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I'm doing it. Have about 13k on the current oil, though I have added 5 or 6qts in the interim. Getting it changed right before it hits 15k. Ill take pictures of the oil and filter when they do the change. I do not expect to see good things. Also plan to send a sample to Blackstone for analysis. Ill report on all when I have the information.

I'll go ahead and slip into my flame suit now.

-PRK
 
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One. Curious to see the condition if the oil. I know it is not a true representation as oil has been added, yet I am still curious.
Two. Because the car tells me I can.
Three. I do love the car, but it is under a comprehensive warranty, if I run it close to the limit and the engine fails the warranty company is liable. If the engine blows, I wont shed a tear nor a dollar.
Four. While I do live the car, if my current job works out as planned Ill be in a '10 next year and my current car will be sold. Obviously I don't plan to keep this car, the next one? That may be a different story, I'll be looking for the lowest mile example I can find in a particular color scheme and options list.

Thanks,

-PRK
 
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Would be interesting to see an oil report on 15k mile oil.
 
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FYI, my oil was changed by the dealer under original maintenance plan Aug 2012 and 45,000 miles right after I bought my car. They reported 10L oil added and my gauge was topped up. I let the CBS run its course, and it allowed me 23 months and 9,500 miles before telling me "Service due" Also, I did not have to add any oil, while the gauge dropped gradually from "full" to just above "add 1L" during the 23 months/9,500 miles. I DIY my oil July 2014 and sent off a sample to Blackstone. They noted the miles on the oil was above the normal they see on S85s, but other than that, no significant findings in the sample.
 

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"I'm doing it. Have about 13k on the current oil, though I have added 5 or 6qts in the interim." ( Quote )

Do you know where the 5 to 6 quarts that you where down went?

If lost due to oxidation you now have 2-lbs of sludge sitting in your engine.

If lost due to burning oil you it can even be bigger problem, since the 10W-60 has a massive amount of VI improvers (index of 189 which is the highest I have ever seen). The oil base may burn OK but leave behind carbon deposits (not good) the VI improvers do not burn clean at all; leaving behind combustion byproducts of a sticky varnish like substance that can hold the rings in maximum retraction mode (ring sticking) increasing blow-by and oil burning in an ever increasing detrimental cycle (this is very bad).

YOU may have a warranty but if sludge is found to be restricting your oil pick-up they may have second thoughts of paying out your claim.

I hope you just have an oil leak.
 

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" I let the CBS run its course, and it allowed me 23 months and 9,500 miles before telling me "Service due" Also, I did not have to add any oil, while the gauge dropped gradually from "full" to just above "add 1L" during the 23 months/9,500 miles. I DIY my oil July 2014 and sent off a sample to Blackstone. They noted the miles on the oil was above the normal they see on S85s, but other than that, no significant findings in the sample." ( Quote )


1-quart usage in 9500 miles is more than required to keep the top ring lubricated (the scraping action of the top ring on the down stroke never is able to recover 100% of the oil sitting above the second ring).

The fact that by going over the previous 9500 milestone you are down 5-additional quarts in order to get to 13000 miles tells me that the oil has lost stability and is oxidizing fast in the last 3000 miles. The original oil is no longer functioning per the TWS specification except for that you had added.

New oil mixed with sludge does not equal a TWS grade oil.
 

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I have mine changed every 7K max. I plan on keeping the car for a while.

EDIT: Bad thing is I have the Blackstone kit I was going to send off last oil change....but I forgot it. Will save it for next time.
 

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" I let the CBS run its course, and it allowed me 23 months and 9,500 miles before telling me "Service due" Also, I did not have to add any oil, while the gauge dropped gradually from "full" to just above "add 1L" during the 23 months/9,500 miles. I DIY my oil July 2014 and sent off a sample to Blackstone. They noted the miles on the oil was above the normal they see on S85s, but other than that, no significant findings in the sample." ( Quote )


1-quart usage in 9500 miles is more than required to keep the top ring lubricated (the scraping action of the top ring on the down stroke never is able to recover 100% of the oil sitting above the second ring).

The fact that by going over the previous 9500 milestone you are down 5-additional quarts in order to get to 13000 miles tells me that the oil has lost stability and is oxidizing fast in the last 3000 miles. The original oil is no longer functioning per the TWS specification except for that you had added.

New oil mixed with sludge does not equal a TWS grade oil.
Sorry for confusion caused. The above 9,500 mile sequence is my own experience, not the OP. The OP did not report the sequence of needing to add oil in his 13,000 mile run so far.
 

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Sorry for confusion caused. The above 9,500 mile sequence is my own experience, not the OP. The OP did not report the sequence of needing to add oil in his 13,000 mile run so far.

It was past my bed time was not paying attention to who was posting, thus my confused mind jumped into pattern recognition mode.

The pattern: accelerated oil burning and oxidation near end of oil life.

The experience: My 2007 Tundra specified 5W-20 or 0W-20 changes every 5,000 miles, however the 2010 models specified synthetic to be changed every 10,000 miles, I unfortunately tried it with 0W-20 Mobil-1 oil and was good up to 9,800-mies (a nice light honey color) still half way between full and add which is my target level on every oil change.

My Brother flew in and asked to borrow one of the many cars I had in order to drive to Canada, I gave him the Tundra, when he got back 1,200-miles later it was down a quart and idle oil pressure had dropped below the usual halfway mark.

The oil was substantially darker and Bearing material was found in oil drain pan and filter.

Lessons learned, do not go over 9,000 miles even on the best synthetic oil, 0W-20 is too thin to use in the summer, tell my Brother to rent a car next time.
 

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Unfortunately...

When you sell the car you can post the vin# so people in this forum can steer away from your car!:eek:
This is exactly how most of the well healed first owners of most of these cars likely ran them, hell most of them probably weren't even aware of the lack of, nor for that matter had ever touched a dipstick...Drive the piss out of the thing and trade for something else once it got boring or another whim hit...
 
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I'm not sure if I should say I can't wait for the results or if I should say I feel extremely sorry for your car. Not sure why you've made this into an experiment to be at 15k but it honestly can't be good. I think you need to put on 2 flame suits.
 

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This is exactly how most of the well healed first owners of most of these cars likely ran them, hell most of them probably weren't even aware of the lack of, nor for that matter had ever touched a dipstick...Drive the piss out of the thing and trade for something else once it got boring or another whim hit...
No doubt! Especially if your car was originally a lease...what's the incentive to overly maintain something leased?

1) Follow the CBS and factory intervals;

2) Turn the car in after their lease expires,

3) and "on to the next"...
 

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"The OP did not report the sequence of needing to add oil in his 13,000 mile run so far." quote by SilberGrauE60

Perhaps some confusion there as well.



"I'm doing it. Have about 13k on the current oil, though I have added 5 or 6qts in the interim." quote by prkelly.



The red high lighted statement above is what prompted me to post a boat load of concerns and possible consequences.

I know TWS is only a good a type-3 oil but not a great one like a true type-4 Ester but adding 6-quarts during a change interval sequence tells me the TWS has long given up serving it's lubricating function or there is a hole in the oil pan.
 

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Most extended warranties (and the factory warranty too I believe) require oil to be changed at 15,000 mile or 12 months, whichever is first. My car has been in the shop for almost two months (a long story I will post soon). Thankfully I changed my oil within the 12 month requirement, even though I had only driven about 4,000 miles. Had I not done that, I would have been looking at a $7,000+ bill.
 
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