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Discussion Starter #1
I'm about to amass all the parts needed to do the clutch/flywheeel and associated wear items on my SMG. I wanted to make this post as a sual purpose, to make sure I have everything needed and to serve as an easy parts list for those that are doing the same. I'll have part numbers and links to where I'm buying the parts. I may not get all the parts the absolute cheapest, I am trying to keep my purchases to two places so I'm not racking up shipping bills from a bunch of vendors.

Currently I have about 82k on the clock. I'm not slipping or having any major issues. I'm replacing the clutch for 2 reasons. First because I want a smooth SMG, and I believe I have enough wear on the trans that an adaptation is most likely going to show that one of these items needs to be replaced. Second is I know there's not likely more than 10k miles left on the stock clutch, and I'd rather replace it on my own timeline than have it break and leave me stranded.

Here is my current parts list. Suggestions welcome.

Clutch (21212283089), flywheel (21212229955), pivot ball pin (21511223328), clutch release fork lever (21511223302), spring clip (2151757028), cryo treated guide bushing (23117564680) Total: $1720: BMW E60 M5 Clutch Kit & Flywheel (2006-2010) SMG Transmission Only : Bimmerzone.com
Slave Cylinder (23017838938) $250: 23017838938 - Clutch Slave Cylinder - ES#42112
SMG Pump Relay (61366901469) $18: 61366901469 - Relay - Black - ES#1963508
SMG Pump Relay 2 (12631742690) $13: 12631742690 - Relay - Salmon Red - ES#31912
PLCD Sensor (23017837428) $360: 23017837428 - Clutch Sensor - ES#42105
SMG Pump motor (23017841032) $290: 23017841032 - Hydraulic Pump Motor - ES#42124

Total parts: $2651 (local Indy quoted me $700 for labor, so ~$3,400 out the door)

Anything else I should do while I'm in there?
 

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Your list looks real good. When I did mine I also replaced the pilot bearing (11211720310) because I was looking at it with the fly wheel off and want to zero out all the moving parts. We don't hear much about rear main seals on these cars and mine was dry. For the pilot bearing it takes a blind hole puller to pop it out and I put the new bearing in the freezer for a few hours and it slides right in. The fly wheel will have new bolts with it but I also bought the 9 clutch to fly wheel bolts (07129905539).
You could get by with out the PLCD sensor if you wanted. Real easy to change later if needed with out taking too much a part. I think you're smart doing the slave cylinder, pump motor and relay. This will change your CHF-11 to fresh fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Your list looks real good. When I did mine I also replaced the pilot bearing (11211720310) because I was looking at it with the fly wheel off and want to zero out all the moving parts. We don't hear much about rear main seals on these cars and mine was dry. For the pilot bearing it takes a blind hole puller to pop it out and I put the new bearing in the freezer for a few hours and it slides right in. The fly wheel will have new bolts with it but I also bought the 9 clutch to fly wheel bolts (07129905539).
You could get by with out the PLCD sensor if you wanted. Real easy to change later if needed with out taking too much a part. I think you're smart doing the slave cylinder, pump motor and relay. This will change your CHF-11 to fresh fluid.
Thanks for the input, I'll grab one of those pilot bearings as well as the clutch to flywheel bolts, they don't add much to the price. I have a feeling with all the extra stuff I'm adding on my Indy is not going to honor the original quote for labor (since that was just clutch/flywheel). hiha
 

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The rear main seals don't have a huge history of failure as B767capt says, but it has happened to at least one member in recent memory. It's a cheap part too, if It were mine, I would do it while the transmission is out. Oil leaking into the bell housing would make me want to replace the clutch disc if it happened.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The rear main seals don't have a huge history of failure as B767capt says, but it has happened to at least one member in recent memory. It's a cheap part too, if It were mine, I would do it while the transmission is out. Oil leaking into the bell housing would make me want to replace the clutch disc if it happened.
How much additional labor is it to do the rear main seal? I might toss that in there if it isn't going to be a huge additional increase.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well here is how my replacement has gone at my Indy.

They tear the car apart and then realize they don't have the clutch alignment tool, said I should have provided it. I overnight a rental from Bimmerzone. Then yesterday they tell me that they don't have the clutch to flywheel bolts. I forgot to order them, but I didn't realize they were a *had to replace* item, I thought it was just extra insurance buying new bolts. And now as they're waiting on the bolts they're going to charge me some yet to be determined fee for tying up their lift with all this wait time. Fantastic.

So, if you are doing this with an Indy make sure you find out if they have a clutch alignment tool (and rent one if they don't have it) and make sure you get the clutch to flywheel bolts. I'll update the OP to reflect this.
 

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The rear main seals don't have a huge history of failure as B767capt says, but it has happened to at least one member in recent memory. It's a cheap part too, if It were mine, I would do it while the transmission is out. Oil leaking into the bell housing would make me want to replace the clutch disc if it happened.
Mine was leaking on my old engine with 60k on it, it was very very slight but enough to make the under tray damp over time.
It looks easy to change once the flywheel is out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sounds like you need to find a new shop.
I had two local shops I worked with, both doing good work but one gives you a loaner car. We'll now I'm down to 1 (no loaner). I got my car back this morning and so far everything feels ok. Definitely much smoother but still get occasional clunks when shifting. Going to wait for the clutch break-in before I say anything.

Now I just need to burn through 500 miles as quickly as possible!
 

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The rear main seals don't have a huge history of failure as B767capt says, but it has happened to at least one member in recent memory. It's a cheap part too, if It were mine, I would do it while the transmission is out. Oil leaking into the bell housing would make me want to replace the clutch disc if it happened.
would you happen to know the part number for the rear main seals, ive come a across a couple but dont want to buy the wrong one, thanks
 
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