Original CPS as well as vanos o-rings. Vanos doesn't make any noise if that's an indication of anything..
Scored a 96 on MAF Test!
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Exactly what I'm looking for! Think I should start with say fuel filter, see how that changes anything if at all and just go from there? Or order all sensors, filters, o-rings and do it all in one?
It runs great and maybe its in my head, but honestly expected much more, and the low numbers make me think something needs replaced.
The car was very well maintained from an average drivers perspective, but from an eccentric m5 board member, not so much ouich
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You are in for some fun DIYing. CPS are critical there is no other reference for the computer except the other CPS. The original have proven to be less than perfect. In some cases, like my car, until they are replaced the comp could not figure out what was wrong with the vanos. A trip to a GT1 test is likely half the cost of replacing all four. Lots of posts on the topic some recent good ones. Vanos is very important part of making the M5:M5launch: what it is. If that system is of bad health then getting the rest in good health is probably impossible.
Congrats on your new ride.
Also, make sure you are using the MAF correction factor when comparing with the "healthy" number of 140. Altitude and temperature can make a big difference in expected readout.
Edit: Here's the link for you.
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e3...788-how-test-mafs-yourself-how-mafs-work.html
Spreadsheet is near the bottom of the first post.
Edit: Here's the link for you.
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e3...788-how-test-mafs-yourself-how-mafs-work.html
Spreadsheet is near the bottom of the first post.
I'm at 2,800 feet about 40°f at the time
Ill definately look that over, but sounds like there much more I need to look at as well..
So I guess in a nutshell, my question is: should I start replacing these items not knowing what actually needs to be replaced, or would I be wise to wait for my peake code reader and replace only what the code reader calls for? I'm sure it won't detect vanos rings, so I think I'm going to do those anyways. is that correct that if you remove the vanos cover and they're not leaking I'm good? Or if I've gotten that far into the vanos I might as well take the extra steps and swap em out?
i got same results as you changing fuel filter tomorrow hope it improves
I just ordered my fuel filter today, please keep me posted on how that works out for you!
Feels like there are three conversations going on 'past' yours...
First, you have no CEL light, so you will have no codes. Any you do find will be old, most likely.
NEVER replace parts based only on codes....codes are symptoms, not maintenance steps (so to speak)
So you have no idea what has been done? Here:
New MAFs,
Air filters,
Spark plugs,
fuel filter,
oil,
brake flush,
coolant flush,
pre-cat O2 sensors
Have a GT1 diagnostic done.
Vanos O rings.
MAYBE cps's all 4. Perhaps depends on how she is running.
Then think about suspension rubber.
My vanos o rings were bad, causing no codes, no external leaks, yet they would not hold the proper position leading to performance issues (and failing smog). So you really don't know by looking for leaks- take em out, replace em.
here is the simple truth- you MAY get away for many, many miles by essentially ignoring many of the parts on these cars that age over time...but eventually they will fall out of spec in complex ways...and that is when it becomes an impossible guessing game to identify the ONE item that is causing what you see. By keeping everything maintained it makes the diagnosis so much easier.
A
Thanks Ard. I figured as much. I put a nice chunk of change asides before I purchased in anticipation that all of the above would need changed. After getting her home, it runs so smooth and feels very solid. I started having the mindset "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"Feels like there are three conversations going on 'past' yours...
First, you have no CEL light, so you will have no codes. Any you do find will be old, most likely.
NEVER replace parts based only on codes....codes are symptoms, not maintenance steps (so to speak)
So you have no idea what has been done? Here:
New MAFs,
Air filters,
Spark plugs,
fuel filter,
oil,
brake flush,
coolant flush,
pre-cat O2 sensors
Have a GT1 diagnostic done.
Vanos O rings.
MAYBE cps's all 4. Perhaps depends on how she is running.
Then think about suspension rubber.
My vanos o rings were bad, causing no codes, no external leaks, yet they would not hold the proper position leading to performance issues (and failing smog). So you really don't know by looking for leaks- take em out, replace em.
here is the simple truth- you MAY get away for many, many miles by essentially ignoring many of the parts on these cars that age over time...but eventually they will fall out of spec in complex ways...and that is when it becomes an impossible guessing game to identify the ONE item that is causing what you see. By keeping everything maintained it makes the diagnosis so much easier.
A
I will change all of the above I was planning for it in the first place. Hopefully in the process it restores some lost power!
Looked through all records..Car was maintained at Dryer & Reinbold dealership in Indianapolis for the entire life of the car. At 38,000 miles there was a "bank 1 intake cam sensor fault as well as a bank 2 exhaust sensor" They were replaced. Those are the only sensors that have been replaced in the car.
My experience: bought my '01 with 66k, felt not as quick as it should be and hesitated at low rpm + light throttle. MAF test was 101 corrected. Cleaned them, no improvement. Got new VW MAFs and the MAF test shot up to mid-high 130s. Far better performance (felt like +40-50hp) and eliminated the hesitation. Days later I changed the fuel filter and although I did not repeat the MAF test, there was definitely a small but significant performance boost.
You are definitely due for new MAFs and a fuel filter is a must in this car and cheap anyway. Do both and your car will surely perform better. If you still don't get close to 140 on the MAF test, then you can troubleshoot from there.
You are definitely due for new MAFs and a fuel filter is a must in this car and cheap anyway. Do both and your car will surely perform better. If you still don't get close to 140 on the MAF test, then you can troubleshoot from there.
Thanks Beast. My fuel filter should be here soon, and I just ordered everything Ard recommended above, excluding brake/ coolant flush as that has been done very recently.
Hoping by doing all that I have the same outcome as you did!
Hi everyone. Yes, I'm an annoying newbie with a recent purchase. A few month ago I bought a 2000 model, red/black interior, 46k miles and an array of maintenance records. Car came with new Pilots all around and was incredibly clean. I paid $22k, not the best deal, but I bit the bullet. Inspection 1 completed - records and receipts to prove. At 40k, plugs and fuel filter were changed (receipts included). Also had records for oil changes and various odds and ends (seat motor, cup holder replacements, etc...). Anyway, it was a 1 owner, and it was SUUUPPPPERR clean.
I replaced my C5 vette with this (I have a kid now - need the room) as a weekend/project car. Needless to say, after a 1000 miles, I started noticing random sputtering/misfires at full throttle. A few times the car went into limp mode and threw up the SES. P0171 was the odbii code. After reading multiple threads on MAFs and such, I performed the tests. I scored in the high 140s at full throttle in 1st gear, 80 in 2nd and 70 in 3rd. I tried cleaning the MAFS, but could not get the wire harness disconnected from the sensor (damn thing was stuch - I squeezed the life out of the tabs, but could not get them out). Anyway, I used the CRC cleaner to clean as much as I could with the housing still attached to the sensor. The car responded better, but after a couple of more rides, the problem began to reoccur.
I assume I should probably purchase new MAFs. I wanted to get your thoughts before the purchase. Seems inline with what many others have experienced based on the threads.
I replaced my C5 vette with this (I have a kid now - need the room) as a weekend/project car. Needless to say, after a 1000 miles, I started noticing random sputtering/misfires at full throttle. A few times the car went into limp mode and threw up the SES. P0171 was the odbii code. After reading multiple threads on MAFs and such, I performed the tests. I scored in the high 140s at full throttle in 1st gear, 80 in 2nd and 70 in 3rd. I tried cleaning the MAFS, but could not get the wire harness disconnected from the sensor (damn thing was stuch - I squeezed the life out of the tabs, but could not get them out). Anyway, I used the CRC cleaner to clean as much as I could with the housing still attached to the sensor. The car responded better, but after a couple of more rides, the problem began to reoccur.
I assume I should probably purchase new MAFs. I wanted to get your thoughts before the purchase. Seems inline with what many others have experienced based on the threads.
Sir, Len- welcome!
The text bolded above is almost certain proof you tested the MAFs in the wrong 'mode'... You want to be in the Liters/Hr mode and not Km/Liter. There are two 'modes' and a second press brings you to the next mode within that one test. The L/hr should not change so dramatically as you indicated.
Cleaning is only a partial fix- the fouling over time creates an insulating oxide layer that cannot be removed with solvent. Yes, the hydrocarbons and soot will clean off, and a resultant improvement, but the oxide remains. Just replace the MAFs if the reading is low...and try not to buy Chinese counterfeits.
Report back
A
You were absolutely right. I selected the wrong option. I redid the test, and WOT, I was attaining a mid 70s reading in what seemed like all 3 gears. OK, new MAFs it is.
BTW - what a helpful forum. I'm not alone!
I remember skimming over the MAF pns listed on multiple threads. I remember reading that there were 2 options, the VW and OEM. I'll start doing some digging on where to order them. Again, thanks for your help.
BTW - what a helpful forum. I'm not alone!
I remember skimming over the MAF pns listed on multiple threads. I remember reading that there were 2 options, the VW and OEM. I'll start doing some digging on where to order them. Again, thanks for your help.
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the best deal is from the forum sponsor, bimmerzone - 100% OEM - check the group buy section and send them an email/PM
As far as your MAF test numbers go, they are very subjective but at "70" you need new MAFs and may be more. I foolishly spent a lot of time running after the elusive 140 MAF number and never found it.
My car wont do better than 128-132 yet I am making 331 RWHP Bone Stock, just to give you an idea that once you get in the 125+ range, you are almost 95%-98% there. Dont start throwing parts at the car just to reach the 140+ number.
Good luck
I was a little surprised by how low the number was as well. On one end it supports the symptoms the car is showing, high RPM stutter at WOT, sometimes reverting to limp mode and throwing up the SES. On the other hand, I hope its nothing more critical. I'll check out the group buy section now. Keeping fingers crossed its nothing worst.
BTW, nice garage Desmotesta. I recently sold my Honda vtr1000. I previously owned a gsxr 750 as well. My wife insisted on a toy reduction when my daughter was a born in 2010.
BTW, nice garage Desmotesta. I recently sold my Honda vtr1000. I previously owned a gsxr 750 as well. My wife insisted on a toy reduction when my daughter was a born in 2010.
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2,218 Posts
You are right about the number being low, and also about the fact that it goes to prove the issue at WOT and higher RPMs.
There is basically not enough fuel at high rpms. Are you original Fuel filter/pre cat O2 sensors? Both of them are under $100 items and can make all the difference.
I would still suggest getting the MAfs first and then test/report back.
Thank you regarding the garage. I may have to get rid of a toy or two, My aprilia has not been used in over a year and its getting harder and harder to justify.
good luck
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