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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
After some consultation with boardmember RDM190, I dove in and changed the evap valve under the airbox today.

Time consuming, but an easy job. Only needed two sockets (8mm and 10mm), one wrench (10mm), a screwdriver, and a pair of pliers. A magnetic bolt grabber and a can of carb cleaner were handy to have on hand. A dab of grease helped get the bottom hose on the barb of the new valve.

Took about 2.5 hours but I was frequently interrupted by guys working on the house.

BTW, if you don't own a speed wrench, get one, even a cheap one, before you do this job, as there are about 40 nuts, all lightly torqued.


Bonus: I found an E12 socket in the valley under the purge valve.

Steve
00 M5
84 911
64 Corvette Coupe 327/365
 

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I've got to get the same job done. How much did you get the part for and can you post a more detailed DIY job please? Thanks alot:cheers:
 

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What were the symptoms?
 

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What were the symptoms?
Well my car feels a little hesitant at times and the acceleration is not smooth. But that may be more the mafs than anything else. The evaporative purge flow valve threw up an SES light a month back and has since went away but i rather replace it now.
 

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I got the E8 code on My peake reader yesterday but reset it drove all day today no E8 Code drove about 200 miles
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My symptom was the E8 code. I would reset it and it would come back in about a week, always when I was idling in traffic.

I bought the part online somewhere (perhaps Arizona Autohaus) for about $65. There are not any gaskets that need to be replaced when you do this job.

Steve
00 M5
 
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