Brake parts:
- Rear control arms and bushings haven't been replaced and are likely worn (shaking is from front of car)
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I just recently rebuilt my front brake calipers due to an issue I was having with one. The inside (piston side) pad stuck to the rotor wearing it's inner face and the pad down to bare metal, while the rest of the brakes and the other side of the rotor was wearing identically to the passenger side front brakes which had no wear issues.
I decided to do a full caliper rebuild on both front calipers to alleviate the issue and have fresh calipers.
I installed new caliper pistons, o-rings, guide pins, and bushings. I made sure to clean the cylinder extensively before inserting the new piston and only lubed it with brake fluid. The pistons on both sides went in easy though didn't seem to push in as far as they should, they got as far as just before flush with the caliper compared with the OEM untouched caliper. We we're able to get it assembled but the pads were a tight fit and we figured we made a mistake bleeding the brakes (we did). Took the car for a drive and pedal fell to the floor and was slow coming back up. Only braking would occur 3/4 inch from the ground, and oddly it would often actuate ABS with little braking force when the pedal is pressed as far to the ground as possible. Definitely got air in the system.
The next day I bled the 2 front brakes and the braking now seems perfect and the car's drivable; pedal is firm and modulation is smooth and accurate, much better than it was before. I'm planning on doing a full ABS DIS flush when I install rear brakes, parking brake shoes, and new lines, this was enough to expel the air we accidentally got in the front lines.
However I've been noticing shaking anytime I hit the brakes above 40mph. Sometimes the shaking is a bit violent but eases away quickly into a vibration. Applying more pressure seems to help significantly in reducing shaking when hitting the brakes above 40mph, though I haven't tried that at speeds higher than 70mph and the car still slows down quick! Shaking wasn't totally eliminated though, just greatly reduced. (I torque my wheels carefully to avoid rotor warpage, I also cleaned the rotor's contact areas with the hub and wheels to ensure and perfectly even fitment.)
The pads have only been bedding to the rotor for about 20 miles, the first 5 miles being before they were properly bled with air in front lines which could have caused uneven distribution of pad material on the rotor, maybe this could be causing the shaking while braking? Could this go away after bedding in the brakes properly over more like 500 miles?
I'm not certain what could be causing this. The sometimes violent shake that eases away quickly just at the beginning of braking above at highway speed is concerning but is also rare and seems to depend on speed though I've yet to drive it enough to be sure.
Though I noticed nothing like this at all before the brake work, I'm considering my front straight control arms, I was planning Turner upgraded mononball straight control arms at some point and wasn't totally sold on them yet. I just don't want to throw money at that and still be left with this issue when the arms seemed to cause no noticeable issues before the brake work. And the jump from no shaking to this amount of front end shaking after just brake work is concerning to say the least!
Does anyone have any ideas? I'd appreciate your help!
- ECS Slotted Rotors
- Stoptech Street pads
- New brake pistons
- New guide pins and bushings
- New piston O-rings
- New Thrust arms
- New Center steering linkage
- New Idler arm and bushing
- New Tie rods
- Rear control arms and bushings haven't been replaced and are likely worn (shaking is from front of car)
__
I just recently rebuilt my front brake calipers due to an issue I was having with one. The inside (piston side) pad stuck to the rotor wearing it's inner face and the pad down to bare metal, while the rest of the brakes and the other side of the rotor was wearing identically to the passenger side front brakes which had no wear issues.
I decided to do a full caliper rebuild on both front calipers to alleviate the issue and have fresh calipers.
I installed new caliper pistons, o-rings, guide pins, and bushings. I made sure to clean the cylinder extensively before inserting the new piston and only lubed it with brake fluid. The pistons on both sides went in easy though didn't seem to push in as far as they should, they got as far as just before flush with the caliper compared with the OEM untouched caliper. We we're able to get it assembled but the pads were a tight fit and we figured we made a mistake bleeding the brakes (we did). Took the car for a drive and pedal fell to the floor and was slow coming back up. Only braking would occur 3/4 inch from the ground, and oddly it would often actuate ABS with little braking force when the pedal is pressed as far to the ground as possible. Definitely got air in the system.
The next day I bled the 2 front brakes and the braking now seems perfect and the car's drivable; pedal is firm and modulation is smooth and accurate, much better than it was before. I'm planning on doing a full ABS DIS flush when I install rear brakes, parking brake shoes, and new lines, this was enough to expel the air we accidentally got in the front lines.
However I've been noticing shaking anytime I hit the brakes above 40mph. Sometimes the shaking is a bit violent but eases away quickly into a vibration. Applying more pressure seems to help significantly in reducing shaking when hitting the brakes above 40mph, though I haven't tried that at speeds higher than 70mph and the car still slows down quick! Shaking wasn't totally eliminated though, just greatly reduced. (I torque my wheels carefully to avoid rotor warpage, I also cleaned the rotor's contact areas with the hub and wheels to ensure and perfectly even fitment.)
The pads have only been bedding to the rotor for about 20 miles, the first 5 miles being before they were properly bled with air in front lines which could have caused uneven distribution of pad material on the rotor, maybe this could be causing the shaking while braking? Could this go away after bedding in the brakes properly over more like 500 miles?
I'm not certain what could be causing this. The sometimes violent shake that eases away quickly just at the beginning of braking above at highway speed is concerning but is also rare and seems to depend on speed though I've yet to drive it enough to be sure.
Though I noticed nothing like this at all before the brake work, I'm considering my front straight control arms, I was planning Turner upgraded mononball straight control arms at some point and wasn't totally sold on them yet. I just don't want to throw money at that and still be left with this issue when the arms seemed to cause no noticeable issues before the brake work. And the jump from no shaking to this amount of front end shaking after just brake work is concerning to say the least!
Does anyone have any ideas? I'd appreciate your help!