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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Failing throttle actuators are quite common on the S85,so here is a DIY.

I am NOT liable if you screw up your car or health in any way following this DIY!


It is necessary to carry out initializing of the new throttle motor using DIS or ISTA after the replacement.



First,disconnect battery.

I also removed the micro filters and the panels for easier access to the back of the air boxes(it is possible to remove the vacuum lines without removing the panels,but it is easier when they are removed).

Then remove the air filter boxes(open the clamps on the air filter boxes,disconnect the MAFs and open the clamps of the pipes going into the air boxes)




Then disconnect the hoses on the back sides of the air boxes,the breather hoses on the sides and the hoses for the idle air in the front.

Use a flexible screw driver with a 6mm socket to open the clamps that attach the air boxes to the throttle bodies and remove the air boxes.



Cover butterflies with a cloth to protect debris falling in them.


Remove the bolt in the front and nut in the rear that hold the wiring loom down(tightening torque 10NM)



In the pic above the two vacuum hoses connecting to the air boxes are also visible.

Next is removing the plus wire coming from the jump starting point on bank1 as well as the second plus wire on the terminal(plasitc nut,see pic below,17mm socket,25NM tightening torque) and the cover of the ionic current unit on bank 2(10mm socket,tightening torque 10NM).

Also remove the bolt for the wiring loom(see pic below,10mm socket,tightening torque 10 NM)



Next disconnect the two plugs on the bank2 wiring loom side(mark then to connect the right ones again)



Disconnect also the bank 1 connector




Disconnect the throttle linkage of the actuator you replace(pry gently with a screw driver between linkage and ball pin of actuator) and remove the electrical connector.



The actuator has 3 bolts that attach it to the engine(10mm socket,tightening torque 10NM).

By moving the wiring loom carefully,it is possible to remove the bolts.




It is a bit tricky to remove and install the new actuator as it is very tight between the throttle bodies and the wiring loom.

But being careful,it is possible without breaking anything.

New actuator:



Assemble in opposite order to removing.

I usually leave the air filter boxes and air boxes away when initializing the new actuator.
This way also it is possible to see if everything works.



After everything is done,get yourself a beer and call it a day.:cheers:

I would estimate it takes about 3-4h for the first timer.
 

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Great! send it to DIY thread.
 

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+1. Post in DIY thread.
 

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will add. Good DIY (though slightly advanced for the novice).

vantaam5, can you host the pics here rather than imageshack?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
will add. Good DIY (though slightly advanced for the novice).

vantaam5, can you host the pics here rather than imageshack?

This is nothing really for the novice,but a bit mechanical inclined owner.
Am changing on the same car also the Vanos high pressure oil pump,write up follows.


Will try to host the pics here.
 

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Thanks. I am looking forward to your writeup for the vanos pump. Mine is still working fine but I went ahead and brought a spare just in case. Hopefully I dont need to buy any special tool when it is time to change mine out.
 

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Do you need to clear the error data after replacing? The stealer wants to charge me $1,000 for the labor of replacing, I plan to get another merchanic shop to do this for me.
 

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Hmmm, that car looks strangely familiar...
 

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how do you initialize the actuator after install?
My first post on the forum. :) Sorry it's long, but have a lot of detail some will find useful.

@FUDDY - It appears that you don't "have to" initialize the new part. It is more of good practice and fine tunning (anyone correct if I am wrong). I will elaborate more below.

First BMW I have owned (2006 M5 SMG). During my second week of ownership, I was out for lunch on a work day. On my way back to work I stopped to fill up (as it constantly needs to do). I started the car to leave the gas station and a whole bunch of errors appeared in the gauge cluster and in the iDrive screen (dsc malfunction, take off assistant is off, etc). The RPM was limited to 4.5 and the car accelerated extremely slow. I took it down a backroad to determine if it was capable of getting back to my work parking lot as well as tried turning it off and on again to see if the errors would clear. I ended up trying to make it back and omg is it slow. Stopped on an uphill due to traffic light. Once the light was green the Big Rig next to me took off up the hill leaving me in the dust! (It is seriously that slow, like a freight train trying to get moving). Had to pull over to let traffic get past, etc. Back at the parking lot I tried disconnecting the battery and nothing would clear the error. In short, the dealer diagnosed it as the Bank 2 Throttle Actuator has an "internal malfunction" (Note: this is USA driver side). Two more weeks go by and I finally have the car back at home and needing to replace the part (dealer quoted $2121 for parts and labor, cost was half part / half labor).

Removed Throttle actuator from the car and noticed it seemed to bind in one particular spot when rotated by hand. Took actuator apart and cleaned a clay-like material from the gears. Plucked the center gear from inside and rotated it to various positions until everything rotated smoothly. Thinking I may have solved the problem, I lightly pieced the car back together to see if the errors would clear. Bam, Errors gone! (keep reading). I then tightened everything back up and took it for a test drive. All was well. Test drove it the next day. All we well. Wife and I hopped in to go for groceries, started vehicle, and the errors were back. :( Problem was somehow better but now intermittent. I then ordered a new part from the dealer and ordered BMW software on eBay (DIS, TIS, SSS, etc). Part came in and to this day I am still waiting on software which is coming from out of the country.

Impatiently waiting, I decided to go ahead and install the new part to see what happens. My theory was, since it is the same part it should still run just fine without this "initializing step". I figure the "initialize" is just to fine tune, so that the computer knows the start and stop positions of the new piece. Since the new part is so similar, it should be pretty close without initializing. Put the part on and no errors after two test drives. During the test drives my tire pressure light came on. Indeed the passenger rear was 10lbs low. Added some air to the tire and it does it again. Took it to a tire shop and turns out the aluminum wheel is cracked! All the while, to and from the tire shop there weren't any errors. Car is now on jack stands while wheel is off for repair. Owned the car a whole month now, and for the majority of the time it has been out-of-service. :crying:

Note: I timed the new part install and it took about 3hrs 45min to have it all back together. (This is after having done it twice already.)

Below are some pictures of the actual part including internals and part number stickers:







 

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I ended up finding the procedure in DIS and initilized the new part... it's been flawless since I put it in... I also found a place that supposedly fixed the messed up actuators for $80, haven't had time to send it in but it might be worth a shot to have a working spare in the garage

here's the link:

5WK49066 A2C53032056 A2C53046176 13627834494 | Autotek Electronics
 

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Hi,

Thanks for your post regarding the throttle actuator. After having not initialized the new actuator have you been running smoothly since. I dont want to have to buy software etc for no reason. I have all the errors you had and pulled the codes and think I am having the same issue.

Thanks, Tim
 

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I ended up finding the procedure in DIS and initilized the new part... it's been flawless since I put it in... I also found a place that supposedly fixed the messed up actuators for $80, haven't had time to send it in but it might be worth a shot to have a working spare in the garage

here's the link:

5WK49066 A2C53032056 A2C53046176 13627834494 | Autotek Electronics
Fuddy! please pm me or post how you did it ive been stuck in DIS and ISTA in my garage for 2 days now! or you can call me if thats easier!
 
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