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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone,

Has anyone replaced just the rear cv joint on their driveshaft while keeping the rest of the shaft intact? Looks like the joint is sold separately and it looks pretty accessible from underneath the car. Just noticed this weekend that it's pretty loose and now clicks when getting on/off the throttle. Don't feel like springing for a brand new shaft at this point - the joint itself is $141 from Tischer. Anyway, figured I'd ask if it was worth the trouble or not.
 

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I have considered this. I recently had a quote for a ton of work from a local specialist, rod bearings etc etc, one of the items was this joint. The quote was very detailed and broken down by component, see below, half an hour quoted for labour, it must be a straight forward job.

Mike


Labour to Swap Rear Velocity Joint on Propshaft – 0.5 hours
Velocity Joint - £110.64<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
Snap Ring - £2.36<o:p></o:p>
Seal Washer - £2.09<o:p></o:p>
 
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Yes. Theoretically the joint should be knocked off the end of the shaft once its free from the hub.

Once you have the end of the shaft/joint exposed you can simply use a sharp hammer blow to literally knock it off the shaft. Its only held in its initial place by an almost circular snap ring that sits in the driveshaft groove.

Just note that in some extreme cases the joint won't knock off the shaft due to a deformed snap ring but this is very very uncommon and in all honesty you can still even cut the old joint off in sections and not damage the shaft so no worries. But thats not scare mongering, just a very very slim chance heads up.

To fit the new joint simply slide it on the splines but make sure the snap ring is compressed into the groove as much as possible before tapping the joint on. Don't be tempted to smack the joint over the snap ring or you may deform or snap it
 

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Hey everyone,

Has anyone replaced just the rear cv joint on their driveshaft while keeping the rest of the shaft intact? Looks like the joint is sold separately and it looks pretty accessible from underneath the car. Just noticed this weekend that it's pretty loose and now clicks when getting on/off the throttle. Don't feel like springing for a brand new shaft at this point - the joint itself is $141 from Tischer. Anyway, figured I'd ask if it was worth the trouble or not.
I replaced mine last year while diagnosing a drivetrain problem that turned out to be a broken gear tooth in the differential. It was a straight forward operation. Probably easier with the whole driveshaft loose but I don't remember if it is a requirement to drop the exhaust and driveshaft. I think you can do it with the exhaust only lowered, not entirely out because that is how I did mine. Couldn't get it loose from the headers by myself. I have my used CV joint that's got ~20,000 miles on it and is still smooth and in good shape if you are interested for $50 shipped. All you'd need would be parts 15, 19, and maybe 13, and a tube of CV Joint Grease. I think I have some of the snap rings #18 as well. As I remember, it is recommended to replace the nuts (19) and maybe the bolts (13). Let me know if you are interested.

edit.. You'll want the gasket #17 as well
RealOEM.com * BMW E39 M5 DRIVE SHAFT-CEN.BEARING-CONST.VEL.JOINT
 

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Some pics of the CV Joint....

Had a clicking noise and notchiness, at this joint, when rotating the section of Propshaft (Diff in American) from UV Joint to rear diff.

Also did the 3 Diff Mounts.

Phil Crouch did the Propshaft CV Joint and the diff mounts, which involved dropping the diff, which meant removing both driveshafts too (Half Shafts in American), pulling the bushes and pressing in new bushes, in less than 3 hours, but he is an E39 M5 genius of course. CV Joint swap does not require dropping the diff, just the exhaust (and only the rear section if your exhaust setup is as such)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks everyone! gzig - what were your symptoms that ended up being a result of a broken gear? I'd be interested in your CV joint - I'll PM you. Thanks again everyone for the pics and the useful information, really helps.
 

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thanks everyone! gzig - what were your symptoms that ended up being a result of a broken gear? I'd be interested in your CV joint - I'll PM you. Thanks again everyone for the pics and the useful information, really helps.
The whole saga is chronicled here a couple years ago but the short story is that three months after buying the car it started to get a clicking noise from the back end that varied with speed. Sounded like a kid riding a bike with a card in the spokes. Long story short, the diff had two teeth broken off the ring gear. I couldn't determine the problem with static checks, I'd never feel it, so I put in a new CV. When that didn't work I took it to my indy and he pulled the rear cover on the diff to find the extra pieces. While I didn't baby the car, I never launched it hard and I think the previous owner beat on it pretty good from other signs I've uncovered. I'll watch for your PM.
Greg
 

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Some pics of the CV Joint....

Had a clicking noise and notchiness, at this joint, when rotating the section of Propshaft (Diff in American) from UV Joint to rear diff.

Also did the 3 Diff Mounts.

Phil Crouch did the Propshaft CV Joint and the diff mounts, which involved dropping the diff, which meant removing both driveshafts too (Half Shafts in American), pulling the bushes and pressing in new bushes, in less than 3 hours, but he is an E39 M5 genius of course. CV Joint swap does not require dropping the diff, just the exhaust (and only the rear section if your exhaust setup is as such)
Hi, I purchased theCV Joint and plan to change it too.

I have noticed that old CVJ has red/pink rubber boot, like one in you picture.

The new one has black rubber boot. Is this normal?

Also, could you please what gaskets, bolts, nuts one require based on the picture attached?

One item of number 21 will be enough for the the change? Or are 2 tubes required?

Many thanks!
 

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Hi, I purchased theCV Joint and plan to change it too.

I have noticed that old CVJ has red/pink rubber boot, like one in you picture.

The new one has black rubber boot. Is this normal?

Also, could you please what gaskets, bolts, nuts one require based on the picture attached?

One item of number 21 will be enough for the the change? Or are 2 tubes required?

Many thanks!
Hiya,

From memory the pink part is a Gasket : 26111229504 (17 in your picture).

I think I purchased 16 the CV Joint (which includes 13 and 14) also 15, 18 and 17 mentioned above. The rest I left to my specialist Phil Crouch to sort out.

That one packet of grease should suffice.

Cheers
 
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Hiya,

From memory the pink part is a Gasket : 26111229504 (17 in your picture).

I think I purchased 16 the CV Joint (which includes 13 and 14) also 15, 18 and 17 mentioned above. The rest I left to my specialist Phil Crouch to sort out.

That one packet of grease should suffice.

Cheers
many thanks!

ordering it tonight, hopefully will have them ready for the weekend (y)
 

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Another question about the rubber boot. The only fault with my joint is the boot. I have run a number of searches and it looks like the boot is not available separately. Is this correct? Thanks for the detailed information otherwise.
 

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This is something I need to get done sooner than later. I noticed a tear in my CV boot a few months back but have been putting it off. I really need to get it done before things get worse.
 
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