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Hi
My name is Dirk and I drive my second M539. It´s a longer time ago, when I wrote in this community.

So last year, I drove with my car to my company, a ugly sound came out from the front and I decided immediately to turn the engine off.

Unfortunately, I have not enough time, so it took me a while, until I disassembled the engine... and that´s what I first saw. :eek:oohhh:



I fished a few things inside the oil pan, too. And that´s all junk.



Here you see the polluter, a little screw was broken. :Thumbdown:



The engine ran over 210 tousend kilometers. I decided to to take a look of the end bearings and it looks not so good, too.






I'll repair the engine, because I like my car, but it takes a while. Anyone have heard a engine damage from a small screw at the chain drive?

In the future I will post some more pictures. From the progress and some aditional tuning parts. :byee55amg

Don`t hesitate to ask me, about my project. Take care, guys.
 

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I'm very sorry to hear this mate.
Good on you for sticking with the M5 (after your old one was stolen) and now chosing to repair the engine. You're a true M5 enthusiast.

I hope to see you back on the road very soon.

PS: How did your old M5 get stolen if you don't mind me asking? Did they break into your home and take your keys first?
 

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It is not the bolt that is the reason for your damage...


I have exactly the same damage here on one of my customer M5s.

The failure was the plastic of your chain guide.

The chain guide plastic moved upwards and jammed against the aluminium carrier ,which caused the aluminium piece to snap off.

The upper aluminium piece fell down into the chain drive,like on yours.
This is why the U-shape guide carrier broke into two pieces and sheered the bolt off.

In my case it also bent some valves,as the small aluminium piece got stuck between crank sprocket and lower chain case.



It is more than likely that you have also a few bent valves,so it is better to remove the heads and check everything valve train related.


If you need any help or advice with your project(parts list,used parts,...),let me know and I send you a pm with my contact details.

Cheers,

Raikku


P.S.:Take the filter screen of your oil pump off,you will find more pieces in it.Would also disassemble and clean the oil pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I'm very sorry to hear this mate.
Good on you for sticking with the M5 (after your old one was stolen) and now chosing to repair the engine. You're a true M5 enthusiast.

I hope to see you back on the road very soon.

PS: How did your old M5 get stolen if you don't mind me asking? Did they break into your home and take your keys first?
It´s not so bad, I drive my 22 year old e36 rocket car with fabulous 105 horsepower at the crank. :3: But I come from A to B and that´s importend for my job. But it´s right, I´m happy when 400+ hp on the road again and the ground shakes when the engine starts. :tonquesmilie:

The thief broke in the garage, damage the frontdoor and lock, manipulate the EWS/DME, brake the steering wheel lock and drove away. I found small plastic parts at the ground. That´s all what I have from my old car. The keys go to the insurance. :Thumbdown:


It is not the bolt that is the reason for your damage...


If you need any help or advice with your project(parts list,used parts,...),let me know and I send you a pm with my contact details.

Cheers,

Raikku
That´s nice. But I have not enough postings to write a PM to you. Your welcome to write me you contacts for further questions. :byee55amg I have the engine completely apart and I found some plastic pieces in the oil pump. The engine block is in repair. He get some new OEM +0,2mm pistons, because I lost at the upper cylinder wall area 5/100mm material. But that´s not from the U-shape guide carrier broking. I think that´s from the mileage. The cylinder head gaskets were on the way to leak, but I can´t see a bent valve. So I have a little bit luck. yawnnnn
Is there possibly reinforced carriers on the after-market?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi guys.
The first year past away and I'm waiting for more tuning and OEM parts to fit the engine together. Anyone interessted for more details in the future?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Also, the pictures are no longer showing. Could you repost them?
Hmm.... it takes a little bit longer to fix this. :dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi guys.
Unfortunately, all the images are deleted from imageshack. So I upload them on a other hosting service with new pictures of rebuilding the engine. I promise.
 
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Imageshack screwed me as well. If you need to repair your top post, please re-post it, and flag a moderator with the Report Post feature (red triangle icon).
 

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Ive always used imageshack because for years it was the only host that provided unrestricted access to free online photo hosting... every DIY that didnt use imageshack the pictures went down within a year. Now its unfortunate to see imageshack befalling the same fate...

Tinypic is still free, but only allows a single image to be uploaded at a time
 

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O/T:
Unfortunately, we've even seen threads lost here (see DIY sticky). None of these databases have the permanence of paper. They're only as reliable as the weakest of: admins, servers, backups, and storage media. That doesn't bode well for our pictures, or for future historians and researchers.

Digital archival needs to be DIY, too. Don't rely solely on any free provider. But using them allows one to centrally modify/delete, without restriction.
 

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So the moral of the initial story is to replace your chain guide plastic if you hit a certain amount of miles to prevent something like this from happening?
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Hi guys :byee55amg

Old pictures are fixed and here some newer pictures from the crank.

I decided to fine heaving of the crankshaft and drive train vibration damper. I was suprised that some area left a little bit heavy metal and some area get some of them. (see pictures)
It was not a mistage to do this on this step by rebuilding the engine.









So the moral of the initial story is to replace your chain guide plastic if you hit a certain amount of miles to prevent something like this from happening?
Yes, of course! And....

- use high quality motoroil
- make your motoroil change earlier than the OEM giving statements.
 

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I decided to fine heaving of the crankshaft and drive train vibration damper. I was suprised that some area left a little bit heavy metal and some area get some of them. (see pictures)
It was not a mistage to do this on this step by rebuilding the engine.
The translation didn't work so well there. Are you saying you had the crankshaft balanced and the shop drilled the small hole in the damper and removed that material from the crank?

Was that disk of tungsten heavy metal in the original crank or was it added by the balancing shop?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The technician of the shop said he put other heavy metal in the oem crank holes and drilled a little hole because the crank was from the factory not so good balanced. He drilled one little hole in the damper.
 

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I found some other photos that showed that BMW did originally use tungsten inserts to balance these cranks. It's quite controversial as to how balanced cranks have to be.
 
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