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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The clutch is starting to get weak, time to replace it. South Bend stage 3 endurance seems like a good option. The way I understand it, the stock clutch is adequate, but the M5 would be better off with a beefier clutch, so I figured I might as well upgrade it a bit. SB stage 3 endurance looks like a direct fit with the stock flywheel, seems to be streetable, but the biggest reason for getting it is that it does not have a self-adjust mechanism like the stock clutch (SAC feels like a "clutch delay" mechanism to me, but mine's old, maybe it's better on a new unit).

So, I compiled a list of parts to get, please double-check it and see if I forgot anything, post suggestions etc.

1. LuK DMF021 Clutch Flywheel (Would this work with SB clutch or do I need an aftermarket flywheel?)

2. South Bend stage 3 endurance clutch K70282-SS-TZ
DXD Racing K70282-SS-TZ Stage 3 Kevlar Clutch

3. Corteco Transmission Mount x2
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 22-31-6-771-221-M270

4. Clutch Pivot Pin
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 21-51-1-223-328-M744

5. Spring clip for clutch assembly
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 21-51-7-570-284-M9

6. Fork Lever - Clutch Release Bearing
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 21-51-1-223-302-M9

7. Driveshaft Flex Disc (Giubo)
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 26-11-2-228-781-M57

8. Crankshaft Seal, Rear (100 x 125 x 13)
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 11-14-1-710-247-M104

9. Gasket, Rear Crankshaft Seal Housing
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 11-14-1-736-521-M17

OR

Instead of 8 and 9 above, should I get

Rear Crankshaft Seal Kit
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 11-14-1-436-109-M9

10. Throwout Bearing Guide Tube
BMWStyle71 42 - 23111222722 - Throwout Bearing Guide Tube - ES#42197

11. Clutch Release Bearing (Do I need this?)
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 21-51-1-223-582-M38 (Sachs)
or
Search SiteSearch 21511223582 - 21511223582 - Clutch Release/Throw-out Bearing - ES#41219 (BMW)

12. Pilot Bearing 15 X 32 X 10
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 11-21-1-720-310-M296

13. Seal Input Shaft Manual Transmission (35 X 52 X 7 mm) (Do I need this?)
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 23-12-7-501-328-M213

14. Guide Bushing for Drive Shaft (Is this what Raikku called "bearing on the gearbox side in the propshaft"?)
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 26-11-7-526-611-M104

15. Driveshaft Center Mount (aka Center Support Bearing)
Search SiteSearch 26122228917 - 26122228917 - Driveshaft Center Mount - ES#48614

16. Clutch Slave Cylinder 22,2X23MM
Search SiteSearch 21522282055 - 21522282055 - Clutch Slave Cylinder - ES#41452

17. Shift Bushing Superkit (Do I need this? Does it have everything I need?)
Pelican Parts - Product Information: PEL-SKSBE39-03N

It also makes sense to replace the seals in the diff, so I would need:

1. Differential Output Flange Seal x2
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 33-10-7-510-289-M17

2. Differential Input Shaft Seal (aka Differential Pinion Shaft Seal)
Search SiteSearch 33121213949 - 33121213949 - Differential Input Shaft Seal - Priced Each - ES#56246

3. Differential Cover Gasket
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 33-10-8-305-033-M17
 

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The clutch is starting to get weak, time to replace it. South Bend stage 3 endurance seems like a good option. The way I understand it, the stock clutch is adequate, but the M5 would be better off with a beefier clutch, so I figured I might as well upgrade it a bit. SB stage 3 endurance looks like a direct fit with the stock flywheel, seems to be streetable, but the biggest reason for getting it is that it does not have a self-adjust mechanism like the stock clutch (SAC feels like a "clutch delay" mechanism to me, but mine's old, maybe it's better on a new unit).

So, I compiled a list of parts to get, please double-check it and see if I forgot anything, post suggestions etc.

1. LuK DMF021 Clutch Flywheel (Would this work with SB clutch or do I need an aftermarket flywheel?)

2. South Bend stage 3 endurance clutch K70282-SS-TZ
DXD Racing K70282-SS-TZ Stage 3 Kevlar Clutch

3. Corteco Transmission Mount x2
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 22-31-6-771-221-M270

4. Clutch Pivot Pin
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 21-51-1-223-328-M744

5. Spring clip for clutch assembly
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 21-51-7-570-284-M9

6. Fork Lever - Clutch Release Bearing
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 21-51-1-223-302-M9

7. Driveshaft Flex Disc (Giubo)
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 26-11-2-228-781-M57

8. Crankshaft Seal, Rear (100 x 125 x 13)
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 11-14-1-710-247-M104

9. Gasket, Rear Crankshaft Seal Housing
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 11-14-1-736-521-M17

OR

Instead of 8 and 9 above, should I get

Rear Crankshaft Seal Kit
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 11-14-1-436-109-M9

10. Throwout Bearing Guide Tube
BMWStyle71 42 - 23111222722 - Throwout Bearing Guide Tube - ES#42197

11. Clutch Release Bearing (Do I need this?)
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 21-51-1-223-582-M38 (Sachs)
or
Search SiteSearch 21511223582 - 21511223582 - Clutch Release/Throw-out Bearing - ES#41219 (BMW)

12. Pilot Bearing 15 X 32 X 10
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 11-21-1-720-310-M296

13. Seal Input Shaft Manual Transmission (35 X 52 X 7 mm) (Do I need this?)
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 23-12-7-501-328-M213

14. Guide Bushing for Drive Shaft (Is this what Raikku called "bearing on the gearbox side in the propshaft"?)
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 26-11-7-526-611-M104

15. Driveshaft Center Mount (aka Center Support Bearing)
Search SiteSearch 26122228917 - 26122228917 - Driveshaft Center Mount - ES#48614

16. Clutch Slave Cylinder 22,2X23MM
Search SiteSearch 21522282055 - 21522282055 - Clutch Slave Cylinder - ES#41452

17. Shift Bushing Superkit (Do I need this? Does it have everything I need?)
Pelican Parts - Product Information: PEL-SKSBE39-03N

It also makes sense to replace the seals in the diff, so I would need:

1. Differential Output Flange Seal x2
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 33-10-7-510-289-M17

2. Differential Input Shaft Seal (aka Differential Pinion Shaft Seal)
Search SiteSearch 33121213949 - 33121213949 - Differential Input Shaft Seal - Priced Each - ES#56246

3. Differential Cover Gasket
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 33-10-8-305-033-M17

I would say the Southbend Stage III Endurance Kevlar Clutch is a great choice! I've had mine in for a little over 1500 miles and after break in, it's very strong and meaty! I feel it's a very streetable clutch with and OEM feel. Customer service said the pedal would be a lot heavier but I don't feel a difference in pressure. Now the car hauls @$$ like never before! Clutch is so strong I usually get wheelspin everywhere haha. Positive engagement was something I was looking for along with the SAC delete from the stock setup. I replaced the flywheel with OEM as well along with the Rear Main Seal, Clutch pivot pin (metal instead of plastic), Spring clip, Fork Lever.

You don't need an OEM throwout bearing because the Southbend clutch kit comes with a custom bearing along with the plate screws. Good luck and happy shifting :byee55amg
 

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#14 guide bushing is not a bearing, its a small metal sleeve with plastic on the inside that slides onto the transmission's output shaft. It can be a pain to get out but a good torch will help.

You're list looks pretty complete though. I have a different angle for a tip if you like. If dropping the exhaust isn't a nightmare for you (ie. you have easy access to a lift) I'd suggest breaking the job up into two parts. All the driveshaft bits plus clutch and seals, then do the diff at a later date if it's not impending doom right now. This reasoning here is that if you replace every along the driveline and diff at once and then go driving around and hear some funky noises, you won't put yourself in a mental institution chasing down the problem.

Also, remember to remove the crankshaft position sensor from the bell housing (not just unplug) before dropping the trans, and be careful not to tear the red cv boot at the end of the driveshaft when you're pulling it down.

Oh, and beer will help. :cheers:
 

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FWIW, the clutch adjuster is not a delay mechanism. The stock clutch works very well for stock or mildly modified application; some folks use them with superchargers as well.




PLEASE NOTE THAT I DO NOT OWN AN M5 AND THIS POST IS NOT INTENDED TO BE ARROGANT. PLEASE READ THE IMPORTANT REVISED DISCLAIMER THAT APPLIES TO THIS POST
 

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If you are replacing the RMS you don't need the kit or the seal housing. Re-use your old housing, drive out the old seal, drive the new seal in. You will also need the six rubberized washers for the screws that hold that housing in. They are not (really) re-usable. So for RMS replacement you need the seal itself, the six washers, and the gasket for the housing.

As previously mentioned the guide tube/bush is what the release bearing assembly rides on back and fourth as you engage the clutch. It does wear out so a lot of people replace it. When I replaced mine the old one had grooves worn into it after 130K but realistically probably would have been fine to leave as is. The replacement is simple but remember loctite on the 4 bolts that hold it to the trans housing. I also replaced my trans input shaft seal as it was leaking quite obviously and is right behind this guide tube.

I'm going to highly, highly recommend you replace the line to your slave cylinder. It has a rubber section that goes right over the exhaust downtube and with heat and stress it degrades over time. Mine was bubbling out and fell apart in my hands when I removed it. This hose being weak could cause a "delay" feel in the clutch for sure. This hose blowing on you would mean a flatbed home. The job involves some minor disassembly on the interior (it's documented somewhere here, typically called the "clutch line").
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks everyone for the replies.

Hmm, it seems like I can't edit my own posts (because of the quote?).

So, no need for the "Rear Crankshaft Seal Kit".

I should add to the list:

Clutch Line - Clutch Master to Slave Pipe
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 21-52-6-751-171-M9


Not sure where to get the "six rubberized washers for the screws that hold that housing in". It looks like they're a part of the kit, but I couldn't find them sold separately.

As far as the bearing:
I was referring to this post:
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e3...054-clutch-change-diy-pics-2.html#post1723954


Rather Pizza and Vodka:biggrin:
Actually it took only time on both cars because almost every wear item that is there and you can change with the job was done.Like all shifter bushings,support arm bushings,shift linkage joint,bearing on the gearbox side in the propshaft,guibo,propshaft center bearing,rear main sealing,clutch slave cylinder,exhaust mounts,...
Anyone know what that is?
 

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So for RMS replacement you need the seal itself, the six washers, and the gasket for the housing.
By the time you buy all of this, you've basically bought the entire kit. Plus, the kit doesn't cost much more than just the seal anyway. In addition, why take the chance in not getting the seal installed correctly when buying separately. If I were you I would buy the kit.

Also, if you're going to be replacing the input seal on the transmission, you might as well replace the other two seals on it. These are the output seal and the small one for the shifting mechanism.

John
 

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By the time you buy all of this, you've basically bought the entire kit. Plus, the kit doesn't cost much more than just the seal anyway. In addition, why take the chance in not getting the seal installed correctly when buying separately. If I were you I would buy the kit.
On Pelican the kit is 121.00, the seal is 32.00. The washers are cheap and any dealer can get them for you. So, ~40.00 vs. 121.00 is nontrivial IMO.

As for the output and shaft selector seal they aren't dependent on the trans being apart from the engine like the input seal is. There is some overlap but not nearly as much as there is with the front seal labor-wise. I wouldn't add those to the job unless they are leaking.
 
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