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Ok, so I'm fairly competent, and I seached around the forum quite a bit, but I still have questions, so here it is: Anyone have tips and/or pics on the removal of the M Audio subs from the deck? Thanks in advance!
Removing M Audio subs
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So I may have answered my own question:
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=73955&highlight=remove+subs
Looks like the deck has to come out. Sounds and looks like it is going to be unpleasant. The bmwtips links I have found on deck removal look broken so the search for help continues.
I've done deck removal plenty, and with some cars (like this one) it can be a pain. I guess I'll take pics when I do it and post them on this thread to help the next person down the line. Any tips still appreciated.
Thanks
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=73955&highlight=remove+subs
Looks like the deck has to come out. Sounds and looks like it is going to be unpleasant. The bmwtips links I have found on deck removal look broken so the search for help continues.
I've done deck removal plenty, and with some cars (like this one) it can be a pain. I guess I'll take pics when I do it and post them on this thread to help the next person down the line. Any tips still appreciated.
Thanks
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From memory - it's been a while...pull out the rear seat cushions (pop out)and seat back (pop out). IIR, the seat back has a bolt or two you have to remove (could be wrong). Remove the map light covers and remove the screw holding in the pillar covers. This will aid in pulling out the deck tray, which is the next setp. The subs have screws holding them in plus plastic clips. The clips help the subs stay in place until you are ready to drop them. However, they break easily. Reverse the process and done. Real easy, but it takes some time.
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I'm installing the BSW 12" box I've got coming from a fellow board member, so the M Audio subs have to go. I had already run an amp and installed a box with a single 12" that just barely fit under the OEM subs until I found a BSW-style setup, and it sounded ok, but didn't allow me to fit the OEM trunk mat (the thick black one), and it took up a lot of space. I had thought about replacing the OEM drivers, but I like the performance of the small-enclosure type setups and find it difficult to get a decent free air system to please me.
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Hoping it comes in tomorrow. I got the deck out and everything is ready. I also took the time to reroute my TV Tuner and Sirius antennas. The old box sounds better with the OEM subs out, so I suspect the BSW box will sound strong as well.
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Yes; I fabbed it up from a generic 3" interooler piping kit from Ebay. I was inspired by BadBoyPolar's CAI post. I had to pull off the fascia anyway to fix some ps hoses and replace the liners, etc. so the install was gravy.
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Thanks for the feedback. I didn't see the video there but I did find their install guides. I ended up finding a post here that had it all spelled out (no pics), and then jumped in based on that. I will dig it up again and post it here along with some pics so maybe it can go in an FAQ. Knowing what had to come out and how was key to not breaking anything. I managed to only damage one of the clips on one of the lights, which was an easy fix.
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M-Audio subs
I'm also interested in your 10" M-Audio subs.
Let me know if they're still available.
I'm also interested in your 10" M-Audio subs.
Let me know if they're still available.
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157 Posts
Update - BSW box showed up late Sat. evening: 12" single box (now discontinued. I believe), surprisingly small IMHO. Thanks to Robert (911/M5) for the smooth transaction.
I am completing the mounting and will post pics of the sub/deck removal and installation for the benefit of the forum (and to show off the results).
Now excuse me... I have to go bang on my CD Changer to make it read the cds so I can "test" the system...:M5launch:
I am completing the mounting and will post pics of the sub/deck removal and installation for the benefit of the forum (and to show off the results).
Now excuse me... I have to go bang on my CD Changer to make it read the cds so I can "test" the system...:M5launch:
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At this point I am saving the subs should I need to go back to stock. Should I decide to clean house, I will let those who have inquired know accordingly.
Thanks!
Now you're making me paranoid about the subwoofer setup!
I had heard the M-audio system and mine sounded alot better with more punch and less muddy boom sound, but your mileage may vary. I think the M-audio using the whole trunk as an enclosure really made it muddy.
I hope the box was what you were looking for.
I had heard the M-audio system and mine sounded alot better with more punch and less muddy boom sound, but your mileage may vary. I think the M-audio using the whole trunk as an enclosure really made it muddy.
I hope the box was what you were looking for.
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157 Posts
Installed!
So I found a post that had all the step-by-step to get the deck out. I will come back and edit this post with a link - I have it saved on another machine. I got busy and so the car sat apart for a while until I had time to get it back together. Ahhh, the advantages of lots of indoor workspace. So, I was able to take lots of pics. Here goes:
M Audio Subs:
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Deck Removal:
Step 1: Pull rear seat bottom cushion. It snaps in - here you see the back after both cushions are out. 2nd pic is a closeup of the hook for the bottom cushion there is one on each side in the middle. If this picture wasn't so blurry you could see at the bottom edge of the doorsill where the bottom edge of the upper cushion meets is where the upper cushion attaches. There is a 10mm fastener on each side. Remove these and pull the upper cushion up and out (carefully) - it just has hooks molded into the top and lifting it up will release.
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Step 2: Pull the 3 headrests (just pull up hard - there is no release; legs may come out, but they stick right back in)
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Step 3: Pull the sail panels. Do this by using a plastic pry tool (available for like $5 at Harbor Freight) and lever the ligt assembly out at the top edge prying out and down. They will fall out. Be careful - there are two snaps on the top that retain the light in the sail panel, and they can break. Here you see I had to glue one that had separated a bit.
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Here it is with the sail panel out. You can see the OEM antenna wiring and such.
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Then there are 2x 8mm fasteners holding in the sail panel. Remove and then pull the panel out. Same on both sides.
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Step 4: Remove the deck - remove the mount for the center headrest (4x Torx-27), pop the covers off of the three LATCH child restraint hooks and remove (13mm Bolt); then remove the vents at the base of the window. These come out by prying up on the edge closest to the front of the car and once it is fully released all the way across, pull the vent out and up and hooks in the rear will clear. Then lift the deck up and out towards the front of the car. It will slide down on the seat belts. Do not lean on it or set anything on it as it is not made to support weight.
Here you can see the center headrest support and LATCH hooks:
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Here's one of the vents. The white legs hook at the base of the window.
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And Voila - the deck is out:
![]()
Then 3x10mm fasteners hold each sub in from the top. They are about 2.5" long. Take them out and the subs will release from the bottom. They both plug into a socket mounted on the bottom of the deck in between the subs. They are dual voice coil, so there are 4 wires for each sub.
Installation of the BSW sub was a breeze. Follow their instructions for amp wiring (I had already had an amp in). (Add link to BSW instruction page). The box just hangs with two bolts hung from the deck. Here is the finished result:
![]()
More to come - the wife is on me to get out the door...
So I found a post that had all the step-by-step to get the deck out. I will come back and edit this post with a link - I have it saved on another machine. I got busy and so the car sat apart for a while until I had time to get it back together. Ahhh, the advantages of lots of indoor workspace. So, I was able to take lots of pics. Here goes:
M Audio Subs:
Deck Removal:
Step 1: Pull rear seat bottom cushion. It snaps in - here you see the back after both cushions are out. 2nd pic is a closeup of the hook for the bottom cushion there is one on each side in the middle. If this picture wasn't so blurry you could see at the bottom edge of the doorsill where the bottom edge of the upper cushion meets is where the upper cushion attaches. There is a 10mm fastener on each side. Remove these and pull the upper cushion up and out (carefully) - it just has hooks molded into the top and lifting it up will release.
Step 2: Pull the 3 headrests (just pull up hard - there is no release; legs may come out, but they stick right back in)
Step 3: Pull the sail panels. Do this by using a plastic pry tool (available for like $5 at Harbor Freight) and lever the ligt assembly out at the top edge prying out and down. They will fall out. Be careful - there are two snaps on the top that retain the light in the sail panel, and they can break. Here you see I had to glue one that had separated a bit.
Here it is with the sail panel out. You can see the OEM antenna wiring and such.
Then there are 2x 8mm fasteners holding in the sail panel. Remove and then pull the panel out. Same on both sides.
Step 4: Remove the deck - remove the mount for the center headrest (4x Torx-27), pop the covers off of the three LATCH child restraint hooks and remove (13mm Bolt); then remove the vents at the base of the window. These come out by prying up on the edge closest to the front of the car and once it is fully released all the way across, pull the vent out and up and hooks in the rear will clear. Then lift the deck up and out towards the front of the car. It will slide down on the seat belts. Do not lean on it or set anything on it as it is not made to support weight.
Here you can see the center headrest support and LATCH hooks:
Here's one of the vents. The white legs hook at the base of the window.
And Voila - the deck is out:
Then 3x10mm fasteners hold each sub in from the top. They are about 2.5" long. Take them out and the subs will release from the bottom. They both plug into a socket mounted on the bottom of the deck in between the subs. They are dual voice coil, so there are 4 wires for each sub.
Installation of the BSW sub was a breeze. Follow their instructions for amp wiring (I had already had an amp in). (Add link to BSW instruction page). The box just hangs with two bolts hung from the deck. Here is the finished result:
More to come - the wife is on me to get out the door...
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157 Posts
OEM - got a new set of mats + trunk mat when I bought the car. When I added the other sub, I had to pull it out for clearance, so I'm glad I have the mat back in now. The aesthetics of the trunk with the BSW alone are worth it, IMHO. Plus I use the amp to hold all my supplies in the right side storage area, so my trunk floor is totally open & I can actually get a stroller in there.:halo: Gotta be able to justify the car, after all.
I really like the sound with the M subs out so the trunk is vented to the interior. Now I just need to pin down which amp it sounds best with. This one is running out of guts for me...
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