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I discovered on my M5 that it’s s38b36‘s ignition timing is slow.
What would cause this?:1zhelp:
The reason i began my search is that the car has a hesitation starting from 5500 – 6800 rpm @ WOT.
What i checked/replaced with no success was:
1. I took the car to be checked on a diagnostic machine. They found nothing wrong.
2. Changed the plugs
3. Changed the HT leads
4. Changed the distributor cap/rotor
5. Changed the coil
6. Swopped the ECU with another car that was running correctly
7. Swopped the TPS with another car that was running correctly
8. Serviced/checked injectors
9. Replaced the fuel pressure regulator
10. Previous owner replaced the MAF 2 months before i purchased the car in 2009/feb.
11. Drove around with a fuel pressure gauge and found the pressure to be @ 3.5bar @WOT all the time
12. True TDC with a degree wheel and a dial gauge and found that the marks on the damper were spot on.
13. Then i removed the damper and the flange to check the keyway which i discussed in this tread. http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e34-m5-discussion/168408-b36-timing-chain-luck.html . Nothing was wrong.
After much, i discovered that the ignition timing is on 0 degrees when idling. Without authentication someone mentioned it must be 10 deg.
As an experiment i slotted the 8 holes on the damper + the 1small one on the dell pin by 6 deg (which equates to 1 tooth on the damper).
Before i slotted the damper’s holes the car idled on 0 deg and now obliviously it is on 6 deg.
I can report that the car pulls much stronger and it doesn’t hesitate anymore, nor does it detonate, but i don’t like this and would still like to know what causes it. Would it cause any damage if i keep on driving it like this(with the “false 6 deg” timing):1zhelp:.
Any ideas?
BTW – everything on the car’s fuel management is std. incl. the exhaust.
Thanks in advance.
Regards, Chris
What would cause this?:1zhelp:
The reason i began my search is that the car has a hesitation starting from 5500 – 6800 rpm @ WOT.
What i checked/replaced with no success was:
1. I took the car to be checked on a diagnostic machine. They found nothing wrong.
2. Changed the plugs
3. Changed the HT leads
4. Changed the distributor cap/rotor
5. Changed the coil
6. Swopped the ECU with another car that was running correctly
7. Swopped the TPS with another car that was running correctly
8. Serviced/checked injectors
9. Replaced the fuel pressure regulator
10. Previous owner replaced the MAF 2 months before i purchased the car in 2009/feb.
11. Drove around with a fuel pressure gauge and found the pressure to be @ 3.5bar @WOT all the time
12. True TDC with a degree wheel and a dial gauge and found that the marks on the damper were spot on.
13. Then i removed the damper and the flange to check the keyway which i discussed in this tread. http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e34-m5-discussion/168408-b36-timing-chain-luck.html . Nothing was wrong.
After much, i discovered that the ignition timing is on 0 degrees when idling. Without authentication someone mentioned it must be 10 deg.
As an experiment i slotted the 8 holes on the damper + the 1small one on the dell pin by 6 deg (which equates to 1 tooth on the damper).
Before i slotted the damper’s holes the car idled on 0 deg and now obliviously it is on 6 deg.
I can report that the car pulls much stronger and it doesn’t hesitate anymore, nor does it detonate, but i don’t like this and would still like to know what causes it. Would it cause any damage if i keep on driving it like this(with the “false 6 deg” timing):1zhelp:.
Any ideas?
BTW – everything on the car’s fuel management is std. incl. the exhaust.
Thanks in advance.
Regards, Chris