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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

I participated in the Beast Power group buy (thanks Daniel), and just had my Tubi's installed yesterday. All was well until this morning, when the Service Engine Soon light light up on my dash.

I know this has been a problem in the past with some of the Tubi installs, and have read past posts. I'm not exactly sure where I fall in the mix. Here's what I can tell you.

The muffler was installed by a reputable muffler shop, but not a BMW specialist (problem?). I had the muffler welded. The guy assured me that he did a complete weld first, and then secured the clamps supplied on the muffler. I don't think there should or could be an exhaust leak.

Is there anything else I should know about before accusing the guy of a bad weld?

Thanks for the help,

Brian
 

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Chances are there is an exhaust leak. A lot of times leaking occurs when welding if a little spot is missed while welding it up. I would put it back on a lift and see if you can feel or hear any leaking exhuasts.
 

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from an electronics point of view, i wonder if the act of welding can damage the o2 sensors? It just seems so hit and miss with people installing exhausts and getting ses lights (usually for catalyst efficiency, right?).
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #4
TCM said:
Chances are there is an exhaust leak. A lot of times leaking occurs when welding if a little spot is missed while welding it up. I would put it back on a lift and see if you can feel or hear any leaking exhuasts.
TC, took the car back in to the shop, and the tech found a leak.

But, my SES light is still on. Does this need to be reset, or should it have gone out when the leak was sealed?

Thanks again,

Brian
 

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It needs to be reset. You will need a Peake tool unless you want to take it to the dealer, who will probably charge you for his trouble. My suggestion is order a Peake tool and live with the light until it arrives in the mail. It's a good investment anyway. :2:
 

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BrianS said:
TC, took the car back in to the shop, and the tech found a leak.

But, my SES light is still on. Does this need to be reset, or should it have gone out when the leak was sealed?

Thanks again,

Brian
It will reset itself, i can't remember exactly, but i did read in the bentley manual that after 20 or 40 'drive cycles' if the fault is not detected, the ses light will extinguish. A drive cycle is when you start cold, and get temps (coolant, i think) up to at least 160F.
Mike
 

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when I did mine, there were exhuast leaks, and unless the shop used MIG/TIG on that stainless, it will leak. Also, they should have removed your 02 sensors during welding procedures. My SES started acting up when I changed the exhaust, and after replacing the post-cat 02s & MAF, it FINALLY went away. Read then clear the codes young Jedi.
 

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FWIW, my supersprint system is clamped in, and i've never had an SES light (related to the exhaust anyway). I did have an exhaust leak not too long ago, rectified with a little tightening of the clamps.
Mike
 

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I also just installed my Tubi. No welding required for this install, but I had a ton of vibration from the exhaust rubbing against the plate. After some simple grinding of the plate, no more vibrations and just sweet music to all of those behind me. Also, no SES light as of yet.
Surely, there has to be someone in your area Brian with a Peake tool.
TripleD
 

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This is mostly anecdotal and opinion, but I'll chime in anyway: the center resonator section (x-pipe equivalent) connection right behind the cats is critical for avoiding the SES light. Drop the exhaust, remove the O2 sensors and carefully TIG weld this connection -- TIGing is preferred over MIG (they are not the same). Clamps can be used for attaching the dual exhaust cans rather than welding; will allow for adjustment if needed (though I haven't needed; the tips have not budged after being initially aligned and set). Anyway, this is what I had done and it worked for me :) PS, my guy had no issues with clearance near the plate.
 

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What is the "plate"...I have some low-rpm buzzing and vibration from my Tubi's. I'm thinking that there must be some contact somewhere. The vibration/buzzing is from the cupholder area but only lasts between 1000-2000 rpms.
 

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What is the "plate"...I have some low-rpm buzzing and vibration from my Tubi's.
There is a cross brace plate that supports the exhaust system just aft of the cats. On some Tubis (not sure if it's car to car variation or Tubi to Tubi variation), the mounting bracket on the Tubis sits too far forward, forcing you to mount the fatter portion of the Tubis where it comes very close to or touches this bracket. When it does, it transmits vibrations into the car. The solution is to grind down the high spots on the brace or do what I did and take out the brace and squish down the forward "ridge" on it using a hydraulic press. Either way you're just looking for just a bit of clearance. I'd do this first before trying to mess with the Tubis. It's not easy to properly weld stainless steel so I don't recommend moving the brackets on the Tubis in the first instance. I'm not sure why this is a problem on some, but it is and was on mine. hmmm

And Mike is right about the SES resetting itself eventually. I had a very small leak that I fixed by tightening the clamps and after what seemed like a zillion engine on/off cycles the light did go away (this was before I got my Peake tool).
 

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I log a journal of SES lights. Before I bought a Peake Tool, I had dozens of SES lights. My SES woes began after an x-pipe install, which was quickly following by a tubi, all which just happened to (approximately) coincide with intake mods. The SES would appear, but always extinguish within a day or two, only the reappear again.

The SES problems are solved. What I've learned is that the M5 is incredibly sensitive to mods on the INTAKE side. I tried various intake setups - AS, true ram-air, MAF screen removal. The car just won't tolerate it. Perhaps with two MAFs, the car can tell if the two sides are not flowing absolutely identical. It's not easy with a home-made system to get the two sides to flow exactly alike. This could be why commercial systems (Dinan or AA) don't have as many SES problems.

Anyway, everyone was pointing fingers at tubi, even the $tdealer. In this case it wasn't the tubi at all.

:byebye:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Okay,

I just took it to my BMW mechanic to get the SES light turned off. That's taken care of.

I want to let all of those who mention about vibration that I had it too. I wasn't sure if that was how these mufflers sounded, or if I had a problem. Especially under load. Since my mechanic is very friendly, we put it on the lift and went throught the whole exhaust system together.

The Tubi's were pretty close to the heat shield in some spaces, and there was a mark on the cross brace where the muffler (passenger side) was coming in contact with the brace (low rpm's under load). That was the noise that I though the Tubis made. I kind of knocking or resonating.

We took the cross brace out and pounded out the high spot, and pressed the heat shield away where it was close.

Now there is no resonating, vibration, or anything. Just a sweet sound. Any of you who have any vibration problems, check the heat shield and cross brace.

That's all I have, and am pretty happy/relieved.

Brian
 

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When I had my Tubi installed I made sure that they had clearance on the cross brace. After a day or two of settling the vibrations came in so I had to go back and they tweaked the member so that it didn't rub anymore. It is a common occurence..
 

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BTW, I talked today to a guy who installs lots of Tubis, mainly on Ferraris. When I told him about some of the installation issues some of us were having, he simply shrugged his shoulders and said that it's because we're looking at hand-made Italian exhausts. The weld quality, he explained, is impeccable, but there are variations batch to batch and sometimes they take more install time and tweaking than you might expect for a mass produced item. Ciao. :flag:
 

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Hi:

For what is is worth, every time a welder touches my car the battery ground is diconnected. Just being prudent.
 

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I just had the same thing. My tubi was installed few weeks ago, but it didn't came back until now since I had other work done to the car. Just drove home today and SES was on the minute I had the key in the ignition.

I have a Peake read/reset tool and proceeded to read the fault. It came back with table 18, fault 7F, which the manual says "DM-TL module"

I reset it and will know soon whether it will come back. Anyone know what this fault is? There are several fault code related to DM-TL, so I don't know specifically what this one is referring to. Can't find docs on-line either.

thanks.
 
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