That thread is wrong it was a bad assumption. If the B0 code is cleared it likely will not come back. It is exactly what it says, the test was aborted because.... where the moisture comes from is in question but the code is not a fault it is simply an advisory. If the code comes back after clearing then you might want to look at the intakes to the system to see if there is water trapped somewhere it is not suppose to be.but this thread says it may be your issue as well-
The service light turned on so I bought the scanner to check it out. The car rumbles at idle every 15 minutes or so. I already bought some plugs and coils before this so I was going to throw those on before I drive the car again to see if a light pops up.That thread is wrong it was a bad assumption. If the B0 code is cleared it likely will not come back. It is exactly what it says, the test was aborted because.... where the moisture comes from is in question but the code is not a fault it is simply an advisory. If the code comes back after clearing then you might want to look at the intakes to the system to see if there is water trapped somewhere it is not suppose to be.
The 20 code we need more info on, does it come back the next drive when cleared? Is the check engine light on? When was the last time the codes were cleared? It is odd that it would be by itself without at minimum a misfire code. Does the car have any drivability issues?
Hmmm alright. I'll go out and buy a gas cap, they are pretty cheap. I don't think this car has had that changed its entire life.Hello and welcome to the forum. How old is your gas cap? Is the rubber gasket dry and cracked? I’d check that first for “tank leak”. I had a different code when my cap needed replacing, but this thread says it may be your issue as well-
Peakes Code b0
I’d look into that, then clear codes and see what if anything comes back.
Great I'll do just that.My advice would be to start with plugs and coils as you stated. For the evap code, I'm nearly 100% certain the gas cap does not trigger that code. The code is for the DMTL valve which is located behind the rear bumper on the driver side (US). It can be accessed by unbolting the inner fender liner and pulling it back. I'd clear the codes and see if it comes back. It might take a while.
Hmmm. So assuming it is, what would I even need to do for that code?At the risk of further complicating the issue more than I already have, shouldn't hex code B0 be “Air-fuel adaptation at idle, Cyl #1-4”?
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Interesting, opens a debate from years past and the true source of the error with the code definitions. Surely Foxwell did not just copy the Peake list they downloaded from the net, or maybe they did? I have two lists that don't agree one from INPA and one from Peake and the Peake is suppose to be the updated or revised code list. On the code B0, that list has it as an adaption code. But why is the Foxwell reporting the other definition and Inpa list agrees. From the early days there are conversations that suggest that the DIS list and INPA list don't agree?shouldn't hex code B0 be “Air-fuel adaptation at idle, Cyl #1-4”?
Wow. The OBDII code is misfire in cylinder 6 when I pulled it with an pepboy scanner.Interesting, opens a debate from years past and the true source of the error with the code definitions. Surely Foxwell did not just copy the Peake list they downloaded from the net, or maybe they did? I have two lists that don't agree one from INPA and one from Peake and the Peake is suppose to be the updated or revised code list. On the code B0, that list has it as an adaption code. But why is the Foxwell reporting the other definition and Inpa list agrees. From the early days there are conversations that suggest that the DIS list and INPA list don't agree?
Quite frankly the adaption code fits better with the others listed below and makes more sense with the 20 code, but is still on the wrong bank since it talks about cyl 6 and that is on bank 2, would you not expect B1 instead? Precisely why I stuck with OBDII codes and scanner when I first got this car, and it is what I was trained in.
Anyway here nor there the first steps of any diagnosis are simple and straight forward and should shed some light on the real definition.
OP has no experience with the scanner, it is new. The codes need to be cleared and then read to confirm they were cleared. Key to position two read the codes, then clear them. Key to position 0 and the scanner unplugged and shutdown. Re-read and confirm that there are no codes, but every scanner is different so read their instructions.
Next he needs to understand drive cycle and I suggest he searches the open net to get a full understanding, but in short a drive cycle is start the car and when you turn it off that ends the drive cycle. Sort of anyway BMWs break that rule for some parts of the codes but not all. If on a drive you pull over turn the beast off then immediately restart some parts are treated as the same drive cycle but some are not, so lets avoid that. If you wait 5 mins or so after shutdown that should start a new drive cycle.
Assuming the drive goes well, without turning the car off plug in the scanner and read the codes, are there any? On a piece of paper mark one for one drive cycle, and add a number each time the car is started until both codes are seen. Might take ten times, might take two? When the codes appear do not clear them again, unless you want to start over.
When does the light appear? The check engine light appears when the same fault is registered on two consecutive drive cycles, so back to back, make a note of when this happens and note how long each drive cycle is for a better understanding later. It might take two long drives in a row.
It only gets more complicated as we go on, the 20 code will report if you have a bad driver in the computer that opens the injector, maybe a bad wire or the obvious bad injector. It is an electrical fault but still could be dirt, if the injector does not produce the backwards volts for closing or does not open and produce the slight amps drop the code can still be set. Narrowing the cause down will take work and the skill set to remove injectors and swap them or replace them. There is other work that should be done while doing those steps like replacing all the oring seals for the injectors. Maybe sending the good ones out to be cleaned.
Is this your daily car? Do you have another?
By chance do you remember the P# not important but there are several described as misfire and they mean different things. You might also think of buying a bottle of Techron or any other high quality injector cleaner based on the P.E.A. chemical additive. The fact that the P code for an electrical fault did not show in OBDII might just mean the fault that the HEX system is picking up is the lack of electrical secondary signal from the injector actually opening or closing. No going to hurt and will be less than 10 bucks. Then on your next fill use a upper head lube like Lucas at 2X the dose for the first tank and maybe things will fix themselves.The OBDII code is misfire in cylinder 6
The OBDII P0206 and P1434. I can throw in a high quality cleaner and then Lucas and see how that goes.By chance do you remember the P# not important but there are several described as misfire and they mean different things. You might also think of buying a bottle of Techron or any other high quality injector cleaner based on the P.E.A. chemical additive. The fact that the P code for an electrical fault did not show in OBDII might just mean the fault that the HEX system is picking up is the lack of electrical secondary signal from the injector actually opening or closing. No going to hurt and will be less than 10 bucks. Then on your next fill use a upper head lube like Lucas at 2X the dose for the first tank and maybe things will fix themselves.
That's interesting, the windshield cowl is in a rough condition, I got the parts to change it out, just haven't had the time yet. maybe water is getting in somewhere it shouldn't. I cleared it, so maybe it wont happen again once I fix the cowl.Thanks for that it makes things clearer sort of. Now I am less sure of the hex codes but it makes the codes your Foxwell reported accurate. Nothing has changed with the steps but be more detailed with gathering your results, we don't really have an idea of what is what yet.
First the P0206 is the same as the hex code. That code also looks for the secondary electrical signals and it is not a misfire code. It is a fault in some part electrically.
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Here is where it gets more interesting the P1434 says DMTL and more specifically here are all the criteria.
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If what this says is true you may not see it again and if you do, could be water where it is not suppose to be or the heater element might be failing, don't know will have to look more into this section.
Not the cowl; all that DMTL stuff is in the back, IIRC you get at it by removing a rear wheel and then the splash shield. Sorry only slightly remember but could be backwards but I think it is the side with the filler neck.the windshield cowl is in a rough condition
Ah well I cleared the codes so lets see what happens. I also replaced the:Not the cowl; all that DMTL stuff is in the back, IIRC you get at it by removing a rear wheel and then the splash shield. Sorry only slightly remember but could be backwards but I think it is the side with the filler neck.
As far as the injector goes it is firing or you would have other codes so most likely it is going over the max amperage of 7.4 A which could be dirt, they call it "open" but if it was completely open it would not fire and you would have a misfire which the DME always reports.
Oriented from where? Is the left side bank two and the top plug closest to the front or 5? 6 would be second from the top on the left side? Do you still know which is which? If so a close up pic of 6 alone, one from the side and one looking straight down on the tip. That said the pic is large and zooms well and really there is nothing that jumps out other than sort of normal, how old are those?(Spark plugs oriented from front of car)
Oriented. If you were standing in front of the hood and looked at the car. So top right would be the cylinder closest to the driver.Oriented from where? Is the left side bank two and the top plug closest to the front or 5? 6 would be second from the top on the left side? Do you still know which is which? If so a close up pic of 6 alone, one from the side and one looking straight down on the tip. That said the pic is large and zooms well and really there is nothing that jumps out other than sort of normal, how old are those?
I think that is cylinder 6. So time to buy another fuel injector 😅 because before I bought it the previous owner sent them in for cleaning.Spark plug seconx from bottom on left appears to be awfull dark , possible fuel fouled .
Good luck with that. You will see I won't bore you.So time to buy another fuel injector
Yup. I took a pic of six then. But thanks for numbering it. It'll be great reference next time. I'll see how the liqui moly injector cleaner works. The light hasn't gone back on yet but the scanner picked up the fault. So I'll see if the light stays off before i jump the gun on a 400 dollar injector.Good luck with that. You will see I won't bore you.
Nothing wrong with that burn for that plug. There is some odd but it is not showing either a injector dumping fuel or not giving enough.
Darn forgot the pic showing how things are numbered. US car bank one in front of the pass, bank 2 in front of the driver, smallest number to the front bumper.
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