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Discussion Starter #1
I'm pretty sure this cable carries +12V but I was wondering if anyone here knows what it's actually for. Thanks!
If the pictures don't make it clear I'm referring to the white+red cable.



P.S. I'm looking for a relatively safe cable to tap for 12V for my DRL Angel Eyes mod.
 

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You can tap that Red with white stripe wire.

It stays on for a few seconds after engine shuts off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You can tap that Red with white stripe wire.

It stays on for a few seconds after engine shuts off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks! Do you know what the wire goes to? I just want to know for peace of mind. Say for example it goes to the ABS pump and my abs light comes on, I know its because of the tap.
 

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Thread followed.

If the angel eyes stays on after shutting of the engine for a while, that would almost be like the new cars with walk-home feature.
Please keep us updated.
 

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That would be super cool! But then wouldn't they turn off when the interior lights turn off?
Well that's why you still need to tap into an ignition-switched 12V source (like that red/white wire you found), and then you need to use two diodes at each of the OE wires to keep them isolated from each other. Works great though; how I did it and the LED angel eyes nicely fade on when you unlock the car and fade off when you lock it, and then are just on all the time when the key is switched on!
 

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Oh and as to your original question, I think that red/white wire goes from the DME to provide power to some relays via fuse #31. I don't think I'd mess with this one actually. Shouldn't really hurt anything, but it's tied to kinda important systems. Instead, I'd use one of the switched 12V wires going to the OBD diagnostic connector. Again can't be 100% sure due to model/year variations, but there should be a red/black wire there from fuse #25, or a green/white from fuse #15, both of which power 'less critical' components and thus in my opinion would be better choices.
 

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Are they aftermarket angel eyes? You can enable the stock AEs to be on all the time with PA Soft.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well that's why you still need to tap into an ignition-switched 12V source (like that red/white wire you found), and then you need to use two diodes at each of the OE wires to keep them isolated from each other. Works great though; how I did it and the LED angel eyes nicely fade on when you unlock the car and fade off when you lock it, and then are just on all the time when the key is switched on!
Oh and as to your original question, I think that red/white wire goes from the DME to provide power to some relays via fuse #31. I don't think I'd mess with this one actually. Shouldn't really hurt anything, but it's tied to kinda important systems. Instead, I'd use one of the switched 12V wires going to the OBD diagnostic connector. Again can't be 100% sure due to model/year variations, but there should be a red/black wire there from fuse #25, or a green/white from fuse #15, both of which power 'less critical' components and thus in my opinion would be better choices.
So much great knowledge in these two comments. I'll definitely think about doing the fade on/off thing. As for the wire to tap, thats exactly what I want, a wire that drivers less important systems. The diagnostic port wire would be exactly what I want. Is that cable in the engine bay?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Are they aftermarket angel eyes? You can enable the stock AEs to be on all the time with PA Soft.
They're stock angel eyes indeed. I thought that it wasn't possible to do this through coding on the E39. Where do I find that option?
 

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Ok, let me rephrase that. I know it can be done if you have a LCM IV (I have done it). When I still had my LCM III, I was able to enable them as DRLs through my Intravee. So, if the Intravee can do it, I think it should be possible with coding as well. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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The diagnostic port wire would be exactly what I want. Is that cable in the engine bay?
Sure - this big round plug thingy. I suggest it because it's near to that area where you're already working, although I'm not sure if its wires go to/from the Ebox somewhere or not:
944363


Also, think I need to correct my earlier wires: look for a Green/White wire. Should be the one supplied by Fuse #15, and goes to Pin #16 of the big round plug:
944364
944365


You can test by pulling fuse 15 and seeing if that kills pin 15. Also fuse 15 looks like it only runs to a temperature switch, alternator, and oil level switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Sure - this big round plug thingy. I suggest it because it's near to that area where you're already working, although I'm not sure if its wires go to/from the Ebox somewhere or not:
View attachment 944363

Also, think I need to correct my earlier wires: look for a Green/White wire. Should be the one supplied by Fuse #15, and goes to Pin #16 of the big round plug:
View attachment 944364 View attachment 944365

You can test by pulling fuse 15 and seeing if that kills pin 15. Also fuse 15 looks like it only runs to a temperature switch, alternator, and oil level switch.
Thanks for all the help! I don't have the pacman connector under the hood since I drive an 02. I'll have to do some investigating. Where did you find those diagrams?
 

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I don't have the pacman connector under the hood since I drive an 02
Aww ****elsticks, that's right, facelifts don't have that anymore, sorry! BUT good news, I think that green/white wire from fuse 15 is STILL right there for you, in fact I think it's in that same connector, just in the opposite corner from the red/white one! Here's the link to the wiring site I use:
And I think that X6011 connector in the middle of that circuit is that one right in your ebox! What good fortune! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok, let me rephrase that. I know it can be done if you have a LCM IV (I have done it). When I still had my LCM III, I was able to enable them as DRLs through my Intravee. So, if the Intravee can do it, I think it should be possible with coding as well. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Really? How is this not more well known? IS there a post somewhere that shows you how to enable them?
 

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You can also program them with NCS Expert for Dummies

LCM III is possible, I also have DRL enabled. However I have an X-Style Light module because I also wanted comfort blinking.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You can also program them with NCS Expert for Dummies

LCM III is possible, I also have DRL enabled. However I have an X-Style Light module because I also wanted comfort blinking.
Wait. So you have your angel eyes set up as DRLs with the LCMIII and no other extra circuitry?
 

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For me DRL means contact on, low beam on together with the rings. I now have the X-Style light module (BMW), I activate it with my light switch on "ON" and when I switch of the car, the lights go out. Follow me home I have via the high beam/blinker lever.

But it should be possible to code it with:
NavCoder
BMW Scanner 1.4
NCS Expert

But only if your LCM is III or higher. No rewiring required then.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
For me DRL means contact on, low beam on together with the rings. I now have the X-Style light module (BMW), I activate it with my light switch on "ON" and when I switch of the car, the lights go out. Follow me home I have via the high beam/blinker lever.

But it should be possible to code it with:
NavCoder
BMW Scanner 1.4
NCS Expert

But only if your LCM is III or higher. No rewiring required then.
Oh, I'd never heard of that module. I've already disabled the normal DLRs via the high beams. Would that mean I'd only have AEs as DRLs?
 
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