the clutch valve to check amperage and that test was ok at 1000 ma +/- 200 ma.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So, with hourglass still spinning, I decided to hit continue and this is the result:

936593


Should I try to run the teach in again so the program terminates on its own?

Also, when checking the clutch valve under function structure, checking the control unit as show below caused the same issue except I couldn't even begin the test module. I just got the spinning hourglass upon starting the test module.

936594
936595
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936597
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Wondering if your ista installation is damaged. Try inpa?
I'll have to see if I have INPA on my hard drive somewhere. I've only got ISTA installed. But I would think that since ISTA works in almost every other regard, it wouldn't work at all if it was a problem with the installation.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Nevermind I lied!! Not only do I have INPA on my hard drive, but it's also already installed ?. I've never run through any of these adaptations in INPA though, so if it isn't apparent, I may be asking you a few more questions lol.
 

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Try this:

 

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Discussion Starter #20
936599
936600


Got this message... "Mismatched versions. Malfunction is possible."

I'm sure if I try to run it and there is any issue, it should just simply not work at all. I would think it shouldn't hurt to try, but idk.
 
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