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Discussion Starter #1
So, I've got the oil pan off for bearings. Did any of you that did your own bearings clean the oil pan up while you had it out or did you just clean up the mating surface and slap it back together?

936109
 

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I bought a replacement pan with the second oil drain plug (as mine only had the single plug) and had it ultrasonically cleaned before it was put on, although I didn't do my own bearings (it was done at Redish motorsports)
 

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I cleaned mine while it was out. I didn’t want any of the sludge circulating in the engine. I also added a bung for a second drain, so I wanted to make sure no shavings got into the system.
 

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Looks like a good candidate for a solvent bath!
 

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I cleaned mine, IMO, this is another reason to DIY this job. The casting surface on the holds the dirt and sludge well, that is just going to dirty up all your subsequent "fresh oil" changes with the old dirt that never made it into the filter.

The easiest way is to buy a gallon of kerosene and a spray bottle. You can get kerosene anywhere like Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart, since it is used for heaters. Put it in a spray bottle (and label it so you or someone else in your family doesn't think it is water). Put the spray bottle on stream mode and spray the inside, at an angle and let the runoff flow in to your used oil drain container. You can also use a cheap paint brush to help clean out the dirty areas, but the kero will do wonders.

You don't have to remove the side sumps if you don't want to, I did since my gaskets were leaking anyways. You may also consider removing the oil level indicator before hand and replacing that gasket too. It also allows for easier draining and the dirt may otherwise accumulate around that gasket area.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
+1 to cleaning.

Assuming you take off the aux pumps you'll need new orings.
That's one of the parts I'm waiting on. I actually ordered two to begin with, but ended up using one on the transmission pump and forgot to order another.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
@gmtegear I appreciate the input. I hadn't thought about using kerosene.. which is perfect because I've got a 5 gallon container of it sitting in the garage.

Extra gasket is on the way from BMW Northwest and I've also got a new oil level indicator and gasket I'll be installing.
 

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What PN did you get for the oil level sensor? The supersession in realoem is wrong. Been there done that.

Small stuff like orings and bolts are what I use my local dealer for. Don't mind paying an extra buck for getting parts overnight.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What PN did you get for the oil level sensor? The supersession in realoem is wrong. Been there done that.

Small stuff like orings and bolts are what I use my local dealer for. Don't mind paying an extra buck for getting parts overnight.
Here's the part:

936123


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@gmtegear I appreciate the input. I hadn't thought about using kerosene.. which is perfect because I've got a 5 gallon container of it sitting in the garage.
Yes, I buy kero in the 2.5 gal containers. BMW=lots of oil leaks everywhere. Maybe I should spring for a heater too... Well judging by how immaculately clean your subframe was and your mods to ease the removal, I'm thinking you will be dropping the pan every other year to clean the pan of the sludge! It seems like the VANOS solenoids really like clean oil and since the oil is picked up straight from the sump then to the vanos oil pump. If you are waiting on parts, you might also want to flush the oil out of the oil cooler since that really doesn't get drained when changing oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well judging by how immaculately clean your subframe was and your mods to ease the removal, I'm thinking you will be dropping the pan every other year to clean the pan of the sludge!
Yeah my subframe was actually pretty filthy on the passenger side from multiple leaks over the past few years, and I ended up degreasing it pretty heavily using a scrub brush and then dawn soap to remove the solvents and then I pressure washed everything.

I'm curious if I'll be able to remove the pan with the lines still connected to the power steering rack when all this is done. I know the E9x guys can do this with the S65. If that's the case, then maybe I will drop the the pan once a year 😂.
 

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Yes, I buy kero in the 2.5 gal containers. BMW=lots of oil leaks everywhere. Maybe I should spring for a heater too... Well judging by how immaculately clean your subframe was and your mods to ease the removal, I'm thinking you will be dropping the pan every other year to clean the pan of the sludge! It seems like the VANOS solenoids really like clean oil and since the oil is picked up straight from the sump then to the vanos oil pump. If you are waiting on parts, you might also want to flush the oil out of the oil cooler since that really doesn't get drained when changing oil.
I drain my oil all day with front end jacked up so that oil cooler is at a higher elevation than drain, i then level car out and continue to let drain overnight.

I fill 2 5-quart jugs with drained oil, thus assume i am getting a good portion of cooler and lines drained as well
 

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If you don't also add a second drain plug in the front of the pan (Under the oil pump) your missing a great opportunity to do this. This will ensure you drain almost 100% of your oil at future changes. Its easy to do, there is a bung available on amazon and any competent machine shop can do it. I recently added one to mine and the total cost was less than $70.
 
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