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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Window


Long story short, I need the space in my garage for another GT3 race car so I have to sell this car. You can refer to this link for the detailed build story:


Some key modifications to the car:

  • BMW F8X carbon ceramic brake kit ($11000)
  • BBS 19" FI-R satin wheel set with CUP2 tires ($10000). This set has about 500 miles on it, within this 500 miles, 100 miles were on track.
  • Recaro carbon fibre pole position seats ($4500)
  • MCS 2 way adjustable damper with camber plate ($3000)
  • Carbon fibre hood, trunk lid, steering wheel and other carbon trims ($3000)
  • Voltphreaks lithium battery ($1000)
  • Complete stripped down to remove sound deadening, air bags, stereos and back seat. Weld in half cage ($9000)
  • Meisterschaft stainless steel remote valve control exhaust (from previous owner)

The current dry weight is 3470 lbs, about 34000 miles on the ODO. This car is hell fast...My casual lap time in this car at Portland International Raceway on Cup2 tire is 1:26. I only took it on track once, current setup is not very aggressive since it was originally setup for street drive. I think some serious track alignment, it will make its way to 1:24 without any problem. Some data for reference: Porsche 991 generation 911 GT3RS with CUP2 tire lap time is 1:21. My McLaren 570S SRO GT4 race car's qualifying time is 1:18 on full slick tires.

Something to mention, I think the car is still have OE rod bearing and no revision on SMG as well, I got the car at 30000 miles was planning to do the rod bearing and DCT conversion but never had the time. I would suggest to do rod bearing after you got it.

Also to mention the iDrive system control has been disconnected but the screen is still there, you can either delete the screen completely or reconnect the iDrive control if you still want to use it. You will need to pull the dash out to reconnect, that's quite a lot of work. It also have the following warnings lights which I am too lazy to code out: damper, seatbelt, airbag, tire pressure, adaptive headlight. No check engine light for sure.


Price is $34000 with BBS FI-R wheel set. Pick up welcomed, I am in Portland Oregon. Will keep this post open for 3 month, if no sell I will part the car out.
 

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Wow that would be a solid price for a stock 30k mile one, let alone this. Would be all over this if i had the garage space.

Pics of the new gt3?

On a side note, I would be very concerned about oil starvation if you're running on slicks or cups, oil pan baffles can only do so much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Wow that would be a solid price for a stock 30k mile one, let alone this. Would be all over this if i had the garage space.

Pics of the new gt3?

On a side note, I would be very concerned about oil starvation if you're running on slicks or cups, oil pan baffles can only do so much.
I bought a German racing team's retired Huracan GT3 EVO and plan to race this car, it is currently being loaded on a ship to U.S now, should be here by March to April.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
More pictures here, and some modification I totally forgot to mention:

  • The front axle have all new control arms with Dinan or Tuner monoball bushing
  • I replaced front sway bar with another model from BMW but slightly bigger diameter
  • H&R rear sway bar
  • Dinan carbon fiber front tower strut support arm
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View attachment 958257

Long story short, I need the space in my garage for another GT3 race car so I have to sell this car. You can refer to this link for the detailed build story:


Some key modifications to the car:

  • BMW F8X carbon ceramic brake kit ($11000)
  • BMW 19" 763M gold wheel set with PS4S tires ($6000). This set has less than 200 miles on it.
  • BBS
    19" FI-R satin wheel set with CUP2 tires ($10000). This set has about 500 miles on it, within this 500 miles, 100 miles were on track.
  • Recaro carbon fibre pole position seats ($4500)
  • MCS 2 way adjustable damper with camber plate ($3000)
  • Carbon fibre hood, trunk lid, steering wheel and other carbon trims ($3000)
  • Voltphreaks lithium battery ($1000)
  • Complete stripped down to remove sound deadening, air bags, stereos and back seat. Weld in half cage ($9000)
  • Meisterschaft stainless steel remote valve control exhaust (from previous owner)

The current dry weight is 3470 lbs, 31000 miles 34158 miles on the ODO. This car is hell fast...My casual lap time in this car at Portland International Raceway on Cup2 tire is 1:26. I only took it on track once, current setup is not very aggressive since it was originally setup for street drive. I think some serious track alignment, it will make its way to 1:24 without any problem. Some data for reference: Porsche 991 generation 911 GT3RS with CUP2 tire lap time is 1:21. My McLaren 570S SRO GT4 race car's qualifying time is 1:18 on full slick tires.

Something to mention, I think the car is still have OE rod bearing and no revision on SMG as well, I got the car at 30000 miles was planning to do the rod bearing and DCT conversion but never had the time. I would suggest to do rod bearing after you got it.

Also to mention the iDrive system control has been disconnected but the screen is still there, you can either delete the screen completely or reconnect the iDrive control if you still want to use it. You will need to pull the dash out to reconnect, that's quite a lot of work. It also have the following warnings lights which I am too lazy to code out: damper, seatbelt, airbag, tire pressure, adaptive headlight. No check engine light for sure.


Price is $30000 with 763M wheel set or $34000 with BBS FI-R wheel set. Pick up welcomed, I am in Portland Oregon. Will keep this post open for 3 month, if no sell I will part the car out.
A very nice build!
A few questions for you.
Why did you disconnect the iDrive system?
Did you have to pull the dash out to disconnect?
Are those warning lights simple code-out away or little more involved to fix?
Those wheels don't offer sizes with a desired offset you were looking for?
I believe it's best not to use spacers if it's possible.
Does it have an aftermarket catless header? If so, what brand?
All the stock parts are included?
Anything else needs work or adjustment at all?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The plan was to get rid of the iDrive completely but the shop was suppose to do carbon delete panel was closed due to covid. I waited for 3 months then decided to put it back together for now as I dont want the car to sit in the garage then never get back to keep working on it. You do need to pull the entire dash and center console to reconnect.

The warning you will get will be damper, seatbelt, airbag, tire pressure and adaptive headlight. You need to code out those using special cable because all those things except for OE seat belt have been removed.

Both set of wheels require spacer, I use H&R and they are at different sized.

The powertrain is completely stock, my plan was to swap DCT, that's the time I planned to do rod bearing and the catless header. I do have a custom made Infinity design catless equal length header but they are still in box, I can give it to next owner for free, they cost more than $3000. I have included the recceipt and here is what it looks like:

I do have most of the stock parts but considering the level of work that has been done on the car, if you are looking to put stock parts back then you are looking at the wrong car.

For the next owner, I suggest to do a manual or DCT swap, along with rod bearing and you can put the header on. Maybe a delete panel for the iDrive then that's all done.




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The plan was to get rid of the iDrive completely but the shop was suppose to do carbon delete panel was closed due to covid. I waited for 3 months then decided to put it back together for now as I dont want the car to sit in the garage then never get back to keep working on it. You do need to pull the entire dash and center console to reconnect.

The warning you will get will be damper, seatbelt, airbag, tire pressure and adaptive headlight. You need to code out those using special cable because all those things except for OE seat belt have been removed.

Both set of wheels require spacer, I use H&R and they are at different sized.

The powertrain is completely stock, my plan was to swap DCT, that's the time I planned to do rod bearing and the catless header. I do have a custom made Infinity design catless equal length header but they are still in box, I can give it to next owner for free, they cost more than $3000. I have included the recceipt and here is what it looks like:

I do have most of the stock parts but considering the level of work that has been done on the car, if you are looking to put stock parts back then you are looking at the wrong car.

For the next owner, I suggest to do a manual or DCT swap, along with rod bearing and you can put the header on. Maybe a delete panel for the iDrive then that's all done.




View attachment 958302
Thanks for the reply!

So the car needs no other work/adjustment besides the warning lights and iDrive?
It's a fully functional vehicle? Everything works besides the iDrive?


Do you have a carfax report you can share?
 

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GLWS! This would be a fun street/HPDE car for sure.

My opinion -- suspension selection speaks volumes about the owner (y)

Swap the transmission and address the bearings, and someone will have a lot of fun.
 

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I remember seeing this build thread come up a while back and thinking it was probably just someone "armchair quarterbacking" a build.

Now that I see the threads, it turned into a properly cool/unique car! Those times look reasonably good at PIR as well.

GLWS and a really cool machine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Thanks for the reply!

So the car needs no other work/adjustment besides the warning lights and iDrive?
It's a fully functional vehicle? Everything works besides the iDrive?


Do you have a carfax report you can share?
Hi, I suggest you read through the original build thread to know a bit of the history of this build. The reason that the car has those warning lights is not because it has lights or they pop up randomly; this is because the physical functions this lights indicate have been removed from this car for this project. As those functions are removed, this is not a 'full functional vehicle' you would expect. In order to remove more than 400 lbs weight to improve the drivability, the following items were removed and was not suppose to be put back.
  • Entire sound system (speakers, amplifiers and related wiring harness)
  • All sound deadening materials glued to the chassis and inside door panels
  • All modules, antennas and wiring harness related to entertainment and accessibility, such as TMS, GPS, bluetooth, remote key, satellite radio, EDC, adaptive headlight
  • All Airbags, seat belt and related sensors & wiring harness (still have OE seat belt for front seats)
  • OE back seats (replaced with delete panel)
  • OE heated seats (replaced with carbon bucket seats, not heated, not electronically adjustable)
  • Part of the iDrive system (suggest to be removed completely)
The suspension and brake system have been upgraded to the best for a balance between street driving and track use. All powertrain related items are completely stock, except for the Meisterschaft GTC muffler exhaust that comes with the car, this is pending next stage modification. The body panels are mostly stock, I replaced hood and back trunk lid with carbon ones but still have the OE parts.

Window sticker of this car is below, you can see the VIN on it which will help you pull any report you want.

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Crazy awesome build. How does it drive on the street with everything removed? Is there a significant increase in NVH? Squeaks and rattles?

Understand that’s not the point of this build, but Some rattles drive me crazy.
 

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View attachment 958257

Long story short, I need the space in my garage for another GT3 race car so I have to sell this car. You can refer to this link for the detailed build story:


Some key modifications to the car:

  • BMW F8X carbon ceramic brake kit ($11000)
  • BMW 19" 763M gold wheel set with PS4S tires ($6000). This set has less than 200 miles on it.
  • BBS
    19" FI-R satin wheel set with CUP2 tires ($10000). This set has about 500 miles on it, within this 500 miles, 100 miles were on track.
  • Recaro carbon fibre pole position seats ($4500)
  • MCS 2 way adjustable damper with camber plate ($3000)
  • Carbon fibre hood, trunk lid, steering wheel and other carbon trims ($3000)
  • Voltphreaks lithium battery ($1000)
  • Complete stripped down to remove sound deadening, air bags, stereos and back seat. Weld in half cage ($9000)
  • Meisterschaft stainless steel remote valve control exhaust (from previous owner)

The current dry weight is 3470 lbs, 31000 miles 34158 miles on the ODO. This car is hell fast...My casual lap time in this car at Portland International Raceway on Cup2 tire is 1:26. I only took it on track once, current setup is not very aggressive since it was originally setup for street drive. I think some serious track alignment, it will make its way to 1:24 without any problem. Some data for reference: Porsche 991 generation 911 GT3RS with CUP2 tire lap time is 1:21. My McLaren 570S SRO GT4 race car's qualifying time is 1:18 on full slick tires.

Something to mention, I think the car is still have OE rod bearing and no revision on SMG as well, I got the car at 30000 miles was planning to do the rod bearing and DCT conversion but never had the time. I would suggest to do rod bearing after you got it.

Also to mention the iDrive system control has been disconnected but the screen is still there, you can either delete the screen completely or reconnect the iDrive control if you still want to use it. You will need to pull the dash out to reconnect, that's quite a lot of work. It also have the following warnings lights which I am too lazy to code out: damper, seatbelt, airbag, tire pressure, adaptive headlight. No check engine light for sure.


Price is $30000 with 763M wheel set or $34000 with BBS FI-R wheel set. Pick up welcomed, I am in Portland Oregon. Will keep this post open for 3 month, if no sell I will part the car out.
How do I contact you
 

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GLWS! This would be a fun street/HPDE car for sure.

My opinion -- suspension selection speaks volumes about the owner (y)

Swap the transmission and address the bearings, and someone will have a lot of fun.
Agreed, tranny swap should have been step 1 with a build like this IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Crazy awesome build. How does it drive on the street with everything removed? Is there a significant increase in NVH? Squeaks and rattles?

Understand that’s not the point of this build, but Some rattles drive me crazy.
Handling is much responsive but I think it need to be even lowered or with slightly stiffer springs. The removal of sound deadening material wont create any noise but you do hear noise coming from the ground a lot more especially when on a dirty surface.
 
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