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Discussion Starter #1
Replaced my rear window trim seal yesterday. The sides and about 1/4 of the top tucked in nicely but the other 3/4 of the top just will not press in all the way like the rest. I partially removed it, started at the corners, and tried again 3 times and this is the best I can do. I finally gave up and left it.

Car was parked outside for 4-5 hours today and I tried pressing it down again when I got home. That seemed to help (got warm-ish in the sun?) but when I came back 20 min later it had popped up again. It almost looks like the bead of sealant between the glass and the sheet metal is too close to the edge of the glass so there's nowhere for the seal to tuck in. The rear glass has never been replaced and the old seal wasn't like this.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make this look better? I will buy another one if I have to, $40 isn't bad. I thought this job was supposed to be easy... :mad:


Good side...
944156

944159

Other side...
944157

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Used this tool to press it in.
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Weird. The good side looks wrong, while the other side looks correct to me. The flap opposite the seal side should go over to the roof, sit flush with it at the roof edge and to create a half loop drainage channel.

It looks like you may not be installing seal in the correct order, since the sides are correct while the top isn't stretched evenly causing lift (starting from end to other end of seal). The top edge needs to be pressed in first then the sides. First, please lay seal around window on top of the edge over the entire window. Do top edge first pressing down in the middle of the crevice. Then sides.

Soap and water will make install much easier. Make sure the window edges and the crevice are clean of dirt, grime and adhesives. Clean and smooth.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah, I did the top first, starting from a corner so that it would be lined up right at the other end. Thoroughly cleaned the grooves beforehand, sprayed soapy water all over it to aid installation.

I didn't take any pictures before so I don't remember what it looked like, but the sides match the top right as far as depth goes. Can anyone post a picture of theirs for comparison?
 

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I too advocate starting at the top and then going down the sides. Also, are you SURE you didn't leave a piece of gunk/old seal in the groove underneath the window edge? From the picks it sorta looks like the seal isn't sliding underneath the edge of the glass, possibly because something is in the way blocking it there.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah, I'm sure there's no debris still in the groove. It seems like it sort of gets under the glass but not all the way? I almost think the sealant is too close to the edge of the glass... but if that were the case then how was the old seal ok? Wondering if anyone else has come across this and if so, how did they correct it. No way I am getting the rear window completely replaced just for this stupid thing...

(blue = glass, black = sealant, gray = trim seal)

Should do this.
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Does this instead?
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The seal on my M5 is actually fairly new, couple of years old. Dirty.

There is also 2 versions of the seal apparently, one for standard glass, BMW-51318159784, and one for protective glazing, BMW-51318172745.

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944178


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Discussion Starter #8
Would you say that the thinner part of the seal is about flush with the top surface of the roof sheet metal? Kind of hard to tell in your pictures. You can see how mine sticks up above the roof just a small bit in some areas, whereas it's actually below the roof on the right side.

I did make sure to get the one that was not for security glass.
 

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Same issue here. Did everything you did roarf. I get everything worked into place where I'm happy with it then usually the next time I go for a drive it pops out on the right side for me. Went round and round with it all last summer and some more this summer. Probably going to have the guy who did my factory front windshield replacement do it next spring. Sadly the car will be going away for winter hibernation soon.
 

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Would you say that the thinner part of the seal is about flush with the top surface of the roof sheet metal? Kind of hard to tell in your pictures. You can see how mine sticks up above the roof just a small bit in some areas, whereas it's actually below the roof on the right side.

I did make sure to get the one that was not for security glass.
Yeah.

That's what I meant when I said the other side photo looks right, while the good side photo looks wrong. The thin flap sits flush with roof, so there's a water channel created by that flap. The good side doesn't look like it'll prevent water from seeping in to where the glass is attached to roof, which may eventually leave water puddles causing damage, or affecting the window mount. The flap channel should divert the water to the sides, but the good side appear to direct the water into the crevice it supposed to cover.

Flap shouldn't go below roof, it needs to cover the channel ( from seal to flap) while seal goes over the window.

If nothing else, perhaps a heat gun could better shape the mould.
 

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It looks like you're just not tucking it deep enough.

The tool you're using is correct, but try pressing down towards the based of the back seat, then tucking BACK towards the trunk. Should fold it under the window a bit better.

I found that using some dishwashing liquid mixed with water made this job messy but a whole lot easier.
 

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^ What he said. Push the seal in pushing the middle downwards toward the ground. A tool thats tip isn't one sides, like maybe a pen might work better.

Yeah, I'm sure there's no debris still in the groove. It seems like it sort of gets under the glass but not all the way? I almost think the sealant is too close to the edge of the glass... but if that were the case then how was the old seal ok? Wondering if anyone else has come across this and if so, how did they correct it. No way I am getting the rear window completely replaced just for this stupid thing...

(blue = glass, black = sealant, gray = trim seal)

Should do this.
View attachment 944175
Does this instead?
View attachment 944176
Oh, and what is this black thing you refer to as sealant? Window mount is independent of the seal.

There should be no remnant seal. The seal is the sealant (gray is the black new seal). The space between glass and body is strictly for the seal.

So, is the black thing just residual bits perhaps ripped off of the old seal still stuck inside the indent preventing the new seal from going into the indent, like as visualized by you? Part of the grime and residuals that may need to be cleaned? Compare the old seal and see if that part that slips inside had been ripped off. It is brittle or turns into black sludge, as we know.

It could also be the flap itself pushing the seal back up, as it's not facing up, rather down and on top of seal, on the good side, which may be the bad side?

944245
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It looks like you're just not tucking it deep enough.

The tool you're using is correct, but try pressing down towards the based of the back seat, then tucking BACK towards the trunk. Should fold it under the window a bit better.

I found that using some dishwashing liquid mixed with water made this job messy but a whole lot easier.
Yep, did everything you said.

Same issue here. Did everything you did roarf. I get everything worked into place where I'm happy with it then usually the next time I go for a drive it pops out on the right side for me. Went round and round with it all last summer and some more this summer. Probably going to have the guy who did my factory front windshield replacement do it next spring. Sadly the car will be going away for winter hibernation soon.
I get the feeling I may be stuck in the same position.

Yeah.

That's what I meant when I said the other side photo looks right, while the good side photo looks wrong. The thin flap sits flush with roof, so there's a water channel created by that flap. The good side doesn't look like it'll prevent water from seeping in to where the glass is attached to roof, which may eventually leave water puddles causing damage, or affecting the window mount. The flap channel should divert the water to the sides, but the good side appear to direct the water into the crevice it supposed to cover.

Flap shouldn't go below roof, it needs to cover the channel ( from seal to flap) while seal goes over the window.

If nothing else, perhaps a heat gun could better shape the mould.
I'd be ok with it sitting flush with the roof but I can hardly even get it to do that. The side that you say is too low is how it naturally installs. I didn't have to use any force installing that side, it just slipped right in. The thin material is long enough to form a channel like you say, even though it is not flush with the roof.

^ What he said. Push the seal in pushing the middle downwards toward the ground. A tool thats tip isn't one sides, like maybe a pen might work better.


Oh, and what is this black thing you refer to as sealant? Window mount is independent of the seal.

There should be no remnant seal. The seal is the sealant (gray is the black new seal). The space between glass and body is strictly for the seal.

So, is the black thing just residual bits perhaps ripped off of the old seal still stuck inside the indent preventing the new seal from going into the indent, like as visualized by you? Part of the grime and residuals that may need to be cleaned? Compare the old seal and see if that part that slips inside had been ripped off. It is brittle or turns into black sludge, as we know.

It could also be the flap itself pushing the seal back up, as it's not facing up, rather down and on top of seal, on the good side, which may be the bad side?
The glass is glued to the body panel, right? That's what I was referring to when I said sealant. That's what actually seals the glass to the car and keeps water out of the interior. The piece that I'm having trouble with doesn't really seal much, it's just a trim piece/finisher. The old one came off in one piece, aside from breaking at the corners, which was the main reason I replaced it. So there are no remnants stuck in the channel. I cleaned it very thoroughly. Unfortunately, I don't have the old seal anymore to compare (threw it out).
 

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Now that I think of it, the way I did my rear one was i started at one top corner and went DOWN - then I stretched it across to the other corner (it will pass over the roof) and located the opposite corner and tucked that from top DOWN (so now both sides are in, and both corners are located in their ideal spot). Then I basically stretched down in the middle to find the mid point along the top glass - and then tucked it from the middle working out towards both corners, little bit on both sides at a time.

You do have to stretch it a bit in the direction you're working as you go. It's a tight fit, which is why the spray lubricant helps.

But I know how frustrating this can be. My e70 does the same thing - top windscreen seal just pops up whenever it feels like. But so long as it's an OEM part, and the rear windscreen has never been replaced - it WILL fit.
 

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Couple things (first, I have done both on my M5 with no issues):
1. use a small mirror to look "under" the glass and be sure there is not so old gasket rubber stuck under there. Obviously, clean it out with a 90 degree pick or other similar tool.
2. To install it, use straight liquid dish soap as the lubricant. Anytime you are trying to slide a rubber item in/on/over steel, glass, plastic, whatever, use the dish soap. As it gets wet, via hose, car wash, rain, whatever, it just washes away.

The front and rear where a 30 minute job each... done.
 

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OP, same issue here. I replaced the rear seals last fall and the result was exactly as you show in your pictures: the passenger side sits flush and looks right, while the driver's side will not properly seat and sticks up. I removed and reinstalled many times, trying different techniques and starting points using waterless wash for lubricant. No dice. I put a 90-degree pick tool in the channel and there's no residual seal. I settled on thinking the seal that I got was slightly torqued and defective. I will buy another one to see if I have better luck. I moved on to other projects and have not revisited it yet. I trimmed some of the flat part of the seal in there now to make the driver's side sit slightly better, but it's still not great. If you get another seal and it fits without issue, I'd love to hear it.
 

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Did anyone use a mallet during the install? I had my back window replaced and they were a little slow, so were still working on it on my return. I can't say much because I was on the other side of the glass. They would push it in by hand then tap/hit it with a mallet. Not smacking it but firnly tapping it, or so it appeared I was in the waiting room they were in the shop so I was not really seeing any details, as in if they had another tool that they were hitting. All I can really say was hammering was involved. It might be the hammering lets the seal vibrate into the slot, I don't know.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
OP, same issue here. I replaced the rear seals last fall and the result was exactly as you show in your pictures: the passenger side sits flush and looks right, while the driver's side will not properly seat and sticks up. I removed and reinstalled many times, trying different techniques and starting points using waterless wash for lubricant. No dice. I put a 90-degree pick tool in the channel and there's no residual seal. I settled on thinking the seal that I got was slightly torqued and defective. I will buy another one to see if I have better luck. I moved on to other projects and have not revisited it yet. I trimmed some of the flat part of the seal in there now to make the driver's side sit slightly better, but it's still not great. If you get another seal and it fits without issue, I'd love to hear it.
Yeah, I'm going to revisit this later...maybe next time I wash the car. Going to have to remove it and start over. Not ideal since the seal appears to have a tiny bead of butyl or similar pre-installed to help seal, which surely is gone now from re-installing multiple times.

Did anyone use a mallet during the install? I had my back window replaced and they were a little slow, so were still working on it on my return. I can't say much because I was on the other side of the glass. They would push it in by hand then tap/hit it with a mallet. Not smacking it but firnly tapping it, or so it appeared I was in the waiting room they were in the shop so I was not really seeing any details, as in if they had another tool that they were hitting. All I can really say was hammering was involved. It might be the hammering lets the seal vibrate into the slot, I don't know.
That sounds like a good way to break the glass...
 
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