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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Last week when I was trying to stop the last of my weeping oil leaks I discovered something I think is very important. I think this maybe the smoking gun on rod bearing failure. What I found was one of the oil solenoids for the scavenging system was not working and the other only worked 90% of the time. If these don't work I would think that it would be easy to run out of available oil in a high G situation. If you ran out for a moment I would think you would get the failures we are seeing with rod bearings. It would be interesting to see if anyone that had a bad bearing has tested or replaced these. If they were not replaced or repaired they likely would still not work.

All of the codes with this car, and I am pretty sure that there is no check on the condition of these two important parts. Even if there was a test for these parts I am sure the DME would not see what was wrong on the two wire system. My solenoids were still electrically sound and probably would not throw a code even if there was one for them. With some effort both are working well again. They are very expensive($620) so I am glad they were repairable.

The weeping oil maybe the key to seeing a failed solenoid. The one that was completely stuck is the one that was weeping and now that it is fixed it is not weeping. I did not change the o rings as I could not find a fault with them and I did not have spares that size. I was not organized for this it was meant to be an exploratory investigation after an engine shampoo the week before. From now on I am going to test these two parts at every oil change. The plug is a standard plug to I am simply going to unplug the lead put the test plug on and apply 12v and make sure it has a solid sounding click.

Interesting to me was the solenoid not working is newer than the working one, it had been replaced before I purchased the car at sometime. It was the one on the right side of the engine.

On to the pics and the repair of the solenoids. Pics are bad and not enough but I was not organized to document what I thought was exploratory, my bad sorry. The key points will be seen. First these are on opposite sides of the engine, they are just behind and above the lower oil pan. They are hard to pull out and oil flows from the upper engine when you pull them. The oil must be out to pull them, but you will see about 1ltr extra oil come out per solenoid.

I would suggest even if these are working they need to be pulled if never out before and the piston cleaned . I found lots of sludge in the working one but very little in the non working one.

These are really a two part solenoid but they cannot come apart. The part in the engine is spring loaded to return to a position. That did not seem to be the problem at all. The encased solenoid was the problem with the not working one, but was less than perfect on the working one, which also benefited from the cleaning.
There is one part that can be removed and must be removed to clean the inside of the encased coil and plunger. That is the black end cap which is held on by two nuts and accompanying plastic washers. Simply remove the two nuts and slide the cap straight out. It plugs into the solenoid so no worries about breaking a wire. That was my biggest concern. Now that the cap is off you can gain a bit of access to the working parts.
oil_solenoid_4.jpg

The plug end that now can be seen should float in the hole it protrudes through. This is a floating assembly as it is not attached to its case. I was satisfied with my cleaning when I could easily wiggle it in the hole. Basically the cleaning is easy spray in brake cleaner and and blow it out with compressed air. Don't rush to apply 12 v to activate it because the heat in the coil will ignite the fumes. Not a bad thing but startling. These are not driven in the car by straight 12v but a pulsed 12v so don't hold the power to it to long or you may burn out the coil. The case will get warm to warn you. I repeated that step several times and left the noid end up soaking for some time.
Then I went after it with fluid film which is an oil in a can, but not a penetrator, it is designed to stay and last. I still blew everything out that I could. I was also wiggling the plug back and forth thru all of these steps. It got easier to do until it was like butter.
oil_solenoid_1.jpg

The above was for the working one. The none worker was a little more work and this is where I found out leaving 12 v attached would ignite the fumes from the cleaners or the cleaners themselves. First I hooked a wire around the piston that would be inside the engine and pulled it up and secured it in that position. If you look closely at the center side of the plug thru the hole in the case you can see a bit of metal. I think this is the end plate of the plunger. I used a very small screw driver to push this down once I saw it moved a bit. Once I had it moving a bit the 12v started to make it work so I went back to the above steps of cleaner blowing and activating repeatedly.
oil_solenoid_2.jpg
 

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Hmmm, I had one of mine out a couple of weeks ago to replace a broken o-ring. It looked clean enough so I didn't clean or test it. Was the non-functional solenoid where the leak was?
 

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I had both of mine changed out 2-3 months before I spun a bearing (Tischer had the best service and pricing at the time). And the motor burned almost no oil. Go figure......
Regards,
Jerry
 

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Where are these located? I"ll have to take a look and test them! What amperage of 12V did you test them with? is 2A from a battery charger sufficient?

Jamie
 

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Where are these located? I"ll have to take a look and test them! What amperage of 12V did you test them with? is 2A from a battery charger sufficient?

Jamie
Sides of the upper oil pan. I can't remember exactly, but I think the solenoids have to be removed before the oil pump can be removed.

--Peter
 

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correct, you have to remove them before you can remove the oil pump. the reason these probably get gummed up is because on a street car they probably aren't activated very often.


Sailor24, this is rather uncommon leak but i had the exact same one, as did Kevin The Clean. it is a very slight leak but its annoying none the less. mine was on the same side and so was kevin's. i removed it and replaced the o-ring but it still leaked. what i ended up doing was removing the solenoid and replacing the o-ring with one from a junk maf. the fit was much better, tighter. i also added a bit of permatex #2 around the o-ring. since then it hasn't leaked a drop.
 

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Is this part different than the ones the Z8 S62 uses?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes the none functioning one was leaking. I still don't know what made me activate it, but I am glad I did. The other very strange thing is I don't seem to be consuming much oil anymore. I thought it was weeping but maybe it was a bigger leak than I thought.
 

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turns out my fixed one is still leaking even with 3 new o-rings. back goes the permatex band-aid until the next oil change, when I will pull both and test :sad1:
 

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So you guys are able to access and remove these without dropping the lower pan right?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Mine has stopped leaking no idea why though. I am going at this again this weekend and doing some more. I was not prepared for what I found and did not complete the work I had on my list. I have found some info on how these are suppose to work but I am still not sure what they do other than change the pick up point. You may know and be able to tell me if these only open at high G only or do they operate at other times? If they don't open will oil be forced into places that it should not be?

The other thing that is very puzzling is I have not consumed any oil since I fixed these. Track record has been about a litre every 1000km, I am 350km and still at the full line. I did switch to liqui moly from tws, but I can't think that would have any effect.


tacoma330ci I used jumper leads from my battery, I would think 2A would be enough to activate them.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ya no problem getting at them on the right side ,left side is a bit harder. I had my lower pan off to finish a job the PO did not complete when he put his timesert in. The pan was back on before I put them back in. I think you could even fix these without removing them just taking off the black end cap, but you may not be able to blow out the excess oil and cleaners.
 

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i'd have to look at the training manual for the s62 to find out for sure when exactly they activate.

i activated mine with the gt1 yesterday and they both worked correctly. these suckers seem really robust as the sound they make when activated is suprisingly loud for such as small solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Get in there and try pulling on those springs on the engine side or pushing the end plate. I was shocked how strong they were. I read though the training manual, but I still have questions that are unanswered.
 

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i'd have to look at the training manual for the s62 to find out for sure when exactly they activate.
i activated mine with the gt1 yesterday and they both worked correctly. these suckers seem really robust as the sound they make when activated is suprisingly loud for such as small solenoid.
When the side loading hits a certain g level (.5?), the solenoids open.
Regards,
Jerry
 
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