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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi, I'm new to the board and new to BMW's. I'm a long time car enthusiast though. This thread will be devoted to the restoration, maintenance, and improvement of my April 2000 Carbon Black M5 with 122k miles.

I bought it about 3 weeks ago. It seems to be in really good shape, but it was a Cali/Arizona/Utah car, so the caramel interior is cracked pretty bad.

The previous owner just installed a new clutch and new brakes and supposedly new thrust arm bushings.

But, it still has a 55 mph shake, so I've decided to just replace all the bushings.

Here's what I've done so far:

changed transmission fluid with royal purple.
black grille inserts.

here's the parts I have acquired to put in:

  • A full black sport m5 interior with 44k miles.
  • Used black carpet
  • A full control arm/bushing/steering kit, front and rear, OEM or OEM manufacturer
  • 2 Front wheel bearing units. I may add rears to this when I get to the rear.
  • Euro center console/arm rest
  • Aluminum trim to replace my wood trim (from the 44k mile car)
  • 16:9 screen
  • BM53 radio
  • Auxiliary audio cable
I'll probably start with the interior in the next couple weeks.

Third gear is a little difficult to get into sometimes. I think its a linkage issue and not a sychro issue. The previous owner recently put in a Z3M shifter, but that obviously didn't fix it. Any ideas?

Also, I've searched and am confused. Can I swap the 16:9 in place by itself and expect it to work, or do I need the upgraded radio and or Nav?

Here's the only pic I have so far.
 

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I think the z3 shifter it causing the issues getting into third and not helping whatever issue as it is significantly shorter than what was there oem, I would look into replacing it with a e60 or oem e39 shifter lever and see if that helps. Also I'm pretty sure the 16:9 nav screen will work with whatever Mk computer you have but the MkIV is a significant upgrade.
 

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For your vibration problem be sure to look at the tie rod ends and center drag link. I thought mine were fine until I replaced upper and lower control arms and when everything was loose, the wear in the tie rod ends became apparent. 90% of my vibration is gone but I now know I need to do the steering components to get the rest of it. Looks like you have the parts so you should be good to go. Be sure to have the front end properly loaded when torquing all the suspension components or you'll be back in there shortly.
 

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Congrats about your M5. We're more or less in the same boat as I picked one up a few weeks back with 128k miles and what feels to be the suspension that came with it in 2001.

I also get front end vibrations on light braking... and my rear end is pretty unstable when I hit bumps or uneven surfaces in the road. My questions is where do you plan to source your suspension components? I would hope there would be some nice discounts in buying huge kits with everything bundled together.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for your input guys. I'll definitely look into it.

I bought my suspension parts from FCP Euro on kind of an impulse. Hopefully I didn't pay way too much. It was $1800 for the suspension arms, bushings, steering parts and front wheel bearings.

I already have all those parts listed, laying in my garage ready to go. Actually I'm still unwrapping my interior. The guy really used a lot of shrink wrap and bubble wrap! I've filled three 45 gallon trash bags already.
 

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Any plans to replace the struts/shocks?

My car bobs up and down like a boat so I'm sure mine are shot. Thinking about going with Bilsteins.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah I'll probably wait a few months to do the suspension and then I'll be able to afford to do the shocks at the same time. It just makes sense to do it while I'm in there.

My shocks seem ok though so I don't know.

I wouldn't mind a stiffer ride but I don't want any rattles, harshness, etc. I'm not sure what shocks I'd buy.
 

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Yeah I'll probably wait a few months to do the suspension and then I'll be able to afford to do the shocks at the same time. It just makes sense to do it while I'm in there.

My shocks seem ok though so I don't know.

I wouldn't mind a stiffer ride but I don't want any rattles, harshness, etc. I'm not sure what shocks I'd buy.

Wide screen works plug n' play with any of the Nav computers including MKII. Huge upgrade in interior looks, the 4:3 screen looks ridiculous in comparison.

As for shocks for those of us looking for stock-ish, good replacement shocks we've been running Koni Yellows on stock springs. Great setup and reasonably priced.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ImageUploadedByAG Free1401541869.223316.jpg . Just did the 16:9 upgrade using e39 source video.

You have to disconnect the battery to make it work. Otherwise you'll get scrolling video.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ImageUploadedByAG Free1401541955.085658.jpg ImageUploadedByAG Free1401541973.273330.jpg
Here's what the seats look like. It's amazing that this car can be so nice and the leather worn out that much. It's got to be the hot dry western climate that it grew up in.
 

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M3Fan, where's a good place to get the Koni's?
I believe bavauto is having koni shocks on sale. 25% off on shocks.

Front - 206.96 each
Rear - 143.96 each
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Why? I wouldn't be the first, not even close.

Depending on which literature you look at, this weight was later recommended by BMW in these engines.

I'm a automotive engineer (with a M.E. degree) and deal with car manufacturers testing on a almost daily basis (not engines though). I have a pretty good idea of why they spec'd the oil that they did--I won't be putting my car through any endurance tests or running at high rpm. Not even close.

If I was going to push the car, it would be a different story. The closest thing to that will be passing a Buick that's doing 45 in a 55 zone.

But if I get significantly increased consumption or VANOS rattle I may quickly change my mind.

The car has the "correct" TWS in it now.
 

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My car actually stopped consuming oil after i switched to Castrol 10w-60, before that i used another brand with the same viscosity and it drank about 1L oil per 1000km, hard driving. Weird but you cant argue with facts :) Im just mentioning this IF your car starts to burn alot of oil.
*Note this was on my car and i don't wanna make this an oil thread :)

Dang those leather seats looks like they never got any TLC :)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I've got no noticeable consumption or rattle right now so I consider myself lucky. Maybe I shouldn't push my luck. I knew those would be the two things that might happen. I might just use the 5w30 for my 4runner and buy TWS for my car.

Yeah it really is amazing how nice the car is compared to the seats. Like I said, it lived out west (Arizona, Utah, California according to carfax) and the dry air and heat must have really dried out the leather. The dash is perfect though.
 
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